ᐅ House Photos Discussion Corner – Share Your Home Pictures!

Holzhäuschen schrieb:

My finger is almost fully healed now (strange that putting your entire body weight on a breaking part of a drywall panel isn’t a good idea. And that when it actually breaks, the finger hits the floor. Nobody could have predicted that 😀).

Off topic: A bit of self-reflection. ;-) Maybe we all watch action movies too often? In those, the human body seems to endure so much and perform amazing feats. That can cause us to lose awareness of our own physical limitations.
I have a favorite move from these films that I practiced a lot (although the practice simply involved lying on the floor in front of a wall, waiting for some kind of reaction from my body). When it didn’t work for me (in the end, I just stayed lying on the floor in front of the wall, hoping my body would somehow climb the wall three or even just two steps, do a backflip, and land on its feet in a fighting stance), I wanted to ask my very athletic husband to try it. But he refused. What he’s good at, though, is casually jumping over stair railings—something I can only do very slowly and stiffly while awkwardly sliding down. 🙂

Pinkiponk schrieb:

Could you please explain that a bit more? Unfortunately, I didn’t understand. In most new builds, I don’t notice any symmetry, just what seems like randomly placed windows in various sizes. I’m probably one of those who doesn’t perceive the difference. ;-) However, I would really like to learn more.

While harmonious symmetry requires a certain sensitivity and cultural understanding (which can only be explained to a limited extent, must be developed, and certainly is not something you can just download as a plugin, especially not in exchange for discount points) and relates more to balancing visual weight (a skill lacking in today’s instant gratification consumers), dogmatic symmetrical design (Symme-tree, super bold, dude what’s up) relies on the mirror-image arrangement of elements: for example, the guest bathroom ends up with a floor-to-ceiling window just because of its axisymmetric twin. The difference is like that between “Goethe” and “fakju Göthe” (or between “Schiller” and “chillen”), or like the difference between a city villa and a pseudo-mansion.

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https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/

Since my video recommendation was not approved elsewhere, I’m posting it here instead. It somehow fits.

On YouTube or the ZDF media library, look for the 37° documentary "This Is Why Our House Construction Was a Nightmare."

It might be interesting for some.

Holzhäuschen schrieb:

Oh @Smialbuddler and @Wickie, many thanks for your encouraging words!
I always try to keep in mind that eventually it will be finished and look really nice.
But inside the house, I still get overwhelmed. I just see everything that still needs to be done, and my mind goes crazy.

During our self-managed renovation, it really helped to list all the remaining tasks and estimate the time required for each (adjusting based on experience when things didn’t fit) and especially to keep track of the sequence. Preferably breaking it down into small steps room by room, not one big task like “drywall on ground and upper floor, sheathing and jointing – a million working hours,” but at most 10 hours per step. This way you can keep track, check off something almost every day, don’t lose sight of the overview, and can even give helpers instructions without having to think about what makes sense to do next.

After we finished the interior renovation three years ago and before hopefully starting a new project around the turn of the year 22/23, we want to complete our house work – also with a potential sale in mind.
We have had some of the materials (EPS boards and brick slips) in storage since early 2021. Due to rising wood prices and delivery times and my wife starting a new business that required much of my support last year, we postponed it.
I was still able to order wood comparatively cheap in March – it will arrive in 2–3 weeks.

So this year the facade will be insulated.
16 cm (6 inches) EPS base insulation up to 80 cm (31 inches) above ground level or 10 cm (4 inches) below the window sill, reinforced and then covered with old brick slips.
Above that, 12 cm (5 inches) mineral wool (nothing else available) with a wooden subframe and base/strip cladding made of larch with Scandinavian window boxes. (I didn’t feel like drawing them all, so they’re missing in the sketch, and I couldn’t find a vertical wood pattern as a texture.)

At the moment, the base is insulated all around once, and at least 25 linear meters / 20 m² (215 ft²) out of the total 35 m² (377 ft²) of brick slips are applied. Joint mortar is on the way.
Downpipes will obviously be replaced as well. The roof is old but that doesn’t matter because the ceiling between floors is insulated and the attic is unheated. So that will probably stay as is, maybe it will be thoroughly cleaned to match the new facade.

Does the base projecting beyond the house wall? If so, how is it protected against rain?

K a t j a schrieb:

Is the base located in front of the house wall? If so, how is it protected from rain?

TLDR: Yes, and sufficiently.

At the moment, the base still protrudes. It’s not raining here right now, but of course, the insulation will be extended further upwards:

The panels extend about 10 cm (4 inches) into the ground on the shown side. There is no basement here, only a foundation. I waterproofed the foundation beforehand. The panels themselves are beveled at the bottom, reinforced, and near the ground also treated with mineral waterproof slurry. Additionally, the flexible adhesive, which replaces plaster, goes down to the foundation. In front of this, a protective mat is placed and filled with gravel as a splash guard.

At the back (an angled bungalow), there is a slight slope and a partial basement, which is already waterproofed and insulated.

On top of the EPS base, an EPDM membrane fixed to the old facade will be installed, followed by the wooden substructure (only 12 of the 16+2 cm [6 inches of 6+0.8 inches]). A metal drip edge will be mounted at the front of the substructure, extending about 2 cm (0.8 inches) beyond the brickwork. Mineral wool insulation will be placed between the substructure, and a breathable membrane will be applied at the front to provide windproofing and protection against driving rain. This membrane will extend down to just before the screw points of the metal drip edge.

In front of this, battens and counter battens will be installed, along with a larch wood cladding at the base. The window sills will also be made of wood and sealed with an EPDM membrane raised at the connection to the window sill, which will be extended several centimeters up along the reveals. Additionally, the window sills will have a groove on the sides in the overlap area with the reveal boards to prevent lateral water runoff.

If I have time and interest, I will create a drawing to illustrate this.