ᐅ Floor plan design shortly before submitting the building permit application
Created on: 2 Oct 2017 23:25
R
R.Hotzenplotz
Hello everyone!
As some users have requested before, I’m now starting a new thread with the current planning of our detached house, which is about to be finalized.
These are the preliminary drawings for the building permit / planning permission application, and I have one last chance to review them and point out any issues.
It still seems to me that there is less than 1.20m (4 feet) of space between the two wardrobes in the dressing room. Or am I seeing this wrong? Apparently, the rooms on the left and right were overlooked and not adjusted accordingly.
Two Velux ceiling spotlights are still planned to illuminate the upper floor hallway.
In the basement, on the right side in the upper room, a window similar to the one on the left basement side is an option.
We still haven’t decided on the T30 fire-rated door to the garage, even though it is shown in the plans. Most likely, for safety reasons and the limited use of the kitchen at the other end of the house, we will eventually forgo it.
User 11ant pointed out that the right window in child’s room 2 is suboptimally positioned. However, this could still be changed after submitting the building permit / planning permission application. Our architect thinks moving the window to the left would negatively affect the house’s exterior appearance. We’ll have to see about that.
As some users have requested before, I’m now starting a new thread with the current planning of our detached house, which is about to be finalized.
These are the preliminary drawings for the building permit / planning permission application, and I have one last chance to review them and point out any issues.
It still seems to me that there is less than 1.20m (4 feet) of space between the two wardrobes in the dressing room. Or am I seeing this wrong? Apparently, the rooms on the left and right were overlooked and not adjusted accordingly.
Two Velux ceiling spotlights are still planned to illuminate the upper floor hallway.
In the basement, on the right side in the upper room, a window similar to the one on the left basement side is an option.
We still haven’t decided on the T30 fire-rated door to the garage, even though it is shown in the plans. Most likely, for safety reasons and the limited use of the kitchen at the other end of the house, we will eventually forgo it.
User 11ant pointed out that the right window in child’s room 2 is suboptimally positioned. However, this could still be changed after submitting the building permit / planning permission application. Our architect thinks moving the window to the left would negatively affect the house’s exterior appearance. We’ll have to see about that.
Bookstar schrieb:
Why wouldn’t you plan your walk-in closet in advance when designing the floor plan? Sometimes it really makes me want to cry…Somehow, yes... You’re spending a fortune on your house, but have you really thought through the layout beforehand? To me, the house planning is starting to sound rushed, like you bought or inherited an existing house cheaply and are now trying to make the best of the rooms you have. Moving things from the walk-in closet to the wardrobe is more of a stopgap solution than a desirable goal.
But now the damage is probably done. Just install the tallest, deepest cabinets you can to maximize storage and avoid having to use the wardrobe. Laundry will have to be folded next door in the bedroom, and maybe you can even fit a chair in there. There’s no space left in the bedroom for laundry chests, right?
R
R.Hotzenplotz7 Aug 2018 11:11Bookstar schrieb:
Why don’t people plan their walk-in closet in advance when designing the floor plan? Sometimes it’s really frustrating..Building a house can be overwhelming at times. I invested so much time, still made mistakes, and didn’t manage to get everything done. It even got to the point where I experienced health problems. I’m probably not alone; I’ve heard that some people have even abandoned their building projects due to the stress.
Initially, two wardrobes were included in the plan, so we didn’t question it further. Now, standing in the shell stage of construction, you can really assess it and start wondering if two wardrobes might simply make the space too cramped.
Personally, I wouldn’t worry about the appearance. Tall cabinets with simple hinged doors, perhaps in white. Good lighting, maybe a light-colored carpet runner. It’s about storage space. If that’s not enough, all the stuff will just end up scattered throughout the house...
I have to admit, I’m smiling a little because the walk-in closet (or the originally planned walk-in closet) was already a topic on page 1 of this long thread. Back then, it was also about the distance between two rows of wardrobes.
In hindsight, the thread title seems quite ironic. It really looks like some attention to detail was missing, even though you seem to have certain expectations. On top of that, the wrong partners were involved who didn’t fully bring out the requirements from the homeowners.
But: one meter (3.3 feet) of space between two rows of wardrobes is not the end of the world. After all, it’s still just one wardrobe.
In hindsight, the thread title seems quite ironic. It really looks like some attention to detail was missing, even though you seem to have certain expectations. On top of that, the wrong partners were involved who didn’t fully bring out the requirements from the homeowners.
But: one meter (3.3 feet) of space between two rows of wardrobes is not the end of the world. After all, it’s still just one wardrobe.
Define—just for yourself, if you like—how much storage space you need in your walk-in closet and what kind. At the latest, the carpenter or the salesperson at the furniture store should get some information about how many shelves and clothes rails are required.
Here’s a brief overview of my approach:
1. Measure how many linear meters of wardrobe space you had in your old wardrobes.
2. Decide whether some items from the old wardrobe should be stored elsewhere or if any “new” items need to be included. For example, bed linens could be moved out of the wardrobe and into a dresser in the bedroom. Seasonal clothes, I didn’t want to keep in the basement for months anymore in the new house, but accessible year-round in the wardrobe. A picnic blanket now finally fits in the hall closet and no longer needs to be stored in the wardrobe—sometimes it makes more sense to store certain things in the hallway closet!
3. Don’t rely on cabinet size alone—measure carefully here as well! For example, I stack my T-shirts. Two stacks fit perfectly on a 75cm (30 inch) wide shelf. If the cabinet section is 1m (39 inch) wide, it doesn’t help if a third stack won’t fit next to the others.
4. Don’t forget to consider height and length. We measured the maximum height of the clothes rail that I can comfortably reach. Below knee-length skirts, there is room for shelves, but that space isn’t available under full-length dresses. Also, think about the spacing between shelves. Clothing stacks shouldn’t get too high, but there should still be some clearance between the top garment and the shelf above.
5. Measure depth! For those who want to fold clothes, wardrobes can create storage with only 40cm (16 inch) depth, optimizing the space between wardrobes at the same time.
I spent a lot of time experimenting with the Pax planner to figure out the best way to fit everything. And of course, you don’t have to buy furniture only from Ikea…
Here’s a brief overview of my approach:
1. Measure how many linear meters of wardrobe space you had in your old wardrobes.
2. Decide whether some items from the old wardrobe should be stored elsewhere or if any “new” items need to be included. For example, bed linens could be moved out of the wardrobe and into a dresser in the bedroom. Seasonal clothes, I didn’t want to keep in the basement for months anymore in the new house, but accessible year-round in the wardrobe. A picnic blanket now finally fits in the hall closet and no longer needs to be stored in the wardrobe—sometimes it makes more sense to store certain things in the hallway closet!
3. Don’t rely on cabinet size alone—measure carefully here as well! For example, I stack my T-shirts. Two stacks fit perfectly on a 75cm (30 inch) wide shelf. If the cabinet section is 1m (39 inch) wide, it doesn’t help if a third stack won’t fit next to the others.
4. Don’t forget to consider height and length. We measured the maximum height of the clothes rail that I can comfortably reach. Below knee-length skirts, there is room for shelves, but that space isn’t available under full-length dresses. Also, think about the spacing between shelves. Clothing stacks shouldn’t get too high, but there should still be some clearance between the top garment and the shelf above.
5. Measure depth! For those who want to fold clothes, wardrobes can create storage with only 40cm (16 inch) depth, optimizing the space between wardrobes at the same time.
I spent a lot of time experimenting with the Pax planner to figure out the best way to fit everything. And of course, you don’t have to buy furniture only from Ikea…
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