ᐅ Floor plan design shortly before submitting the building permit application
Created on: 2 Oct 2017 23:25
R
R.Hotzenplotz
Hello everyone!
As some users have requested before, I’m now starting a new thread with the current planning of our detached house, which is about to be finalized.
These are the preliminary drawings for the building permit / planning permission application, and I have one last chance to review them and point out any issues.
It still seems to me that there is less than 1.20m (4 feet) of space between the two wardrobes in the dressing room. Or am I seeing this wrong? Apparently, the rooms on the left and right were overlooked and not adjusted accordingly.
Two Velux ceiling spotlights are still planned to illuminate the upper floor hallway.
In the basement, on the right side in the upper room, a window similar to the one on the left basement side is an option.
We still haven’t decided on the T30 fire-rated door to the garage, even though it is shown in the plans. Most likely, for safety reasons and the limited use of the kitchen at the other end of the house, we will eventually forgo it.
User 11ant pointed out that the right window in child’s room 2 is suboptimally positioned. However, this could still be changed after submitting the building permit / planning permission application. Our architect thinks moving the window to the left would negatively affect the house’s exterior appearance. We’ll have to see about that.
As some users have requested before, I’m now starting a new thread with the current planning of our detached house, which is about to be finalized.
These are the preliminary drawings for the building permit / planning permission application, and I have one last chance to review them and point out any issues.
It still seems to me that there is less than 1.20m (4 feet) of space between the two wardrobes in the dressing room. Or am I seeing this wrong? Apparently, the rooms on the left and right were overlooked and not adjusted accordingly.
Two Velux ceiling spotlights are still planned to illuminate the upper floor hallway.
In the basement, on the right side in the upper room, a window similar to the one on the left basement side is an option.
We still haven’t decided on the T30 fire-rated door to the garage, even though it is shown in the plans. Most likely, for safety reasons and the limited use of the kitchen at the other end of the house, we will eventually forgo it.
User 11ant pointed out that the right window in child’s room 2 is suboptimally positioned. However, this could still be changed after submitting the building permit / planning permission application. Our architect thinks moving the window to the left would negatively affect the house’s exterior appearance. We’ll have to see about that.
I would also choose the tallest possible Pax wardrobes with hinged doors on both sides – although on one side, I would include a chest of drawers at a comfortable working height, so you can quickly fold, roll, or organize a shirt again or set down the laundry basket. Above the chest of drawers, I would hang a mirror and place a few shelves above that.
Sliding doors are impractical as they require at least two and a half meters of wardrobe width to be effective. This would mean committing to a wardrobe depth on each side. However, I would break away from this limited thinking: for example, a depth of about 65cm (25.5 inches) on one side for the section that is 180cm (71 inches) deep and on the other side for the 120cm (47 inches) deep part; and at the front, for instance, placing dressers on one side and shallower wardrobes on the other.
I might also consider installing sliding doors at the "entrance" area. That way, you won’t regret the visual impact, and behind the doors you can clearly prioritize design less strictly (and in the worst case, even combine wardrobes and dressers from different sources).
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
I might also consider installing sliding doors at the "entrance" area. That way, you won’t regret the visual impact, and behind the doors you can clearly prioritize design less strictly (and in the worst case, even combine wardrobes and dressers from different sources).
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
R.Hotzenplotz schrieb:
You mean an open system? Doesn’t that get all your clothes covered in dust?I have lived for years with walk-in closets of various sizes and never had this problem (a dressing room is basically the same concept). Where would all the dust even come from? You’re not living in that room or ironing there either. There are no radiators that would stir up whatever little dust there is. Just vacuum regularly, and it’s fine. Clothing you haven’t worn for years, you probably don’t need anyway.J
j.bautsch6 Aug 2018 08:20I am also a fan of clothes in dressers (there isn’t much that needs to be hung). We are planning to have a Pax wardrobe as tall as possible with hinged doors on one side, and on the other side, for example, the 6-drawer Malm dressers (they are only 48cm (19 inches) deep and provide some space; for items that don’t need to be hung, you simply don’t need the extra 12cm (5 inches) of depth). As Fummelbrett mentioned, it is very practical to also have something where you can place or lay things on. For the wardrobe, consider installing one or two doors with mirrors.
Above the dresser, you could hang a nice picture.
Above the dresser, you could hang a nice picture.
Since I set up my walk-in closet, I have switched to hanging everything possible. This especially includes T-shirts, blouses, cardigans, and so on. For trousers, I use the pull-out trouser rack from Pax. I didn’t want to have multiple T-shirts stacked on top of each other, having to dig out the one at the bottom, but rather wanted direct access to each T-shirt. Also, hanging preserves the shape if you take the trouble. When folded, creases are inevitable.
Therefore, I have a total of 275 cm (108 inches) of Pax units, consisting of
Therefore, I have a total of 275 cm (108 inches) of Pax units, consisting of
- 1 m (39 inches) with 2 hanging rods,
- 1 m (39 inches) with 1 hanging rod, 2 drawers for underwear/socks, and 2 plastic bins with lids for sweaters,
- 75 cm (30 inches) with 1 hanging rod and 1 pull-out trouser rack,
- above that a shelf. Such a shelf could also be mounted on sliding rails to create a fold-out surface.
- Additionally, an old 50 cm (20 inches) wide Pax wardrobe that I use for hanging long items like coats, dresses, etc.,
- and 1 Billy shelf unit for bed linens, etc.
- Everything is without doors except for the old 50 cm (20 inches) wardrobe, which does have a door.
- Instead of doors, I simply have a sliding curtain in front of the closet niche, so I don’t have to look into a dark doorway.
- Dust is really minimal, and if something ever gets dusty, it’s a sign that the item probably isn’t needed anymore because it isn’t worn often enough.
Personally, 1 meter (3.3 feet) would feel too cramped for me – I don’t like having to jump into my socks between two such "walls." If the space requirement is almost met with one tall cabinet, I would place only a sideboard for the socks on the other side, with a mirror hung on the wall above it.
If the space ends up being tight for clothes, I would probably go for two cabinets with a depth of 50 centimeters (20 inches) each, so there would be at least 1.20 meters (4 feet) between the cabinets. You can definitely tell the difference. Another option could be one side with 60 centimeters (24 inches) and the other with only 40 centimeters (16 inches), and so on.
If the space ends up being tight for clothes, I would probably go for two cabinets with a depth of 50 centimeters (20 inches) each, so there would be at least 1.20 meters (4 feet) between the cabinets. You can definitely tell the difference. Another option could be one side with 60 centimeters (24 inches) and the other with only 40 centimeters (16 inches), and so on.
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