ᐅ Floor plan design shortly before submitting the building permit application
Created on: 2 Oct 2017 23:25
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R.Hotzenplotz
Hello everyone!
As some users have requested before, I’m now starting a new thread with the current planning of our detached house, which is about to be finalized.
These are the preliminary drawings for the building permit / planning permission application, and I have one last chance to review them and point out any issues.
It still seems to me that there is less than 1.20m (4 feet) of space between the two wardrobes in the dressing room. Or am I seeing this wrong? Apparently, the rooms on the left and right were overlooked and not adjusted accordingly.
Two Velux ceiling spotlights are still planned to illuminate the upper floor hallway.
In the basement, on the right side in the upper room, a window similar to the one on the left basement side is an option.
We still haven’t decided on the T30 fire-rated door to the garage, even though it is shown in the plans. Most likely, for safety reasons and the limited use of the kitchen at the other end of the house, we will eventually forgo it.
User 11ant pointed out that the right window in child’s room 2 is suboptimally positioned. However, this could still be changed after submitting the building permit / planning permission application. Our architect thinks moving the window to the left would negatively affect the house’s exterior appearance. We’ll have to see about that.
As some users have requested before, I’m now starting a new thread with the current planning of our detached house, which is about to be finalized.
These are the preliminary drawings for the building permit / planning permission application, and I have one last chance to review them and point out any issues.
It still seems to me that there is less than 1.20m (4 feet) of space between the two wardrobes in the dressing room. Or am I seeing this wrong? Apparently, the rooms on the left and right were overlooked and not adjusted accordingly.
Two Velux ceiling spotlights are still planned to illuminate the upper floor hallway.
In the basement, on the right side in the upper room, a window similar to the one on the left basement side is an option.
We still haven’t decided on the T30 fire-rated door to the garage, even though it is shown in the plans. Most likely, for safety reasons and the limited use of the kitchen at the other end of the house, we will eventually forgo it.
User 11ant pointed out that the right window in child’s room 2 is suboptimally positioned. However, this could still be changed after submitting the building permit / planning permission application. Our architect thinks moving the window to the left would negatively affect the house’s exterior appearance. We’ll have to see about that.
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R.Hotzenplotz25 Sep 2018 11:26haydee schrieb:
He is contradicting himself. Does he even know where the water came in, or is he just guessing it’s always the roof?No idea. I’m waiting for feedback from the expert.
The general idea was that the roof couldn’t be finished there because of the windows.
Then there was a discussion between the site manager and the electrician, where the electrician said someone needed to explain why a garage door can only be adjusted after the outlet has been installed. He had never heard that in all his years. Any door can be adjusted manually. The site manager said that’s just how they do it.
R.Hotzenplotz schrieb:
No idea. I’m waiting for feedback from the expert.
It was roughly said that the roof can’t be finished there yet because of the windows.
Then there was a discussion between the construction manager and the electrician, where the electrician said he needed an explanation as to why a garage door can only be adjusted after the outlet has been installed. He said he had never heard that in all those years. Any door can be adjusted manually. The construction manager said that’s just how they do it. You can only roughly adjust it manually; the door needs a learning run, but that should definitely be possible with an extension cable.
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Traumfaenger25 Sep 2018 20:38R.Hotzenplotz schrieb:
Then there was a discussion between the construction manager and the electrician, where the electrician said he needed someone to explain why a garage door can only be adjusted after the outlet has been installed. He said he had never heard that before in all his years. Any door can be adjusted manually. The construction manager replied that’s just how they do it.I don’t really get that either, but maybe I simply didn’t understand exactly what they wanted to adjust? Obviously, programming a motorized door to a limit switch makes sense only when powered. But in our case, the drive unit and power were deliberately not connected on our doors so that the door can be opened manually when any tradespeople need to pass through. Also, so remote controls don’t get lost among the constantly changing crews and workers … and so the drive isn’t damaged if someone without a remote tries to open it manually.
But I guess every construction manager has their own approach. In any case, our door is “set” to open and close smoothly and quietly, with a mechanical stop, and so on. The only thing missing is the electrical connection. So I can understand your electrician’s point.
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R.Hotzenplotz26 Sep 2018 19:35We had the blower door test today. It took a total of five hours until the leaks were reduced enough for us to reach 1.3.
Drywall work had to be dismantled again, countless spots on the vapor barrier had to be corrected, and so on... but I think it was very beneficial that I was there.
What really surprised me was that the drywall installer sealed an unplastered area, which of course ended up allowing air to pass through.
Drywall work had to be dismantled again, countless spots on the vapor barrier had to be corrected, and so on... but I think it was very beneficial that I was there.
What really surprised me was that the drywall installer sealed an unplastered area, which of course ended up allowing air to pass through.
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