ᐅ Floor plan design shortly before submitting the building permit application
Created on: 2 Oct 2017 23:25
R
R.Hotzenplotz
Hello everyone!
As some users have requested before, I’m now starting a new thread with the current planning of our detached house, which is about to be finalized.
These are the preliminary drawings for the building permit / planning permission application, and I have one last chance to review them and point out any issues.
It still seems to me that there is less than 1.20m (4 feet) of space between the two wardrobes in the dressing room. Or am I seeing this wrong? Apparently, the rooms on the left and right were overlooked and not adjusted accordingly.
Two Velux ceiling spotlights are still planned to illuminate the upper floor hallway.
In the basement, on the right side in the upper room, a window similar to the one on the left basement side is an option.
We still haven’t decided on the T30 fire-rated door to the garage, even though it is shown in the plans. Most likely, for safety reasons and the limited use of the kitchen at the other end of the house, we will eventually forgo it.
User 11ant pointed out that the right window in child’s room 2 is suboptimally positioned. However, this could still be changed after submitting the building permit / planning permission application. Our architect thinks moving the window to the left would negatively affect the house’s exterior appearance. We’ll have to see about that.
As some users have requested before, I’m now starting a new thread with the current planning of our detached house, which is about to be finalized.
These are the preliminary drawings for the building permit / planning permission application, and I have one last chance to review them and point out any issues.
It still seems to me that there is less than 1.20m (4 feet) of space between the two wardrobes in the dressing room. Or am I seeing this wrong? Apparently, the rooms on the left and right were overlooked and not adjusted accordingly.
Two Velux ceiling spotlights are still planned to illuminate the upper floor hallway.
In the basement, on the right side in the upper room, a window similar to the one on the left basement side is an option.
We still haven’t decided on the T30 fire-rated door to the garage, even though it is shown in the plans. Most likely, for safety reasons and the limited use of the kitchen at the other end of the house, we will eventually forgo it.
User 11ant pointed out that the right window in child’s room 2 is suboptimally positioned. However, this could still be changed after submitting the building permit / planning permission application. Our architect thinks moving the window to the left would negatively affect the house’s exterior appearance. We’ll have to see about that.
R.Hotzenplotz schrieb:
That’s the entire legend.However, I’m still missing the reference point here—which apparently is the cause of the problem.
For example, in our case it said:
"THE SPECIFIED PARAPET HEIGHTS ARE REFERRED TO THE TOP OF THE RAW FLOOR SLAB AND TOP OF THE WINDOW SILL
THE SPECIFIED INTERIOR DOOR HEIGHTS ARE REFERRED TO THE TOP OF THE ROUGH FLOOR OR SILL
WINDOW REVEAL ON THE GROUND FLOOR AND ATTIC = 5 cm (2 inches)."
In sectional drawings, you can also see the installation heights and dimensioned positions of the windows.
R.Hotzenplotz schrieb:
A floor structure of 30cm (12 inches) is planned for the roof terrace. Therefore, the test this morning with the gap of 16cm (6 inches) was completely pointless.Be careful, this also results in a step of 14cm (5.5 inches) from the interior floor screed (+16cm (6 inches) or expanded polystyrene simulation as shown in the photo) to the terrace covering — with the bottom of the patio door frame in between?
Is this intentional? Nowadays, flush or level floors are generally considered standard practice.
R
R.Hotzenplotz12 Jun 2018 15:55Otus11 schrieb:
Is that what’s wanted?
Nowadays, a flush threshold is more state of the art.They always told me that a threshold was necessary, and the inspector didn’t say otherwise during the contract review. I don’t think it helps me to criticize that now. Even if the threshold could be removed, it would actually make it harder to get through the door. And I guess I have to let go of the idea that I can get all the windows replaced at no or minimal cost.
Here is the cross-section:
Otus11 schrieb:
Be careful, this results in a step from the inside to the outside of 14 cm (5.5 inches) from the screed (+16 cm (6.3 inches) or the Styrofoam simulation according to the photo) to the DT covering – with the window door frame at the bottom in between?
Is that what you want?
Nowadays, flush thresholds are more standard. How do you want to manage this without a threshold if there is a living space under the roof terrace?
The ceiling above the living area needs to be insulated. Usually, this insulation is about as thick as the screed inside the house. On top of that, you can add another 8–10 cm (3–4 inches) of covering including the substructure.
So I don’t see this as too problematic. Honestly, the "small door" would bother me much more...
If I remember correctly, I already criticized back then why a lintel is installed above the roller shutter box. In our case and all of our neighbors’, the boxes were placed directly beneath the ceiling of the floor above.
R.Hotzenplotz schrieb:
Here is the section:And it isn’t dimensioned there... (so it’s not immediately clear!).
Have you tried measuring the plan using a ruler and scale? At first, I thought the floor-to-ceiling window was drawn larger; however, the 162.5cm (64 inches) dimension on the right seems proportionate compared to the 184cm (72 inches) passage height (unfortunately). Better to double-check on the 1:100 paper plan.
By the way:
Is a 90cm (35 inches) railing height sufficient for your 1.89m (6 ft 2 in) tall body when you have a small child? The building code in North Rhine-Westphalia (NRW) sets a minimum height of 90cm (35 inches), but most other federal states specify a minimum height of 100cm (39 inches) in their building regulations. So it’s not a deficiency, but personally, I find 100cm (39 inches) to feel safer.
R
R.Hotzenplotz12 Jun 2018 17:20Otus11 schrieb:
Is a 90cm (35 inch) railing height enough for you at 1.89m (6 ft 2 in) tall? With a small child?I could probably have that changed for an additional cost; sounds reasonable. What do the other users think?
Otus11 schrieb:
Have you already measured the plan with a ruler and scale?No. What exactly would you like to know? I can only do that tonight around 11 pm.
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