ᐅ Floor plan design shortly before submitting the building permit application
Created on: 2 Oct 2017 23:25
R
R.Hotzenplotz
Hello everyone!
As some users have requested before, I’m now starting a new thread with the current planning of our detached house, which is about to be finalized.
These are the preliminary drawings for the building permit / planning permission application, and I have one last chance to review them and point out any issues.
It still seems to me that there is less than 1.20m (4 feet) of space between the two wardrobes in the dressing room. Or am I seeing this wrong? Apparently, the rooms on the left and right were overlooked and not adjusted accordingly.
Two Velux ceiling spotlights are still planned to illuminate the upper floor hallway.
In the basement, on the right side in the upper room, a window similar to the one on the left basement side is an option.
We still haven’t decided on the T30 fire-rated door to the garage, even though it is shown in the plans. Most likely, for safety reasons and the limited use of the kitchen at the other end of the house, we will eventually forgo it.
User 11ant pointed out that the right window in child’s room 2 is suboptimally positioned. However, this could still be changed after submitting the building permit / planning permission application. Our architect thinks moving the window to the left would negatively affect the house’s exterior appearance. We’ll have to see about that.
As some users have requested before, I’m now starting a new thread with the current planning of our detached house, which is about to be finalized.
These are the preliminary drawings for the building permit / planning permission application, and I have one last chance to review them and point out any issues.
It still seems to me that there is less than 1.20m (4 feet) of space between the two wardrobes in the dressing room. Or am I seeing this wrong? Apparently, the rooms on the left and right were overlooked and not adjusted accordingly.
Two Velux ceiling spotlights are still planned to illuminate the upper floor hallway.
In the basement, on the right side in the upper room, a window similar to the one on the left basement side is an option.
We still haven’t decided on the T30 fire-rated door to the garage, even though it is shown in the plans. Most likely, for safety reasons and the limited use of the kitchen at the other end of the house, we will eventually forgo it.
User 11ant pointed out that the right window in child’s room 2 is suboptimally positioned. However, this could still be changed after submitting the building permit / planning permission application. Our architect thinks moving the window to the left would negatively affect the house’s exterior appearance. We’ll have to see about that.
I’m curious about this as well. Simply covering holes in the vapor barrier behind the shower with tape brings to mind pictures of mold. By the way, our expert inspector came by specifically before the vapor barrier was covered up. He checked both the installation and the materials used.
Although we have a passive house—which is why there were two measurements—both the architect and the blower door test operator independently stated that the interior finishing hardly seals anything, and that not much can be done afterward.
If the window isn’t airtight, a bit of drywall with paint or wallpaper won’t fix it.
The result was below 1.5, and with that, your general contractor is off the hook.
Although we have a passive house—which is why there were two measurements—both the architect and the blower door test operator independently stated that the interior finishing hardly seals anything, and that not much can be done afterward.
If the window isn’t airtight, a bit of drywall with paint or wallpaper won’t fix it.
The result was below 1.5, and with that, your general contractor is off the hook.
Is the shower located on an exterior wall?
The waterproofing should be part of the thermal envelope, right? Do you have any water pipes or similar that penetrate it?
Before the screed and interior work, during the shell construction, we still had a value of 0.52, and we are not building a passive house or anything like that. The construction manager was pleased.
The waterproofing should be part of the thermal envelope, right? Do you have any water pipes or similar that penetrate it?
Before the screed and interior work, during the shell construction, we still had a value of 0.52, and we are not building a passive house or anything like that. The construction manager was pleased.
What does the blower door test have to do with the ventilation ducts of the controlled residential ventilation system? In our case, the ducts leading outside were sealed with inflatable plugs; otherwise, the controlled residential ventilation system does not have any connection to the outside. We had a result of 0.8, which the tester considered completely acceptable for a house built according to the energy saving ordinance.
Best regards,
Sabine
Best regards,
Sabine
Here it is again... the common thread in your build...
So, the guy doing the blower door test says it’s not that bad—well, hats off to him. But for a new build, even under just the energy saving regulations, I don’t think those are good results. Around here, including at our place, the tests are always done before the interior work starts—so you can still access everything if there really is an issue.
And when I hear about huge holes being covered up with tape, honestly, that gives me a really uneasy feeling—especially combined with all the other issues that have come up.
I’m really keeping my fingers crossed that everything turns out fine.
For example, we had a blower door result of 0.43 just with the construction door, a board in front of the other exterior door, and no screed—meaning the house was already airtight even without the interior finishing.
So, the guy doing the blower door test says it’s not that bad—well, hats off to him. But for a new build, even under just the energy saving regulations, I don’t think those are good results. Around here, including at our place, the tests are always done before the interior work starts—so you can still access everything if there really is an issue.
And when I hear about huge holes being covered up with tape, honestly, that gives me a really uneasy feeling—especially combined with all the other issues that have come up.
I’m really keeping my fingers crossed that everything turns out fine.
For example, we had a blower door result of 0.43 just with the construction door, a board in front of the other exterior door, and no screed—meaning the house was already airtight even without the interior finishing.
It really gives you goosebumps to read about what is being temporarily sealed with tape and so on here. Or how things are quickly patched up just to achieve a slightly better short-term rating that is still far from acceptable.
Will all this hold up over time? (Risk of mold, etc.) Yikes.
Eventually, this will end up on shows like "The Building Rescuers" or "Construction Fails – Families in Distress."
Will all this hold up over time? (Risk of mold, etc.) Yikes.
Eventually, this will end up on shows like "The Building Rescuers" or "Construction Fails – Families in Distress."
R
R.Hotzenplotz27 Sep 2018 13:00I sent the photos to the expert. He told me that this looks far from professional and that he will write something about it.
He also said that the construction manager's statement is nonsense—that the painter is supposed to seal the area between the window sill and the window. This is clearly the general contractor's responsibility.
He also said that the construction manager's statement is nonsense—that the painter is supposed to seal the area between the window sill and the window. This is clearly the general contractor's responsibility.
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