ᐅ Floor Plan Optimization for Urban Villa + Considerations for Land Elevation
Created on: 31 Jan 2020 13:29
S
Shiny86
Plot size 492 sqm (5293 sq ft)
Slope yes
Site coverage ratio?
Floor area ratio?
Building envelope, building line, and boundary?
Boundary development?
Number of parking spaces 2
Number of floors 2
Roof type Pyramid roof, 25 degrees
Architectural style Modern urban villa
Orientation Main entrance facing north
Maximum heights/limits
Additional requirements?
Clients’ Requirements
Style, roof type, building type
Modern urban villa with pyramid roof, 25 degrees
Basement, floors 2 full floors without basement
Number of occupants 4
Open kitchen, kitchen island
Number of parking spaces 8-10
Garage
House design
Who designed it?
-Architect
What do you particularly like? Why?
Large living area, master bathroom
What don’t you like? Why?
Utility room quite small and master bedroom small, children’s room somewhat too large
Why is the design as it is now?
The architect implemented the corresponding wishes
What do you think is especially good or bad about it?
Good: large living area
I am uncertain about the half-height window sizes and the swing direction of the doors
What is the most important/basic question about the floor plan summarized in 130 characters?
What do you think about the floor plans?
Slope yes
Site coverage ratio?
Floor area ratio?
Building envelope, building line, and boundary?
Boundary development?
Number of parking spaces 2
Number of floors 2
Roof type Pyramid roof, 25 degrees
Architectural style Modern urban villa
Orientation Main entrance facing north
Maximum heights/limits
Additional requirements?
Clients’ Requirements
Style, roof type, building type
Modern urban villa with pyramid roof, 25 degrees
Basement, floors 2 full floors without basement
Number of occupants 4
Open kitchen, kitchen island
Number of parking spaces 8-10
Garage
House design
Who designed it?
-Architect
What do you particularly like? Why?
Large living area, master bathroom
What don’t you like? Why?
Utility room quite small and master bedroom small, children’s room somewhat too large
Why is the design as it is now?
The architect implemented the corresponding wishes
What do you think is especially good or bad about it?
Good: large living area
I am uncertain about the half-height window sizes and the swing direction of the doors
What is the most important/basic question about the floor plan summarized in 130 characters?
- Where could it still be optimized? Would you recommend different window dimensions or sill heights?
- What do you think is poor or what would you do differently?
- A partition wall will be added in the walk-in closet. That would theoretically allow watching TV from the bed. I am considering a lightweight wall. I plan to place a 211cm (83 inches) Pax combination wardrobe in the closet. The closet is planned with a raw width of 218cm (86 inches). Do you think 218cm is enough for the Pax once the walls are plastered, or how wide should the rough dimensions preferably be?
- Is the hallway on the ground floor too narrow?
- Would you raise the ground level? The house would be 40cm (16 inches) below street level. If I build a terrace into the garden, it would be about 1m (3 ft) difference. You could raise only the house level, resulting in approximately 1.6m (5 ft) difference between terrace and garden. I don’t know anyone living below street level. Raising the garden would probably not be allowed without permits, and affected neighbors likely wouldn’t agree. On the sides of the house adjacent to neighbors, raising is permitted only up to certain limits. I am overwhelmed with the decision.
- Do you have any ideas for arranging the sofa differently and placing the TV sensibly? My husband doesn’t want the sofa back facing a window. I still need to get used to placing the sofa in the middle of the room.
- Is the kitchen size sufficient for a nice kitchen with an island?
What do you think about the floor plans?
Shiny86 schrieb:
He thinks it doesn’t make sense to slow me down when I’m fully in motion. I’m also the type to visit the kitchen designer 15 times anyway. I’m telling you, you’re still going full speed. And I don’t see you visiting the kitchen studio 15 times, but rather 22 times.
Shiny86 schrieb:
Do you think a double-leaf 1.2m (4 feet) door can look good, or do people usually only use double doors in larger rooms? Or perhaps only in more formal rooms like the dining room? A double-leaf door doesn’t necessarily mean you can only unload the dishwasher in an evening dress. But with a width of 1.2m (4 feet) split symmetrically, you’d need to open both leaves to pass through—unless you’re as slim as I suspect you are given your perfectionism.
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
opalau schrieb:
We have built both a wardrobe and children’s room and office cabinets using IKEA Metod. In my opinion, it’s the most flexible system if you can do without sliding doors.Why is it the most flexible system?
I’m not familiar with Metod.
I’ve read that Platsa is suitable for high ceilings. I’m not exactly sure what that means, but it sounds good if the cabinets are a bit taller, as it looks better when there isn’t much space between the ceiling and the cabinet.
80+80+60 cm (31.5+31.5+24 inches) sounds good.
What are the size increments with Metod?
I definitely want a clothes rail. I’ll also add a few hooks on the wall for light jackets. So a depth of 55 cm (22 inches) would be ideal. What do people usually use at the rough construction stage? I want the cabinet with doors. I don’t need sliding doors at all. Regular cabinet doors are enough. I also don’t want the cabinet to be recessed too much into the niche. I’m not sure how much clearance to allow for installation. How do you calculate that?
2 cm (0.8 inches) for plaster + 2 cm (0.8 inches) clearance before placing the cabinet + 55 cm (22 inches) cabinet body + 2 cm (0.8 inches) door?
= 61 cm (24 inches)
How much clearance should you allow in case the builders are not exact to the centimeter?
Shiny86 schrieb:
2cm plaster + 2cm air gap before the cabinet is installed + 55cm carcass + 2cm door?
= 61 cm (24 inches)
How much tolerance should be allowed if the tradespeople don’t work with centimeter precision? The "plaster" refers to the wall finish, and the tradespeople not only lack centimeter-level accuracy but also aren’t as precise with vertical alignment as a watchmaker. A thumb's width is not just a big leap in tolerance but also the typical expected deviation from vertical on a cabinet or even the height of a room.
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
Shiny86 schrieb:
Why is it the most flexible system?
I’m not familiar with Metod.Metod is Ikea’s kitchen cabinet system. It’s not as flexible as some other kitchen manufacturers, but still more versatile than any other option Ikea offers, as far as I know. Cabinet widths are available in 40, 60, and 80 cm (16, 24, and 31.5 inches), and heights can be combined from 40 to 240 cm (16 to 94.5 inches). The shallow cabinets are great for storing binders and work well in children's rooms for toys and clothes.
Attached are photos of wardrobes, children's room, and home office cabinets, all about 90% complete, all Ikea Metod.
11ant schrieb:
The "spachtel" is called plaster, and the craftsmen don’t work with centimeter-level precision, nor are they as meticulous about perfect vertical alignment as a watchmaker. A thumb’s width is not only the typical tolerance jump but also the expected deviation from plumb over the height of a cabinet or even an entire room. How many centimeters would you allow for the shell construction to accommodate the desired 55cm (22 inches) deep cabinet carcass?
@opalau looks good!
11ant schrieb:
But a width of 120 means it’s symmetrically divided, with both wings opening for each passage – unless you are as extremely slim as I suspect you are, given your perfectionism. No, that’s not what I want. I prefer it more like kaho described: 90 + 30. What is that called? That’s still 1.2m (4 feet) wide, right?
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