S
Sektionschef12 Jul 2013 11:52Hello
I have the following question on my mind:
In my kitchen planning, I have a side table next to the dishwasher, and below it, there is supposed to be a base cabinet with drawers installed turned around, so the drawers open to the front, see the picture:
If I remove the side table in the Ikea planner and look at the transition between the dishwasher and the turned base cabinet, the planner does not show a clean transition but rather forms an edge, see the next picture:
I understand that it is generally common to install a base cabinet turned like this, right?
What can I do to achieve a smooth transition with this arrangement?
How does the plinth / toe kick work in this case? The left side of the turned base cabinet has no plinth / toe kick on the side, correct?
On the left side of the turned base cabinet, I have, of course, specified a cover panel. Do I actually need a filler strip on the right side to prevent the drawers from hitting the wall when opened?
But that would make the edge at the transition even bigger...
By the way, in the picture, the drawers would not fully open because they would hit the door frame of the balcony door.
That is not a problem in reality because our door is recessed in a small alcove, so the door frame does not protrude into the room.
Best regards
Sektionschef
I have the following question on my mind:
In my kitchen planning, I have a side table next to the dishwasher, and below it, there is supposed to be a base cabinet with drawers installed turned around, so the drawers open to the front, see the picture:
If I remove the side table in the Ikea planner and look at the transition between the dishwasher and the turned base cabinet, the planner does not show a clean transition but rather forms an edge, see the next picture:
I understand that it is generally common to install a base cabinet turned like this, right?
What can I do to achieve a smooth transition with this arrangement?
How does the plinth / toe kick work in this case? The left side of the turned base cabinet has no plinth / toe kick on the side, correct?
On the left side of the turned base cabinet, I have, of course, specified a cover panel. Do I actually need a filler strip on the right side to prevent the drawers from hitting the wall when opened?
But that would make the edge at the transition even bigger...
By the way, in the picture, the drawers would not fully open because they would hit the door frame of the balcony door.
That is not a problem in reality because our door is recessed in a small alcove, so the door frame does not protrude into the room.
Best regards
Sektionschef
N
Nayla_106812 Jul 2013 20:20Hi,
Once again, there is a display error from the planner. The grain direction of the countertop always follows the cabinet. So if you rotate the cabinet, as in your case, the countertop rotates with it. In real life, of course, this makes no sense.
I would not recommend rotating the drawer cabinet, unless you actually want to install a bar countertop. The cabinet itself is 59.8cm (23.5 inches) wide, with each side panel about 1.3cm (0.5 inches) thick. As soon as you put a side panel on the rotated cabinet, you end up with an offset that just looks awkward and eventually even creates an overhang, which with the 2 side panels, will be deeper than the countertop. You should also plan for a filler panel or at least a side panel facing the wall so the drawers don’t scrape against the wall when opened. Since the cabinet’s back panel faces the dishwasher, you have no way to properly secure it against tipping. The only option is to secure it through the side panel to the wall. If you include a filler panel, there will be a gap between the wall and the cabinet that needs to be properly supported and screwed in.
The solution would be to use only a 50cm (20 inches) base cabinet. Install a side panel on the left, a filler strip on the right, and align it with the dishwasher. This way, you can simply continue the toe kick without having to cut anything.
Best regards
Nayla
Once again, there is a display error from the planner. The grain direction of the countertop always follows the cabinet. So if you rotate the cabinet, as in your case, the countertop rotates with it. In real life, of course, this makes no sense.
I would not recommend rotating the drawer cabinet, unless you actually want to install a bar countertop. The cabinet itself is 59.8cm (23.5 inches) wide, with each side panel about 1.3cm (0.5 inches) thick. As soon as you put a side panel on the rotated cabinet, you end up with an offset that just looks awkward and eventually even creates an overhang, which with the 2 side panels, will be deeper than the countertop. You should also plan for a filler panel or at least a side panel facing the wall so the drawers don’t scrape against the wall when opened. Since the cabinet’s back panel faces the dishwasher, you have no way to properly secure it against tipping. The only option is to secure it through the side panel to the wall. If you include a filler panel, there will be a gap between the wall and the cabinet that needs to be properly supported and screwed in.
The solution would be to use only a 50cm (20 inches) base cabinet. Install a side panel on the left, a filler strip on the right, and align it with the dishwasher. This way, you can simply continue the toe kick without having to cut anything.
Best regards
Nayla
S
Sektionschef14 Jul 2013 19:26Thank you, Nayla!
I definitely want to build a side table like in the first picture, but I’d like to make it somehow “detachable” so that if we need more space, I can remove the side table and instead just place a countertop piece with the size of the base cabinet on top, like in the second picture. I haven’t figured out the mechanism for this yet.
Using a 50cm (20 inch) base cabinet instead of the 60cm (24 inch) one, as you suggest, makes sense to me. Unfortunately, there are no 50cm (20 inch) base cabinets with drawers available.
How would you solve this? What would you put under the side table?
Best regards,
Sektionschef
I definitely want to build a side table like in the first picture, but I’d like to make it somehow “detachable” so that if we need more space, I can remove the side table and instead just place a countertop piece with the size of the base cabinet on top, like in the second picture. I haven’t figured out the mechanism for this yet.
Using a 50cm (20 inch) base cabinet instead of the 60cm (24 inch) one, as you suggest, makes sense to me. Unfortunately, there are no 50cm (20 inch) base cabinets with drawers available.
How would you solve this? What would you put under the side table?
Best regards,
Sektionschef
I
IKEA-Experte14 Jul 2013 22:39Hello,
The countertop must run continuously from the sink to beyond the corner cabinet, as the dishwasher does not support it. With the Domsjö model, the support on the left side is already very small.
To attach the table, you could drill holes into the countertop from the side, where you insert metal pipes. When you remove the table, you can close the holes with plugs. To store the detached tabletop properly, a folding or hand-removable support leg would be advantageous.
For a 50cm (20 inch) cabinet, you will always need a door. Depending on what you want to store inside, you can equip it with shelves, wire baskets, or pull-out drawers.
To keep the toe kick continuous, you mount the feet slightly inset.
Maybe Nayla can add something.
The countertop must run continuously from the sink to beyond the corner cabinet, as the dishwasher does not support it. With the Domsjö model, the support on the left side is already very small.
To attach the table, you could drill holes into the countertop from the side, where you insert metal pipes. When you remove the table, you can close the holes with plugs. To store the detached tabletop properly, a folding or hand-removable support leg would be advantageous.
For a 50cm (20 inch) cabinet, you will always need a door. Depending on what you want to store inside, you can equip it with shelves, wire baskets, or pull-out drawers.
To keep the toe kick continuous, you mount the feet slightly inset.
Maybe Nayla can add something.
S
Sektionschef15 Jul 2013 07:47The countertop must run from the sink to above the corner cabinet because the dishwasher does not support it. Thanks, do I understand correctly that the dishwasher is not attached to the countertop at all (just pushed underneath), so it does not support the Domsjö? I hadn’t thought about that. Thanks!!!
With the Domsjö, the support on the left is already very small. Do you mean the left rear corner or the left side of the Domsjö sink? It’s still being decided how this corner will be solved:
Either an 80cm (31½ inches) base cabinet with just a 30cm (12 inches) door will be installed in that corner (like in the picture), then the construction should be sturdy enough to support the Domsjö, right?
Or there will be a blind corner and immediately after that the Domsjö sink, in which case I would put an empty base cabinet carcass in the blind corner that is not used but only serves to support the countertop. Would that also be sturdy enough for the Domsjö sink?
Best regards
Sektionschef
I
IKEA-Experte15 Jul 2013 09:17[quote]The countertop has to run from the sink to over the corner cabinet because the dishwasher doesn’t support it. Thanks, do I understand correctly that the dishwasher is not attached to the countertop (just pushed underneath), and that’s why it doesn’t support the Domsjö?[/quote]
Yes, but the Domsjö is supported by the sink cabinet.
With the Domsjö, the left support area is already very small. Do you mean the left rear corner or the left side of the Domsjö sink?
Best regards,
Section Chief[/quote]
I mean the left side of the right countertop, which is only supported on the sink cabinet side.
Regarding the 50cm (20 inches), it’s worth mentioning that you can, of course, also attach a door to the lower drawer and have internal drawers behind it.
Similar topics