I would try to screw and glue a steel sheet, not too thin, along the entire length.
(Stainless steel so it does not rust over time)
(Stainless steel so it does not rust over time)
M
Maverick18545 Dec 2013 06:09@Schnecki: That’s what I meant by this:
What if it really has to be this panel, a “raised floor.”
M
Maverick18545 Dec 2013 10:46I don’t think a "splicing" is particularly advantageous, as it may cause irregularities due to the wood’s expansion. Therefore, I would prefer a large-surface solution to ensure uniform expansion. However, this should be decided by a carpenter.
N
Nayla_10685 Dec 2013 21:04Hi,
probably I’m too late or disorganized.
Why does the IKEA representative say that 15cm (6 inches) clearance is needed all around? Usually, the rule of thumb is that there should be at least 5cm (2 inches) to the next cutout on both sides, and 10cm (4 inches) to the outer edge or joint. I think the salesperson just wanted to be extra cautious since cutouts that close together should only be done by professionals. Solid wood boards from IKEA are generally a bit trickier because they are not made from a single piece, but from many glued wood segments, except for the Akerby model. Due to the different wood grains, it’s even more difficult to achieve a clean, straight cut. In that case, having only 5cm (2 inches) of material between cutouts is quite risky.
If you want to have the boards cut by a carpenter, which I consider very sensible, you should do this on site so they can take measurements themselves and install the board directly afterward. If that’s not possible and you have to bring the boards to the carpenter’s workshop, here is a tip: have the cutouts only scored or partially cut—maximum 2cm (0.8 inches) deep—and finish the rest yourself at home. A fully cut countertop is quite unstable and will break easily.
Best regards
Nayla
probably I’m too late or disorganized.
Why does the IKEA representative say that 15cm (6 inches) clearance is needed all around? Usually, the rule of thumb is that there should be at least 5cm (2 inches) to the next cutout on both sides, and 10cm (4 inches) to the outer edge or joint. I think the salesperson just wanted to be extra cautious since cutouts that close together should only be done by professionals. Solid wood boards from IKEA are generally a bit trickier because they are not made from a single piece, but from many glued wood segments, except for the Akerby model. Due to the different wood grains, it’s even more difficult to achieve a clean, straight cut. In that case, having only 5cm (2 inches) of material between cutouts is quite risky.
If you want to have the boards cut by a carpenter, which I consider very sensible, you should do this on site so they can take measurements themselves and install the board directly afterward. If that’s not possible and you have to bring the boards to the carpenter’s workshop, here is a tip: have the cutouts only scored or partially cut—maximum 2cm (0.8 inches) deep—and finish the rest yourself at home. A fully cut countertop is quite unstable and will break easily.
Best regards
Nayla
Z
zetterberg6 Dec 2013 08:35...
The general rule of thumb is to have at least 5cm (2 inches) on both sides of the cutout and 10cm (4 inches) from the outer edge or joint.
...The panel is finger-jointed, so what do you think happens if the web is too narrow and the strips expand differently with heat or humidity? The panel will crack.
With the cooktop and sink, this is less of an issue because the narrow web runs parallel to the grain.
Either get a carpenter or forget about using a solid wood panel.
N
Nordkäppchen6 Dec 2013 10:04Actually, the numerical panel comes with its own installation instructions.
The laminated beam approach definitely makes sense in this context.
I would install a perforated angle strip or several small brackets under the relevant areas as support and secure the panel lightly with thin screws, so the wood can still expand and contract naturally.
For added security, smaller brackets could also be attached on both wall sides, hidden behind the finishing strip. This way, the panel would be secured downward on one side by the cooktop and upward on the wall side by the brackets—similar to a groove.
Best regards
Nordkäppchen
The laminated beam approach definitely makes sense in this context.
I would install a perforated angle strip or several small brackets under the relevant areas as support and secure the panel lightly with thin screws, so the wood can still expand and contract naturally.
For added security, smaller brackets could also be attached on both wall sides, hidden behind the finishing strip. This way, the panel would be secured downward on one side by the cooktop and upward on the wall side by the brackets—similar to a groove.
Best regards
Nordkäppchen
Similar topics