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Nordkäppchen2 Dec 2013 22:10Hi
Have you already looked at the installation manuals for the individual cooktops?
They specify a minimum distance of 50mm (2 inches) front and back, and at least 100mm (4 inches) on the left and right, but not 15cm (6 inches).
At least the front and back distances don’t seem to make sense, because if you subtract 30cm (12 inches) from your countertop depth, your cooktop would only be 32cm (13 inches) deep, and the same probably applies to the sink.
Take a look at the installation manual there as well.
Best regards
Nordkäppchen
Have you already looked at the installation manuals for the individual cooktops?
They specify a minimum distance of 50mm (2 inches) front and back, and at least 100mm (4 inches) on the left and right, but not 15cm (6 inches).
At least the front and back distances don’t seem to make sense, because if you subtract 30cm (12 inches) from your countertop depth, your cooktop would only be 32cm (13 inches) deep, and the same probably applies to the sink.
Take a look at the installation manual there as well.
Best regards
Nordkäppchen
I
IKEA-Freund2 Dec 2013 22:23Hello,
In general, I would be cautious about fastening or even gluing a solid wood panel on one side with metal sheet. Wood expands and contracts across the grain depending on the humidity. If you screw a metal rail underneath, the rail should have elongated holes so that the screws (preferably flat head) can move slightly according to the expansion or contraction of the worktop; otherwise, the panel might warp.
The "elongated hole" principle is also clearly demonstrated in the assembly instructions for Numerär. There, brackets with elongated holes are used to attach to the base cabinets.
Good luck,
IKEA-Freund
In general, I would be cautious about fastening or even gluing a solid wood panel on one side with metal sheet. Wood expands and contracts across the grain depending on the humidity. If you screw a metal rail underneath, the rail should have elongated holes so that the screws (preferably flat head) can move slightly according to the expansion or contraction of the worktop; otherwise, the panel might warp.
The "elongated hole" principle is also clearly demonstrated in the assembly instructions for Numerär. There, brackets with elongated holes are used to attach to the base cabinets.
Good luck,
IKEA-Freund
I
IKEA-Freund2 Dec 2013 22:33Hi
Have you already looked at the installation manuals for the individual cooktops?
They specify a minimum distance of 50mm (2 inches) at the front and back, and at least 100mm (4 inches) on the left and right, but not 15cm (6 inches). For the cooktop itself, yes – but for the countertop, 150mm (6 inches) clearance is required on the sides (see link to the manual).
Regards,
IKEA-Freund
M
Maverick18544 Dec 2013 06:34Also:
Bonding or screwing a solid wood panel to a metal sheet is not advisable. Over time, problems will most likely arise due to the different materials.
If that panel is absolutely necessary, how about a "double floor"? By that, I mean attaching a second panel underneath the first one. This would need to be selected by a carpenter and also adapted to the kitchen.
A very costly solution, but if it benefits the panel.
Bonding or screwing a solid wood panel to a metal sheet is not advisable. Over time, problems will most likely arise due to the different materials.
If that panel is absolutely necessary, how about a "double floor"? By that, I mean attaching a second panel underneath the first one. This would need to be selected by a carpenter and also adapted to the kitchen.
A very costly solution, but if it benefits the panel.
I am not an expert in DIY. But I am quite good at improvising....
So here are my thoughts on this:
A solid wood panel doesn’t break that easily. You just need to make sure that too much pressure isn’t applied at one spot from above without support underneath. In other words, I would focus on creating some kind of support surface for the panel at the relevant spot. For example, screw additional wooden strips onto the base cabinets for the panel to rest on.
So here are my thoughts on this:
A solid wood panel doesn’t break that easily. You just need to make sure that too much pressure isn’t applied at one spot from above without support underneath. In other words, I would focus on creating some kind of support surface for the panel at the relevant spot. For example, screw additional wooden strips onto the base cabinets for the panel to rest on.
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