ᐅ Construction of a 144 sqm bungalow in Fichtenwalde (near Potsdam)
Created on: 16 May 2021 18:56
A
Acof1978
Then I would also like to introduce our building project here and keep you updated.
First, a brief introduction about us. He (42.5 years; controller in healthcare), she (38.5 years; full-time teacher), child (8.75 years; fully dependent). Our household net income is currently about €6,400 (approximately $6,800) plus performance bonuses, 13th-month salary, overtime, etc. We own a 1,462 sqm (15,735 sq ft) plot of land in Fichtenwalde. The remaining debt on the land is €37,000 (about $39,000). According to official land value guidelines, the land is valued at €146,200 (about $156,000) (€100 / sqm). The market price is around €400,000 to €600,000 (recent sale prices). We submitted the building permit application including the land conversion at the end of December. We expect approval by mid to late July.
The construction company is KB Brandis from Jüterbog. External site supervision will be handled by Bauherrenhilfe with 13 appointments.
Now about the house. It will be a 144 sqm (1,550 sq ft) bungalow plus a 12 sqm (130 sq ft) covered terrace with the following additions:
- Ceiling height 3.00 m (9.8 ft)
- Electric roller shutters (including smart home integration)
- Double-sided laminated windows (wood-colored; RC3 security rating)
- Brine-to-water heat pump with ground collectors due to water protection area (Bosch Compress 7800i LW)
- Hydraulic balancing of the underfloor heating
- Controlled residential ventilation with heat recovery (Bosch)
- Motion detectors from a security company
- 13 kWp photovoltaic system, including battery preparation
- 10 m³ (2,650 gal) cistern for rainwater use
- Doorbell with video function
- Wallbox preparation for electric vehicle charging
- Exterior lighting
Floor plan attached.
We have not yet finalized financing (although discussions have taken place). So far, we have invested up to €30,000 (approximately $32,000) from our own savings during the planning phase. This is almost all of our equity. However, we continue to save about €2,750 (approximately $2,920) per month. The monthly mortgage payment is expected to be around €1,650 (about $1,750) plus additional costs of approximately €200-250 (about $210-265) (taking into account the photovoltaic system). This means when we move into the house, we will still have savings of at least €1,500 (about $1,590) per month.
The construction contract will be signed within the next few weeks. The prices (recently discussed with the company) correspond to the offer and commitment as of September 2020.
The price per square meter of the house (according to the latest offer and full specification) will be €2,700 (about $2,870). This includes everything, such as painting, flooring, etc. The overall costs are structured as follows:
House: €378,000 (about $402,000)
Land conversion including reclassification: €25,000 (about $26,600)
Additional building costs: €40,000 (about $42,500)
Outdoor facilities: €25,000 (about $26,600)
Total financing volume: €468,000 (about $498,000)
First, a brief introduction about us. He (42.5 years; controller in healthcare), she (38.5 years; full-time teacher), child (8.75 years; fully dependent). Our household net income is currently about €6,400 (approximately $6,800) plus performance bonuses, 13th-month salary, overtime, etc. We own a 1,462 sqm (15,735 sq ft) plot of land in Fichtenwalde. The remaining debt on the land is €37,000 (about $39,000). According to official land value guidelines, the land is valued at €146,200 (about $156,000) (€100 / sqm). The market price is around €400,000 to €600,000 (recent sale prices). We submitted the building permit application including the land conversion at the end of December. We expect approval by mid to late July.
The construction company is KB Brandis from Jüterbog. External site supervision will be handled by Bauherrenhilfe with 13 appointments.
Now about the house. It will be a 144 sqm (1,550 sq ft) bungalow plus a 12 sqm (130 sq ft) covered terrace with the following additions:
- Ceiling height 3.00 m (9.8 ft)
- Electric roller shutters (including smart home integration)
- Double-sided laminated windows (wood-colored; RC3 security rating)
- Brine-to-water heat pump with ground collectors due to water protection area (Bosch Compress 7800i LW)
- Hydraulic balancing of the underfloor heating
- Controlled residential ventilation with heat recovery (Bosch)
- Motion detectors from a security company
- 13 kWp photovoltaic system, including battery preparation
- 10 m³ (2,650 gal) cistern for rainwater use
- Doorbell with video function
- Wallbox preparation for electric vehicle charging
- Exterior lighting
Floor plan attached.
We have not yet finalized financing (although discussions have taken place). So far, we have invested up to €30,000 (approximately $32,000) from our own savings during the planning phase. This is almost all of our equity. However, we continue to save about €2,750 (approximately $2,920) per month. The monthly mortgage payment is expected to be around €1,650 (about $1,750) plus additional costs of approximately €200-250 (about $210-265) (taking into account the photovoltaic system). This means when we move into the house, we will still have savings of at least €1,500 (about $1,590) per month.
The construction contract will be signed within the next few weeks. The prices (recently discussed with the company) correspond to the offer and commitment as of September 2020.
The price per square meter of the house (according to the latest offer and full specification) will be €2,700 (about $2,870). This includes everything, such as painting, flooring, etc. The overall costs are structured as follows:
House: €378,000 (about $402,000)
Land conversion including reclassification: €25,000 (about $26,600)
Additional building costs: €40,000 (about $42,500)
Outdoor facilities: €25,000 (about $26,600)
Total financing volume: €468,000 (about $498,000)
The water coming from the roof should be directed away from the house and allowed to infiltrate into the ground on the property.
Under normal circumstances, the downpipe from the gutter runs down to the ground level and is then buried in the soil, connected to a sewer pipe (KG pipe). After that, there is a 90° bend, and the pipe is sloped away from the house into the terrain. After 3–4 or 5–6 meters (depending on the size of the property), the KG pipe transitions into a drain pipe. These are usually yellow or orange and perforated. Surrounding the drain pipe is a gravel layer consisting of 16/32 gravel, which is then wrapped in drainage fabric. The entire assembly is wrapped in the fabric and covered with soil. The fabric prevents the gravel layer from silting up. This way, the water arriving is distributed more evenly into the soil.
However, this system only works up to a certain amount of water. If a large volume of water comes from above, it will eventually back up and push against the downpipes. Alternatively, it can push up at the connection point between the KG pipe and the downpipe, depending on the sealing. If pine needles then also enter the system, they can clog the drainage pipe, causing the system to fail.
Under normal circumstances, the downpipe from the gutter runs down to the ground level and is then buried in the soil, connected to a sewer pipe (KG pipe). After that, there is a 90° bend, and the pipe is sloped away from the house into the terrain. After 3–4 or 5–6 meters (depending on the size of the property), the KG pipe transitions into a drain pipe. These are usually yellow or orange and perforated. Surrounding the drain pipe is a gravel layer consisting of 16/32 gravel, which is then wrapped in drainage fabric. The entire assembly is wrapped in the fabric and covered with soil. The fabric prevents the gravel layer from silting up. This way, the water arriving is distributed more evenly into the soil.
However, this system only works up to a certain amount of water. If a large volume of water comes from above, it will eventually back up and push against the downpipes. Alternatively, it can push up at the connection point between the KG pipe and the downpipe, depending on the sealing. If pine needles then also enter the system, they can clog the drainage pipe, causing the system to fail.
MG-Paint schrieb:
The water coming from the roof should be directed away from the house and allowed to infiltrate into the ground on the property. Usually, the downspout is installed from the gutter to the surface level of the ground and then buried in the soil, connected to a sewer pipe (PVC pipe). After that, there is a 90° bend, and the pipe is carried away from the house into the terrain with a slope. After 3–4 or 5–6 meters (depending on the size of the property), the PVC pipe transitions into a drainage pipe. These pipes are usually yellow or orange and perforated. Around the drainage pipe, there is a gravel layer made of 16/32 gravel, and around that, a drainage geotextile fabric is placed. The whole assembly is wrapped with the fabric and backfilled with soil. The fabric prevents the gravel layer from silting up. This system helps distribute the water evenly into the ground.
However, this only works up to a certain water volume. If large amounts of water come from above, the water eventually backs up and can push up the downspouts. Or it can cause pressure at the connection point between the PVC pipe and the downspout, depending on the sealing. If pine needles or similar debris enter, they can clog the drainage pipe and impair its function.Thank you very much for the explanation. There are no pine trees nearby. What solutions are available for handling larger volumes of water? Are there expansions or connections between two systems that provide protection against heavy water flow?
And one more question: What is the approximate cost for such a system?
M
motorradsilke11 Nov 2021 07:49We solved the infiltration in a very simple way. We used a green water barrel, drilled many holes in it, dug a hole in the ground, placed a geotextile fabric inside (to prevent sand from entering), filled it with coarse gravel (16/32) (16/32 mm (5/8 - 1 1/4 inches)), then put the barrel in, filled it halfway with the same gravel, placed the lid on the barrel, and covered it with geotextile fabric again (to prevent sand from entering from above). This setup is connected to the gutter and buried so that there are still 20 to 30 cm (8 to 12 inches) of soil above it, a few meters away from the house. When it really rains heavily, water is pushed out of the barrel and flows into the garden; so far, no water has come back from the gutter (we already used this system at the old house). This only happens during severe rainstorms, and the garden is wet anyway.
You could connect something like this as an overflow to the cistern if it is technically possible from the cistern’s side. Or you could simply install an overflow on the cistern that lets the excess water drain into the garden or your woodland.
You could connect something like this as an overflow to the cistern if it is technically possible from the cistern’s side. Or you could simply install an overflow on the cistern that lets the excess water drain into the garden or your woodland.
motorradsilke schrieb:
We solved the infiltration very simply. We used a green water barrel, drilled lots of holes in it, dug a hole in the ground, lined it with a geotextile fabric (to prevent clogging with sand), added coarse gravel (16/32) first, then placed the barrel inside, filled it halfway with the same gravel, put the lid on the barrel, and covered it with geotextile fabric as well (to prevent sand from entering from above). We connected the whole setup to the gutter and buried it so that there is still 20 to 30 cm (8 to 12 inches) of soil covering it, and positioned it a few meters away from the house. When there is really heavy rain, water is pushed out of the barrel upwards and then drains into the garden; nothing has ever come out of the gutter itself (and we had the same setup at the old house). This only happens during very heavy downpours, and by then the garden is wet anyway.
You could connect something like this to the cistern as an overflow if it is technically feasible from the cistern side. Or you could simply make an overflow outlet from the cistern that lets excess water drain into the garden or your forest area.There definitely should be an overflow for the cistern. I’ll discuss this with the managing director of the building company first. Let’s see what ideas he has. Otherwise, I will also review his ideas with an external construction supervisor to make sure—as a layperson—I am doubly protected. 😎
M
motorradsilke11 Nov 2021 07:56Well, if the cistern has an overflow, then everything is fine. It was probably planned to be located at the back so the water can simply drain away there.
motorradsilke schrieb:
Well, if the cistern has an overflow, then everything is fine. That's probably why the cistern was planned to be located at the back, so the water can simply drain away there.But also because a large terrace will be built in front of the house. And if the cistern needs to be excavated later, we definitely don’t want to have to tear up the terrace :-)
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