ᐅ Cistern Dimensions – Building Plan Tips

Created on: 1 Jul 2016 15:22
M
McEgg
McEgg1 Jul 2016 15:22
Hello,
I have a question regarding the offered cistern. Our development plan states the following:
C 3. Water Management
C 3.1 The hardening of open areas should be limited to a minimum. Parking spaces and driveways should be paved with permeable surfaces (e.g., grass pavers, paving with grass joints, gravel turf, or similar).
C 3.2 The uncontaminated rainwater collected on private properties must be retained on the site and infiltrated or used as non-potable water.
Only wastewater must be directed to the sewage treatment plant.
C 3.3 A management concept must be developed and coordinated with SGD Süd, RS WAB, Neustadt for the disposal/use of rainwater that is not significantly polluted.

The general contractor suggested that we install a cistern in the garden.
The current offer includes a cistern with a capacity of 4,000 liters (1,057 gallons).
The plot is approximately 540 m² (5,813 sq ft) in total. The house will be roughly 10 m x 11 m (33 ft x 36 ft), plus a double garage of 6 m x 6 m (20 ft x 20 ft), and a terrace...
Do you think this size is too small?
D
Doc.Schnaggls
1 Jul 2016 16:11
Hello,

I believe that a slightly larger rainwater tank would be a better choice.

We have a smaller plot (370 m² (3983 ft²)) developed with a house measuring 9 x 11.4 m (30 x 37 ft), plus a garage 7 x 3.3 m (23 x 11 ft), another garage 6 x 2.9 m (20 x 10 ft), and a terrace 7 x 5 m (23 x 16 ft).

The remaining garden area is mostly covered with lawn and ornamental shrubs, along with a raised bed (see avatar) for fruit bushes and some vegetables.

After a summer like last year’s, we actually emptied our 4,500-liter (1,188-gallon) tank twice and had to rely on tap water just for garden irrigation.

If you have the option, I would therefore recommend choosing a somewhat larger model—the additional costs should be reasonable.

If you decide to install a rainwater tank, I also suggest including at least one below-ground tap point, as this makes things much easier than having to manage “miles” of hose.

Regards,
Dirk
McEgg1 Jul 2016 16:25
What do you mean by the tap point? On the opposite side of the garden? I was actually thinking of installing an irrigation system. Then I wouldn’t really need a hose…
D
Doc.Schnaggls
1 Jul 2016 18:00
I am referring to those outdoor water outlets, like the ones Gardena offers in their range. Placing them at strategically convenient spots in the garden saves a lot of hose length and carrying effort.

In my opinion, they are useful in addition to an irrigation system.

We have an automatic pump in the cistern that activates on its own as soon as water is drawn from one of these outlets.

Regards,

Dirk
N
nasenmann
1 Jul 2016 18:01
It depends.
Last summer was quite dry. I used up 4,000 liters (about 1,057 gallons) just by watering my newly planted shrubs. I eventually stopped watering the lawn. It will recover on its own.
You have to decide what it’s worth to you. The larger rainwater tank doesn’t come for free either.
S
Saruss
1 Jul 2016 22:08
I have managed with 1,000 liters (264 gallons) over the past two years, which is replenished by my garage roof. The only exception was during the establishment of a new lawn, but water isn’t that expensive here (and a rainwater tank is not mandatory). Is it really worth it (investment and ongoing costs/electricity compared to a few euros for 1,000 liters)?

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