ᐅ Construction of a 144 sqm bungalow in Fichtenwalde (near Potsdam)
Created on: 16 May 2021 18:56
A
Acof1978
Then I would also like to introduce our building project here and keep you updated.
First, a brief introduction about us. He (42.5 years; controller in healthcare), she (38.5 years; full-time teacher), child (8.75 years; fully dependent). Our household net income is currently about €6,400 (approximately $6,800) plus performance bonuses, 13th-month salary, overtime, etc. We own a 1,462 sqm (15,735 sq ft) plot of land in Fichtenwalde. The remaining debt on the land is €37,000 (about $39,000). According to official land value guidelines, the land is valued at €146,200 (about $156,000) (€100 / sqm). The market price is around €400,000 to €600,000 (recent sale prices). We submitted the building permit application including the land conversion at the end of December. We expect approval by mid to late July.
The construction company is KB Brandis from Jüterbog. External site supervision will be handled by Bauherrenhilfe with 13 appointments.
Now about the house. It will be a 144 sqm (1,550 sq ft) bungalow plus a 12 sqm (130 sq ft) covered terrace with the following additions:
- Ceiling height 3.00 m (9.8 ft)
- Electric roller shutters (including smart home integration)
- Double-sided laminated windows (wood-colored; RC3 security rating)
- Brine-to-water heat pump with ground collectors due to water protection area (Bosch Compress 7800i LW)
- Hydraulic balancing of the underfloor heating
- Controlled residential ventilation with heat recovery (Bosch)
- Motion detectors from a security company
- 13 kWp photovoltaic system, including battery preparation
- 10 m³ (2,650 gal) cistern for rainwater use
- Doorbell with video function
- Wallbox preparation for electric vehicle charging
- Exterior lighting
Floor plan attached.
We have not yet finalized financing (although discussions have taken place). So far, we have invested up to €30,000 (approximately $32,000) from our own savings during the planning phase. This is almost all of our equity. However, we continue to save about €2,750 (approximately $2,920) per month. The monthly mortgage payment is expected to be around €1,650 (about $1,750) plus additional costs of approximately €200-250 (about $210-265) (taking into account the photovoltaic system). This means when we move into the house, we will still have savings of at least €1,500 (about $1,590) per month.
The construction contract will be signed within the next few weeks. The prices (recently discussed with the company) correspond to the offer and commitment as of September 2020.
The price per square meter of the house (according to the latest offer and full specification) will be €2,700 (about $2,870). This includes everything, such as painting, flooring, etc. The overall costs are structured as follows:
House: €378,000 (about $402,000)
Land conversion including reclassification: €25,000 (about $26,600)
Additional building costs: €40,000 (about $42,500)
Outdoor facilities: €25,000 (about $26,600)
Total financing volume: €468,000 (about $498,000)
First, a brief introduction about us. He (42.5 years; controller in healthcare), she (38.5 years; full-time teacher), child (8.75 years; fully dependent). Our household net income is currently about €6,400 (approximately $6,800) plus performance bonuses, 13th-month salary, overtime, etc. We own a 1,462 sqm (15,735 sq ft) plot of land in Fichtenwalde. The remaining debt on the land is €37,000 (about $39,000). According to official land value guidelines, the land is valued at €146,200 (about $156,000) (€100 / sqm). The market price is around €400,000 to €600,000 (recent sale prices). We submitted the building permit application including the land conversion at the end of December. We expect approval by mid to late July.
The construction company is KB Brandis from Jüterbog. External site supervision will be handled by Bauherrenhilfe with 13 appointments.
Now about the house. It will be a 144 sqm (1,550 sq ft) bungalow plus a 12 sqm (130 sq ft) covered terrace with the following additions:
- Ceiling height 3.00 m (9.8 ft)
- Electric roller shutters (including smart home integration)
- Double-sided laminated windows (wood-colored; RC3 security rating)
- Brine-to-water heat pump with ground collectors due to water protection area (Bosch Compress 7800i LW)
- Hydraulic balancing of the underfloor heating
- Controlled residential ventilation with heat recovery (Bosch)
- Motion detectors from a security company
- 13 kWp photovoltaic system, including battery preparation
- 10 m³ (2,650 gal) cistern for rainwater use
- Doorbell with video function
- Wallbox preparation for electric vehicle charging
- Exterior lighting
Floor plan attached.
We have not yet finalized financing (although discussions have taken place). So far, we have invested up to €30,000 (approximately $32,000) from our own savings during the planning phase. This is almost all of our equity. However, we continue to save about €2,750 (approximately $2,920) per month. The monthly mortgage payment is expected to be around €1,650 (about $1,750) plus additional costs of approximately €200-250 (about $210-265) (taking into account the photovoltaic system). This means when we move into the house, we will still have savings of at least €1,500 (about $1,590) per month.
The construction contract will be signed within the next few weeks. The prices (recently discussed with the company) correspond to the offer and commitment as of September 2020.
The price per square meter of the house (according to the latest offer and full specification) will be €2,700 (about $2,870). This includes everything, such as painting, flooring, etc. The overall costs are structured as follows:
House: €378,000 (about $402,000)
Land conversion including reclassification: €25,000 (about $26,600)
Additional building costs: €40,000 (about $42,500)
Outdoor facilities: €25,000 (about $26,600)
Total financing volume: €468,000 (about $498,000)
Mahri23 schrieb:
Correct. I installed an 8 m³ (around 10.5 cubic yards) underground cistern next to our house. Our plot is only 700 m² (7,535 square feet), though.
We got through the summer really well. It was only “almost” empty once. After one good rainfall, it fills up again immediately.
We connected all roof drainage, the carport, and the front paved areas to it. That adds up quickly.
It’s located about 3 meters (10 feet) from the house. Installation from the street was perfectly manageable. I would definitely do it again. 🙂
Since we built in a water protection zone, we unfortunately couldn’t do any earth drilling or well drilling.
So the only option was an air source heat pump. I would have liked to install trench collectors, but my wife wasn’t on board with that. Also, the plot wouldn’t have been very suitable, and she wouldn’t have been able to plant her trees anymore. Is that a concrete cistern? Strangely, those tend to be cheaper than plastic ones. :-)
The garden at the back will only be about 750 m² (8,070 square feet). The house is set quite far back on the lot. A carport will be added at the front eventually, and it will mostly be paved. So that’s already 16.5 m (54 feet) (distance from street to house) plus 13.5 m (44 feet) house width, totaling 30 m (98 feet) times 20 m (66 feet) lot width equals 600 m² (6,458 square feet). Plus a large terrace. That leaves around 750 m² (8,070 square feet) garden space.
H
HausTmMike10 Nov 2021 13:05Tom1978 schrieb:
Does anyone have experience with trench collectors and rainwater cisterns?
I’m especially curious about the rainwater cistern being installed so far away from the house.Instead of the cistern, I would place the drainage directly over the trench collector. It saves money and improves the efficiency of the heating system.
It works excellently for me.
HausTmMike schrieb:
Instead of using a cistern, I would suggest routing the drainage directly to the trench collector.
This saves money and improves the efficiency of the heating system.
It works really well for me. I have now spoken with the external construction supervisor. She confirmed this. However, as with most things, it must be done correctly. I have contacted the builder to discuss it with him 😎
Thank you for the quick responses. Are the 4800€ more like a deposit that you ideally get back?
Since Borkwalde isn’t our first house, I can share our experience with cisterns from our two other homes.
We once had a house in Stahnsdorf on about 700 sqm with roughly 240 sqm (2600 sq ft) of roof area. During extreme weather, the downspouts turned into little water fountains, even from the ground. We then retrofitted soakaway baskets and that solved the problem. The tank would have filled up quickly. Once it’s full, where does the water go? That’s why soakaway baskets are needed, which aren’t cheap either. Not to mention the pine needles—there have to be screens in the downspouts, or else all the needles end up in the tank. The needles get so compressed that sometimes I had to use pliers to clear the pipes, of course always in the rain or bad weather.
Now we rent a place with a 6 m³ (210 ft³) underground tank. When we connect a suction pump from the landlord, there’s only a weak trickle. I wouldn’t try to water a large area with that. There must be better solutions—like a pump in the tank that delivers enough pressure. Personally, I wouldn’t know what to do with 10 m³ (350 ft³). I prefer automated irrigation systems, and you’d need roughly 2000 liters (530 gallons) of flow rate to water larger areas effectively. I’d have to combine that with fresh water because the tank would probably be empty during summer. For me, that’s too much effort.
Digging in the rings can be done by hand since they settle, but by the fourth ring, you definitely have to add soil on top, and that compressed feeling underground isn’t for everyone. So you need technology, which of course costs money. If the cistern ever develops problems over time or you decide not to use it anymore and want it removed, then in ?? years an excavator will run through your finished garden. I can already guess what my wife would say about that. The top ring would have to be removed, then roughly 10 m³ (350 ft³) of soil filled in again, and the rest left underground. Knowing my luck, I’d want to install something exactly where the leftover rings are in the ground, which would be annoying.
If I were to decide on water for the garden anyway, I’d choose the front yard. We’re also planning about 15 m (50 ft) from the street, which offers plenty of space. When the cistern is full, you can water longer than three days. You’re not going to dump 3000 liters (800 gallons) on the garden in one evening.
Since Borkwalde isn’t our first house, I can share our experience with cisterns from our two other homes.
We once had a house in Stahnsdorf on about 700 sqm with roughly 240 sqm (2600 sq ft) of roof area. During extreme weather, the downspouts turned into little water fountains, even from the ground. We then retrofitted soakaway baskets and that solved the problem. The tank would have filled up quickly. Once it’s full, where does the water go? That’s why soakaway baskets are needed, which aren’t cheap either. Not to mention the pine needles—there have to be screens in the downspouts, or else all the needles end up in the tank. The needles get so compressed that sometimes I had to use pliers to clear the pipes, of course always in the rain or bad weather.
Now we rent a place with a 6 m³ (210 ft³) underground tank. When we connect a suction pump from the landlord, there’s only a weak trickle. I wouldn’t try to water a large area with that. There must be better solutions—like a pump in the tank that delivers enough pressure. Personally, I wouldn’t know what to do with 10 m³ (350 ft³). I prefer automated irrigation systems, and you’d need roughly 2000 liters (530 gallons) of flow rate to water larger areas effectively. I’d have to combine that with fresh water because the tank would probably be empty during summer. For me, that’s too much effort.
Digging in the rings can be done by hand since they settle, but by the fourth ring, you definitely have to add soil on top, and that compressed feeling underground isn’t for everyone. So you need technology, which of course costs money. If the cistern ever develops problems over time or you decide not to use it anymore and want it removed, then in ?? years an excavator will run through your finished garden. I can already guess what my wife would say about that. The top ring would have to be removed, then roughly 10 m³ (350 ft³) of soil filled in again, and the rest left underground. Knowing my luck, I’d want to install something exactly where the leftover rings are in the ground, which would be annoying.
If I were to decide on water for the garden anyway, I’d choose the front yard. We’re also planning about 15 m (50 ft) from the street, which offers plenty of space. When the cistern is full, you can water longer than three days. You’re not going to dump 3000 liters (800 gallons) on the garden in one evening.
MG-Paint schrieb:
Thank you for the quick answers. Are the 4800€ kind of a deposit that you get back in the best case?It’s a security deposit in case the first trees on the replacement areas don’t grow. In theory, you get the money back after a few years, but I’m not necessarily counting on that 🙂
I didn’t fully understand the ring trench collectors. They are installed entirely by the construction company or a specialist contractor. So I don’t have to worry about that. They are placed about 1 to 1.5 meters (3 to 5 feet) deep in the ground. The only drawback is that you can’t transplant deep-rooted plants there or build any small structures on top. However, we have enough space behind the house, so that’s not an issue for us. Also, we’ve both always lived in “small” apartments, so moving to a house with a large garden is quite an experience :-)
I still need to consider the cistern and discuss it with the builder. We might skip the approximately 4,000€ investment and find a better alternative.
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