Development Plan / Restrictions
Plot size: 327 m² (3,526 ft²)
Slope: no
Site coverage ratio: 0.2
Floor area ratio: 0.3
Building window, building line, and building boundary
§34 - 3 m (10 feet) setback, etc.
Edge development: Not relevant to the question
Number of parking spaces: 1
Number of floors: 2
Roof type: Gable
Architectural style: Modern
Orientation
Maximum heights/limits
Other requirements
The house itself is determined by the developer and therefore cannot be influenced in terms of dimensions, shape, and orientation (see floor plans). The focus is solely on the internal floor plans, layout, and optimal use of space.
Homeowners’ Requirements
Style, roof type, building type: Set by developer, as above
Basement, floors
No basement, 2 floors with converted attic
Number of occupants, age
Current: 2 adults, one child (8 years), two more children planned
Space requirements on ground floor and upper floor
Square meters predetermined by the building (52.44 m² (565 ft²) gross internal floor area)
Office: Home office?
Overnight guests per year: 8
Open or closed architecture: open
Conservative or modern construction: modern
Open kitchen: Yes, island only if not too cramped
Number of dining places: 6
Fireplace: no
Music/stereo wall: home cinema
Balcony, roof terrace: no
Garage, carport: no
Utility garden, greenhouse: later, not part of the question
Additional wishes / special features / daily routine:
We still need some storage space somewhere, as there is no basement.
Extra shower bathroom, because with 5 people in the morning it would otherwise get too congested, and also for guests.
Partner dislikes “slanted” room doors, so rooms should always be accessible at right angles (entry to kitchen/living room is an exception (but no door installed there either)).
House Design
Planner:
- Do-it-yourself based on a plan from the builder
What do you particularly like? Why?
6 rooms included, extra shower bathroom included, managed to get some storage space.
What do you dislike? Why?
Narrow bedroom, very small utility room (must be at least 5 m² (54 ft²) according to the builder), one room with many corners in the attic.
Price estimate according to architect/planner:
300,000
Personal price limit for the house, including fittings:
330,000 (all in, excluding exterior works and additional costs)
Preferred heating technology:
Air source heat pump
If you had to give up, on which details/extensions
- could you give up:
Storage room (then maybe as a shed?)
- cannot give up:
Second shower bathroom, separate office
Why is the design the way it is? For example
Standard design by planner?
Which wishes were implemented by the architect?
A mix of many examples from various magazines...
What makes it particularly good or bad in your opinion?
Self-modified design proposal from the builder. Originally had only 4 rooms.
What is the most important/basic question about the floor plan in 130 characters?
Is this floor plan even possible?
Have we forgotten something? Can it be made nicer somehow? According to the builder, the staircase can be smaller, but the space must probably be allocated to the utility room (which the builder says is too small).
We are particularly concerned about the lack of storage space (no basement, no attic).
Where do you store your stuff then (not bulky waste, but items you do not need all year round: inflatable boat and air mattress, Christmas tree, winter jackets, etc.)?
Location plan will follow.
Thanks and regards
Tolentino
Plot size: 327 m² (3,526 ft²)
Slope: no
Site coverage ratio: 0.2
Floor area ratio: 0.3
Building window, building line, and building boundary
§34 - 3 m (10 feet) setback, etc.
Edge development: Not relevant to the question
Number of parking spaces: 1
Number of floors: 2
Roof type: Gable
Architectural style: Modern
Orientation
Maximum heights/limits
Other requirements
The house itself is determined by the developer and therefore cannot be influenced in terms of dimensions, shape, and orientation (see floor plans). The focus is solely on the internal floor plans, layout, and optimal use of space.
Homeowners’ Requirements
Style, roof type, building type: Set by developer, as above
Basement, floors
No basement, 2 floors with converted attic
Number of occupants, age
Current: 2 adults, one child (8 years), two more children planned
Space requirements on ground floor and upper floor
Square meters predetermined by the building (52.44 m² (565 ft²) gross internal floor area)
Office: Home office?
Overnight guests per year: 8
Open or closed architecture: open
Conservative or modern construction: modern
Open kitchen: Yes, island only if not too cramped
Number of dining places: 6
Fireplace: no
Music/stereo wall: home cinema
Balcony, roof terrace: no
Garage, carport: no
Utility garden, greenhouse: later, not part of the question
Additional wishes / special features / daily routine:
We still need some storage space somewhere, as there is no basement.
Extra shower bathroom, because with 5 people in the morning it would otherwise get too congested, and also for guests.
Partner dislikes “slanted” room doors, so rooms should always be accessible at right angles (entry to kitchen/living room is an exception (but no door installed there either)).
House Design
Planner:
- Do-it-yourself based on a plan from the builder
What do you particularly like? Why?
6 rooms included, extra shower bathroom included, managed to get some storage space.
What do you dislike? Why?
Narrow bedroom, very small utility room (must be at least 5 m² (54 ft²) according to the builder), one room with many corners in the attic.
Price estimate according to architect/planner:
300,000
Personal price limit for the house, including fittings:
330,000 (all in, excluding exterior works and additional costs)
Preferred heating technology:
Air source heat pump
If you had to give up, on which details/extensions
- could you give up:
Storage room (then maybe as a shed?)
- cannot give up:
Second shower bathroom, separate office
Why is the design the way it is? For example
Standard design by planner?
Which wishes were implemented by the architect?
A mix of many examples from various magazines...
What makes it particularly good or bad in your opinion?
Self-modified design proposal from the builder. Originally had only 4 rooms.
What is the most important/basic question about the floor plan in 130 characters?
Is this floor plan even possible?
Have we forgotten something? Can it be made nicer somehow? According to the builder, the staircase can be smaller, but the space must probably be allocated to the utility room (which the builder says is too small).
We are particularly concerned about the lack of storage space (no basement, no attic).
Where do you store your stuff then (not bulky waste, but items you do not need all year round: inflatable boat and air mattress, Christmas tree, winter jackets, etc.)?
Location plan will follow.
Thanks and regards
Tolentino
Tolentino schrieb:
I’ll get started on building it then.That doesn’t make much sense unless you have the exact specifications of the roof.
kaho674 schrieb:
That doesn’t make much sense unless you have the exact details of the roof.Correct. You should also check the roof pitch. The technical equipment might actually fit in the attic! Plus more or less storage space. However, there should be a proper staircase leading up there.Also, take a look at the floor plan of the Mainz 128 by Town & Country to see how they managed it on a 6x10 meter (20x33 feet) footprint. There are three children's bedrooms upstairs and a studio for the parents on the upper floor, where you could also section off a small office space.
And: forget about having a shower on the ground floor and instead install a handheld showerhead plus a floor drain in the toilet room. This way, you can also rinse off your dirty clothes. The main issue is always the lack of a utility room and storage space. The latter can be partially solved (for less sensitive items) in the garden, plus a solution under the stairs. For that, I would definitely recommend hiring a skilled carpenter who can maximize the available space.
Another option would be to completely do without the ground floor toilet, take some space from the kitchen, and convert it into a utility room.
And: forget about having a shower on the ground floor and instead install a handheld showerhead plus a floor drain in the toilet room. This way, you can also rinse off your dirty clothes. The main issue is always the lack of a utility room and storage space. The latter can be partially solved (for less sensitive items) in the garden, plus a solution under the stairs. For that, I would definitely recommend hiring a skilled carpenter who can maximize the available space.
Another option would be to completely do without the ground floor toilet, take some space from the kitchen, and convert it into a utility room.
Two more points:
1) You are probably living in an apartment right now. Let’s say 80 m² (860 sq ft) of actual living space with 3 rooms. You can equate the hallway inside the apartment with the stairwell on the ground floor. But now you have two more hallways and staircases on the upper floors (first and second floors), which already adds up to 15 m² (160 sq ft). Plus 5 m² (54 sq ft) for technical rooms, which you probably had off-site in the basement before. So your house would need to have about 100 m² (1,076 sq ft) already just to offer an equivalent amount of usable space as theapartment. And then you get 3 additional rooms!
Measuring the floor area based on outer dimensions, depending on the knee wall height and roof pitch, you’ll end up with around 130 m² (1,400 sq ft) of living space—or maybe less.
That means each of the three new rooms would have about 10 m² (108 sq ft) on average at best. That’s just how it is. And now you want an additional guest bathroom with 4 m² (43 sq ft)... plus the washing machine, which may have been in the basement before, will also need space, along with the storage space you used to have there. All of that takes up part of your house’s footprint and reduces the net living space. Then you’re down to about 8 m² (86 sq ft) per new room. I think that’s less space than you’re used to!
2) Think again about the home office—that’s a luxury in your situation. In my old apartment, I only had the bedroom available. If your partner doesn’t work shift hours, you can get up together (it’s a matter of scheduling!) and the parents’ bedroom usually stays empty during the day. A small workspace can be quickly set up there. That would save you one room.
PS: Are dormer windows allowed?
Tolentino schrieb:
Currently, the three of us live in 84 m² (including half of 2 balconies). With the semi-detached house, the space would not be less at full occupancy, probably more (it's a bit difficult to calculate the net floor area here). So we are more or less used to that. The biggest problem at the moment is that I don’t have a separate home office, which would be available in the semi-detached house.
1) You are probably living in an apartment right now. Let’s say 80 m² (860 sq ft) of actual living space with 3 rooms. You can equate the hallway inside the apartment with the stairwell on the ground floor. But now you have two more hallways and staircases on the upper floors (first and second floors), which already adds up to 15 m² (160 sq ft). Plus 5 m² (54 sq ft) for technical rooms, which you probably had off-site in the basement before. So your house would need to have about 100 m² (1,076 sq ft) already just to offer an equivalent amount of usable space as the
Measuring the floor area based on outer dimensions, depending on the knee wall height and roof pitch, you’ll end up with around 130 m² (1,400 sq ft) of living space—or maybe less.
That means each of the three new rooms would have about 10 m² (108 sq ft) on average at best. That’s just how it is. And now you want an additional guest bathroom with 4 m² (43 sq ft)... plus the washing machine, which may have been in the basement before, will also need space, along with the storage space you used to have there. All of that takes up part of your house’s footprint and reduces the net living space. Then you’re down to about 8 m² (86 sq ft) per new room. I think that’s less space than you’re used to!
2) Think again about the home office—that’s a luxury in your situation. In my old apartment, I only had the bedroom available. If your partner doesn’t work shift hours, you can get up together (it’s a matter of scheduling!) and the parents’ bedroom usually stays empty during the day. A small workspace can be quickly set up there. That would save you one room.
PS: Are dormer windows allowed?
And another aspect that only just occurred to me, probably due to your CAD tool: ask the general contractor directly about the materials used for the exterior walls (brick, facing brick, insulation, thickness). You assumed 40 cm (16 inches) for the masonry, which is realistic for the free-standing side. However, at the party wall, 17 cm (7 inches) plus an air gap, so around 20 cm (8 inches), might already be sufficient. That would give you 20 cm (8 inches) more usable interior width, which would definitely be noticeable and give you some extra space.
Regarding the electrical panel in the utility room: there must always be a clear distance of 1.2 to 1.5 m (4 to 5 feet), depending on the utility provider, around the panel to allow the electrician to work. The washing machine could be placed behind it later since it can be moved if necessary, but a heating unit or water heater in this zone is a no-go!
Regarding the electrical panel in the utility room: there must always be a clear distance of 1.2 to 1.5 m (4 to 5 feet), depending on the utility provider, around the panel to allow the electrician to work. The washing machine could be placed behind it later since it can be moved if necessary, but a heating unit or water heater in this zone is a no-go!
Scout schrieb:
Two more points:
1) You are probably living in an apartment right now. Let’s say it’s 80 m² (860 sq ft) of actual living space with 3 rooms [...]
Depending on the knee wall height and roof pitch, the exterior measurements will translate to about 130 m² (1,400 sq ft) of living space—probably less.
[...] I recalculated. Without the balconies, I have 73 m² (785 sq ft) (yes, apparently I was shortchanged by a few square meters in the apartment). That’s 24.4 m² (262 sq ft) per person. If I assume 125 m² (1,345 sq ft) of pure living space in the house, that’s 25 m² (269 sq ft) per person. Plus about 200 m² (2,150 sq ft) of garden instead of 7 m² (75 sq ft) of balconies. So I think that’s an improvement.Scout schrieb:
2) Reconsider the home office—it’s a luxury in your case. [...]You are probably right for about 95% of families, but for us it’s different. Just assume that our daily routines are shifted by about 6 hours.
Scout schrieb:
PS: Are dormer windows allowed?I have no idea, they weren’t suggested to me, and I didn’t notice any passing by the neighboring properties, but I would assume they exist. There are all kinds of roofs around—from gable to hip to flat roofs—so why not dormers as well.
Scout schrieb:
And another point I just noticed [...]. For the party wall, 17 cm plus a gap, so around 20 cm (8 inches) might already be sufficient. That would give you 20 cm (8 inches) more usable interior width, which would definitely be noticeable and give you more breathing room.Very good point, I will ask about that right away.
Scout schrieb:
Topic electrical panel in the utility room: there must always be a clear space of 1.2 to 1.5 m (4 to 5 feet), depending on the utility provider, in front of the panel for the electrician to work safely.
[...]Thanks for the tip. And how big is such a panel typically? I assumed (W60 x H80 x D30) cm (W24 x H31 x D12 inches) and I now have 131 cm (52 inches) in front of the laundry basket, so it should be fine.
I have another question about the air-to-water heat pump: Is it allowed to be wall-mounted (like a gas boiler)? I have placed it above the buffer tank. But maybe there are regulations that prohibit this?
Thanks and best regards
Tolentino
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