ᐅ Planning kitchen appliances: How to approach it. The market is overwhelming.
Created on: 11 Sep 2017 12:34
G
G-Star1988
Hello everyone,
I have an appointment at the kitchen studio next Saturday and I’m preparing for it. Specifically, I’m looking for the appliances I want to have later in the kitchen. I’ve been researching a lot from brands like Neff / Siemens, Miele, Bora, etc., but I’m not making much progress.
For example, the current selection at Siemens looks like this:
Dishwasher IQ300 SN636X03MD
Oven IQ700 HB634GBS1
Microwave IQ500 HF15M264
Cooktop with integrated downdraft extractor EX801LX34E
or
2 x Cooktop IQ700 EX375FXB1E with extractor IQ700 LF16VA570
(The cooktop with integrated downdraft is the only fixed requirement, unfortunately I don’t have any influence on that ^^)
I actually value quality, energy efficiency, and a balanced price-performance ratio. But how can I find out if what you pick is really good? Or if there are possibly cheaper but equally high-quality products from other manufacturers. For example, the cooktop with integrated downdraft extractor from Miele—according to the catalog, it’s cheaper but just as good or even better?
How do you approach this?
I have an appointment at the kitchen studio next Saturday and I’m preparing for it. Specifically, I’m looking for the appliances I want to have later in the kitchen. I’ve been researching a lot from brands like Neff / Siemens, Miele, Bora, etc., but I’m not making much progress.
For example, the current selection at Siemens looks like this:
Dishwasher IQ300 SN636X03MD
Oven IQ700 HB634GBS1
Microwave IQ500 HF15M264
Cooktop with integrated downdraft extractor EX801LX34E
or
2 x Cooktop IQ700 EX375FXB1E with extractor IQ700 LF16VA570
(The cooktop with integrated downdraft is the only fixed requirement, unfortunately I don’t have any influence on that ^^)
I actually value quality, energy efficiency, and a balanced price-performance ratio. But how can I find out if what you pick is really good? Or if there are possibly cheaper but equally high-quality products from other manufacturers. For example, the cooktop with integrated downdraft extractor from Miele—according to the catalog, it’s cheaper but just as good or even better?
How do you approach this?
D
daniels8721 Nov 2017 23:06In practice, it has often happened to me that one burner was set to boost, while the second burner was turned down from the side. And I have also often missed the fifth burner. I guess it depends on cooking habits.
For me, the connected load is definitely meaningful. With induction, losses are very low. Therefore, even a good cooktop cannot deliver more power than what is stated on the nameplate.
For me, the connected load is definitely meaningful. With induction, losses are very low. Therefore, even a good cooktop cannot deliver more power than what is stated on the nameplate.
K
Knallkörper21 Nov 2017 23:21You did not understand me, maybe it is also not possible for you.
D
daniels8721 Nov 2017 23:37Don’t worry, I’m not trying to speak badly about your Neff. I’ve never seen a Neff from the inside, so I can’t comment on that.
But if I already have three-phase power installed and need a new cooktop anyway, why not.
But if I already have three-phase power installed and need a new cooktop anyway, why not.
C
chand198622 Nov 2017 07:31No one objects to the 5th burner; it’s very useful. It is practical, but only starting at 80cm (31.5 inches) width.
I don’t understand the issue with turning down the power. Running 2 boost functions simultaneously works fine—even with Neff. You just switch briefly to the roasting zone. The difference in heating time due to the “missing” kilowatts is somewhere between negligible and irrelevant.
Once again: When do you actually need that? Do you really have to provide boiling water three times at the same time and against the clock? If so, there was a planning error beforehand...
Otherwise, my advice is: Go for 80cm (31.5 inches). Whether it’s 8 or 11 kW doesn’t make much difference.
I don’t understand the issue with turning down the power. Running 2 boost functions simultaneously works fine—even with Neff. You just switch briefly to the roasting zone. The difference in heating time due to the “missing” kilowatts is somewhere between negligible and irrelevant.
Once again: When do you actually need that? Do you really have to provide boiling water three times at the same time and against the clock? If so, there was a planning error beforehand...
Otherwise, my advice is: Go for 80cm (31.5 inches). Whether it’s 8 or 11 kW doesn’t make much difference.
D
daniels8722 Nov 2017 08:34I’m not disagreeing with that either. I’ve never had a 60cm (24 inches) induction cooktop and probably never will.
For example: the pressure cooker is heating up on boost at the back left. At the front left, something is simmering. The water at the front right is boiling on boost. Now, the large 32cm (13 inches) pan goes on the big zone at the back right... ta-da... now I naturally want boost on the large pan, so I have to turn the water’s boost down to power level 4.
Of course, that’s never a problem. You just reduce the power. But why not take advantage of the higher power if you’re replacing the cooktop anyway? I often find myself in situations where I need both boost and a high power setting at the same time. And a fifth cooking zone. And in my opinion, with a fifth zone, an 11kW cooktop really makes sense.
For example, I also have a Neff oven/steam oven (I love the Slide&Hide feature) and a microwave, and I am very satisfied. It’s just the cooktop where I liked the Siemens model. Two flexible zones, a dedicated zone in the center for my large pan (or the XXL pot for 20 liters (5 gallons) of chili con carne) with its own power setting, and the automatic frying function, which I have already tested and found to be good.
For example: the pressure cooker is heating up on boost at the back left. At the front left, something is simmering. The water at the front right is boiling on boost. Now, the large 32cm (13 inches) pan goes on the big zone at the back right... ta-da... now I naturally want boost on the large pan, so I have to turn the water’s boost down to power level 4.
Of course, that’s never a problem. You just reduce the power. But why not take advantage of the higher power if you’re replacing the cooktop anyway? I often find myself in situations where I need both boost and a high power setting at the same time. And a fifth cooking zone. And in my opinion, with a fifth zone, an 11kW cooktop really makes sense.
For example, I also have a Neff oven/steam oven (I love the Slide&Hide feature) and a microwave, and I am very satisfied. It’s just the cooktop where I liked the Siemens model. Two flexible zones, a dedicated zone in the center for my large pan (or the XXL pot for 20 liters (5 gallons) of chili con carne) with its own power setting, and the automatic frying function, which I have already tested and found to be good.
C
chand198622 Nov 2017 08:58Hello Daniel,
please don’t take this the wrong way, but in my opinion, you see advantages where there are none.
This might be due to a different cooking culture, as I gather from your example. I find it completely unnecessary to use the boost function to heat up both the pressure cooker and the pan in your scenario.
The boost mode is only useful when you need to heat up something quickly and time is limited—like quickly boiling pasta for a sauce that has cooled down or heating water for tea or coffee. When you’re working on three or more cooking zones simultaneously, organization ensures speed, and boost becomes a last resort. Starting to heat up isn’t wasted time if you prepare during that period. You can keep water hot on level 1, operate a pressure cooker at around 2.5, and searing in a pan still doesn’t require boost.
With lids on, all pots simmer well at 2.5 to 3. Boost simply shortens the initial heating time, and if you rely on speed here because you only start cooking after everything is prepared, then your planning wasn’t ideal.
That’s why induction cooktops are good sprinters. I can prepare a menu using four or more burners on older cooktops in the same overall time. The boost function is simply unnecessary for that.
It is mostly used during the week for quick meals—exactly when only one or two cooking zones are in use.
If you have a steam oven, the relevance of the cooktop further decreases.
In conclusion, of course: buy what makes your workflow easiest.
please don’t take this the wrong way, but in my opinion, you see advantages where there are none.
This might be due to a different cooking culture, as I gather from your example. I find it completely unnecessary to use the boost function to heat up both the pressure cooker and the pan in your scenario.
The boost mode is only useful when you need to heat up something quickly and time is limited—like quickly boiling pasta for a sauce that has cooled down or heating water for tea or coffee. When you’re working on three or more cooking zones simultaneously, organization ensures speed, and boost becomes a last resort. Starting to heat up isn’t wasted time if you prepare during that period. You can keep water hot on level 1, operate a pressure cooker at around 2.5, and searing in a pan still doesn’t require boost.
With lids on, all pots simmer well at 2.5 to 3. Boost simply shortens the initial heating time, and if you rely on speed here because you only start cooking after everything is prepared, then your planning wasn’t ideal.
That’s why induction cooktops are good sprinters. I can prepare a menu using four or more burners on older cooktops in the same overall time. The boost function is simply unnecessary for that.
It is mostly used during the week for quick meals—exactly when only one or two cooking zones are in use.
If you have a steam oven, the relevance of the cooktop further decreases.
In conclusion, of course: buy what makes your workflow easiest.
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