ᐅ Planning kitchen appliances: How to approach it. The market is overwhelming.
Created on: 11 Sep 2017 12:34
G
G-Star1988
Hello everyone,
I have an appointment at the kitchen studio next Saturday and I’m preparing for it. Specifically, I’m looking for the appliances I want to have later in the kitchen. I’ve been researching a lot from brands like Neff / Siemens, Miele, Bora, etc., but I’m not making much progress.
For example, the current selection at Siemens looks like this:
Dishwasher IQ300 SN636X03MD
Oven IQ700 HB634GBS1
Microwave IQ500 HF15M264
Cooktop with integrated downdraft extractor EX801LX34E
or
2 x Cooktop IQ700 EX375FXB1E with extractor IQ700 LF16VA570
(The cooktop with integrated downdraft is the only fixed requirement, unfortunately I don’t have any influence on that ^^)
I actually value quality, energy efficiency, and a balanced price-performance ratio. But how can I find out if what you pick is really good? Or if there are possibly cheaper but equally high-quality products from other manufacturers. For example, the cooktop with integrated downdraft extractor from Miele—according to the catalog, it’s cheaper but just as good or even better?
How do you approach this?
I have an appointment at the kitchen studio next Saturday and I’m preparing for it. Specifically, I’m looking for the appliances I want to have later in the kitchen. I’ve been researching a lot from brands like Neff / Siemens, Miele, Bora, etc., but I’m not making much progress.
For example, the current selection at Siemens looks like this:
Dishwasher IQ300 SN636X03MD
Oven IQ700 HB634GBS1
Microwave IQ500 HF15M264
Cooktop with integrated downdraft extractor EX801LX34E
or
2 x Cooktop IQ700 EX375FXB1E with extractor IQ700 LF16VA570
(The cooktop with integrated downdraft is the only fixed requirement, unfortunately I don’t have any influence on that ^^)
I actually value quality, energy efficiency, and a balanced price-performance ratio. But how can I find out if what you pick is really good? Or if there are possibly cheaper but equally high-quality products from other manufacturers. For example, the cooktop with integrated downdraft extractor from Miele—according to the catalog, it’s cheaper but just as good or even better?
How do you approach this?
C
chand198627 Nov 2017 08:21@Alex85
How does it work with multiple cookware on the cooking zones? At what level is there a limit? And does this depend on the type of pans and pots?
I can only confirm your observations.
Something doesn’t seem quite right to me here.
With two boost settings active, the rest is limited to a maximum of 9. The boost on the large roasting zone can be concentrated on half. The power of the distributed setting can’t quite keep up with the individual cooking zones.
I don’t even dare to use cast iron on boost. Even the seasoning process happened at 9. Non-stick pans can lose their coating within minutes when using boost :/.
How does it work with multiple cookware on the cooking zones? At what level is there a limit? And does this depend on the type of pans and pots?
I can only confirm your observations.
Something doesn’t seem quite right to me here.
With two boost settings active, the rest is limited to a maximum of 9. The boost on the large roasting zone can be concentrated on half. The power of the distributed setting can’t quite keep up with the individual cooking zones.
I don’t even dare to use cast iron on boost. Even the seasoning process happened at 9. Non-stick pans can lose their coating within minutes when using boost :/.
Same for me as well (despite 11 kW). I use all my cast iron pans on a maximum of setting 7. The coated aluminum pan (of course with an iron core) can handle a setting of 9 for heating up, but you have to stay nearby and quickly turn it down again – which I rarely do... Boost is only useful for me when boiling water.
You need to be careful with cast iron pans so that the pan is not larger than the induction cooktop. Otherwise, the heating is too concentrated in one spot, which can cause the pans to warp.
In my case, the "sister burner" automatically reduces from Boost to level 7. As mentioned, you can cook very well with cast iron on level 7, while pasta with a lid needs levels 3–4 to continue simmering. So, in practice, this limitation doesn’t really matter.
In my case, the "sister burner" automatically reduces from Boost to level 7. As mentioned, you can cook very well with cast iron on level 7, while pasta with a lid needs levels 3–4 to continue simmering. So, in practice, this limitation doesn’t really matter.
D
daniels8727 Nov 2017 14:44chand1986 schrieb:
Not enough power supply? With a pan of the same size, the coating burned off after 2.5 minutes for me (there was a small accident when a delivery person rang the doorbell). And when I set the cast iron pan to “only” 9 for several minutes, the fat started smoking like crazy. I don’t dare use boost at all. The steak then turns to charcoal.
But this is satire, right?
Does your stove generate the induction field at the same setting and plate with different power levels depending on the cookware used?
If your stove limits power differently with different cookware on different plates at various settings, that has absolutely nothing to do with the power supply—if that’s even true. Then you have a different problem.
That your induction cooktop can even heat aluminum is strongly contradicted by the laws of physics. Whether cheap or expensive doesn’t matter.
Check if you actually have a ceramic glass cooktop…
Where exactly does boost consume 3.2/3.6 = about 89% of a power circuit?
By now, I believe your current stove isn’t working as it should (or could), judging by your stories here.
From my experience with a “simple” 7.5 kW unit, I can report very differently.
And no induction stove in the world works with aluminum. At least steel or iron is embedded. If not, and it still works, it’s not an induction cooktop.Seriously? Do we really have to mention that induction-compatible aluminum pans don’t have a pure aluminum base?
Yes, I have a ceramic glass cooktop. But what does the glass-ceramic plate have to do with how the technology works? Have you ever seen an induction cooktop without glass-ceramic? The thermal conductivity is simply very low, which is why it is ideal for cooktops. And didn’t you see the photo I attached? Doesn’t that look like an induction cooktop?
Take a look at some datasheets; you will see that boost is almost always rated at over 3 kW.
And of course, it depends on the construction of the pan’s base.
The induced voltage is caused by the time-varying magnetic field. The amount of induced power depends on the resistance in the potential gradient of the pan base—and thus also the thermal energy input.
D
daniels8727 Nov 2017 14:59And by the way: every induction cooktop "works" with aluminum. However, the automatic pan detection does not allow it. Aluminum has good electrical conductivity, so it would heat up weakly (and therefore also draw little power, which brings us back to the original topic).
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Knallkörper27 Nov 2017 15:19Well. The fact is, based on your description, something doesn’t quite add up with your cooktop or cookware. So far, the only thing that has been done is trying to identify possible causes for the symptoms you described.
The electrical conductivity of the cookware is only a secondary factor. If anything, lower conductivity is actually better. Without magnetizable material in the pot, the cookware doesn’t generate its own magnetic field. Current can then only flow within the magnetic field of the cooktop coil. This usually works poorly or not at all, depending on the shape of the magnetic field, as it rarely or never fully covers the bottom of the pot. In those cases, only the edges of the field are involved.
The electrical conductivity of the cookware is only a secondary factor. If anything, lower conductivity is actually better. Without magnetizable material in the pot, the cookware doesn’t generate its own magnetic field. Current can then only flow within the magnetic field of the cooktop coil. This usually works poorly or not at all, depending on the shape of the magnetic field, as it rarely or never fully covers the bottom of the pot. In those cases, only the edges of the field are involved.
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