ᐅ Planning kitchen appliances: How to approach it. The market is overwhelming.

Created on: 11 Sep 2017 12:34
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G-Star1988
Hello everyone,

I have an appointment at the kitchen studio next Saturday and I’m preparing for it. Specifically, I’m looking for the appliances I want to have later in the kitchen. I’ve been researching a lot from brands like Neff / Siemens, Miele, Bora, etc., but I’m not making much progress.

For example, the current selection at Siemens looks like this:

Dishwasher IQ300 SN636X03MD
Oven IQ700 HB634GBS1
Microwave IQ500 HF15M264
Cooktop with integrated downdraft extractor EX801LX34E
or
2 x Cooktop IQ700 EX375FXB1E with extractor IQ700 LF16VA570

(The cooktop with integrated downdraft is the only fixed requirement, unfortunately I don’t have any influence on that ^^)

I actually value quality, energy efficiency, and a balanced price-performance ratio. But how can I find out if what you pick is really good? Or if there are possibly cheaper but equally high-quality products from other manufacturers. For example, the cooktop with integrated downdraft extractor from Miele—according to the catalog, it’s cheaper but just as good or even better?

How do you approach this?
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daniels87
27 Nov 2017 15:53
Knallkörper schrieb:
Well, the fact is that based on your description, something doesn’t quite add up with your cooktop or your cookware. The only thing that has been attempted so far is to identify possible causes for the symptoms you described.

The electrical conductivity of the cookware is only of secondary importance. If anything, lower conductivity is actually better. Without magnetizable material in the pot, the cookware has no “own” magnetic field. Current can then only flow within the magnetic field generated by the cooktop coil. This works poorly or not at all, depending on the shape of the magnetic field; it rarely or never fully covers the bottom of the pot. And in that case, it is only fringe areas of the field.

Goodness! I’m out! This should simply be left as is. This is what happens when laypeople with half-knowledge think they understand how an induction cooktop works.

A low resistance in the pot bottom is NOT better, because low resistance produces little heat loss!

And almost ALL defective induction cooktops that have come to me had a faulty power module. Only one had damage on the power supply board.
With three power modules, each module is less stressed under the same cooking conditions. The IGBTs (Insulated-Gate Bipolar Transistors) appreciate this, since they tend to fail under high load. Especially with my large pan—the power module is almost always at its limit, even when the second pot is on a low setting.
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Deliverer
27 Nov 2017 16:12
Knallkörper schrieb:
If so, then a lower conductivity is naturally better.
daniels87 schrieb:
A low resistance in the pan base is NOT better,...

You all agree, you just don’t realize it yet!
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Knallkörper
27 Nov 2017 16:23
Well, I can already differentiate between the units Siemens and Ohm.

Now the original poster comes along with stories from their cooktop workshop, and I can't keep up with my "half-knowledge."
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chand1986
27 Nov 2017 17:27
daniels87 schrieb:
Yes, I have a glass-ceramic cooktop. But what does the glass-ceramic surface have to do with how the technology works?

In everyday language, electric cooktops with heating coils under a glass surface are simply called "Ceran cooktops."
daniels87 schrieb:
Seriously? Do you really need to point out that induction-compatible aluminum pans don’t have a pure aluminum base?

Not really. But your explanation was quite odd, and that detail stood out.
daniels87 schrieb:
And of course, it depends on the construction of the pan’s base. The induced voltage is caused by the changing magnetic field over time. The amount of induced power depends on the resistance in the potential difference across the pan base, and therefore also on the thermal energy input.

The pan base is not a classical electrical load that carries current for potential equalization. The high resistance results from the small "conductor cross-section" for the induced eddy currents since only the outermost layer of the pan base carries them (skin effect).

The coil in the cooktop must still draw power according to its power level—but the efficiency of converting this power into heat depends on the pan’s material and size.
Deliverer schrieb:
You all agree, you just don’t realize it yet!

Funny thing. If you think others are laypersons, maybe you don’t read carefully anymore...

The core question remains unanswered: Why does a professional’s cooktop require at least one pan to be on boost for several minutes to “get up to speed”? When I do that, the pan ends up hot and ruined. Is that because of improper amateur boosting?
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Alex85
27 Nov 2017 18:45
Beyond the laws of physics, the described behavior on daniel's cooktop is not understandable.
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daniels87
27 Nov 2017 20:05
I apologize. My comment was inappropriate and arrogant.

The explanation about the skin effect is correct, but it still depends on the material. The effect also occurs with aluminum and primarily depends on the frequency. So it is related to the fact that the cooktop is modulated at a high frequency.

No, a pan with a "good" base results in higher efficiency of the cooktop at the same setting. I can demonstrate this with a measurement over the weekend. And surely, it makes a difference whether I use a 26cm (10 inch) pot with a lid or sear food sharply in a 40cm (16 inch) pan with a large amount of contents for a few minutes.