Hello,
I am currently planning an IKEA kitchen and have already received all the parts at home. Before I start next week, I reviewed all the steps and aspects again and realized I have a few unresolved questions. In particular, I think I might have an issue with the rail mounting for the base cabinets.
The IKEA Metod instructions indicate that the rail should be screwed in with its bottom edge at 82 cm (32 inches) above the kitchen floor. However, at about 84–85 cm (33–33.5 inches) above the floor, there is a tile backsplash starting, and I also plan to install laminate flooring, which will add some extra height.
This means I’m concerned that I might have to remove the bottom row of tiles (which would probably involve some discussion with my landlord). Alternatively, I would need to try attaching a board over the tiles to mount the rail on (if that is even possible).
Does anyone with more experience with Metod have any advice?
I am currently planning an IKEA kitchen and have already received all the parts at home. Before I start next week, I reviewed all the steps and aspects again and realized I have a few unresolved questions. In particular, I think I might have an issue with the rail mounting for the base cabinets.
The IKEA Metod instructions indicate that the rail should be screwed in with its bottom edge at 82 cm (32 inches) above the kitchen floor. However, at about 84–85 cm (33–33.5 inches) above the floor, there is a tile backsplash starting, and I also plan to install laminate flooring, which will add some extra height.
This means I’m concerned that I might have to remove the bottom row of tiles (which would probably involve some discussion with my landlord). Alternatively, I would need to try attaching a board over the tiles to mount the rail on (if that is even possible).
Does anyone with more experience with Metod have any advice?
I
IKEA-Experte24 Jan 2015 18:48Hello,
Laminate flooring in the kitchen? Well...
I wouldn’t rule out tiles. You can install the rail on top of the tiles or skip the rail altogether.
Laminate flooring in the kitchen? Well...
I wouldn’t rule out tiles. You can install the rail on top of the tiles or skip the rail altogether.
Hmm, I hadn’t considered drilling into the tiles yet. Thanks for the tip. I’ll need to check if that’s even possible, especially since the installation makes it more complicated (see image below). Maybe it’s possible to support the tiles underneath with a thin wooden strip and drill between them.
Another idea I had was whether it would be possible to skip the mounting altogether by using more support feet, like those used for kitchen islands. The tiled backsplash extends about 2.5 meters (8 feet) into the room but then stops, so the mounting could be done easily on the rest of the wall.
At this point, a big thank you again for this forum! It’s such a vast knowledge base and help is always great.
PS: Regarding the laminate flooring: I’m aware it’s not ideal. I would have preferred to install vinyl flooring, but since we will probably only live in this rental apartment for about three years, I didn’t want to spend 300–400 EUR.
Another idea I had was whether it would be possible to skip the mounting altogether by using more support feet, like those used for kitchen islands. The tiled backsplash extends about 2.5 meters (8 feet) into the room but then stops, so the mounting could be done easily on the rest of the wall.
At this point, a big thank you again for this forum! It’s such a vast knowledge base and help is always great.
PS: Regarding the laminate flooring: I’m aware it’s not ideal. I would have preferred to install vinyl flooring, but since we will probably only live in this rental apartment for about three years, I didn’t want to spend 300–400 EUR.
I
IKEA-Experte25 Jan 2015 12:09Does the kitchen have no flooring? Tiles are the best option for both environmental reasons and health. You can get PVC sheet flooring starting from €3 per m² (approximately $3 per sq ft). It’s not more expensive than laminate, but with the plasticizers and dioxins released when burned, vinyl isn’t great either.
By completely skipping the wall rail, I meant just placing four feet under the cabinet and that’s it. Aligning the rear feet is a bit tricky, but with some common sense, it’s possible. Ikea strongly recommends anchoring the cabinets. I have always skipped that step myself. When several cabinets are screwed together, have a heavy countertop on top, and not all drawers are pulled out at the same time, nothing will tip over. Ikea obviously needs to be cautious and assumes some people might act without any common sense.
By completely skipping the wall rail, I meant just placing four feet under the cabinet and that’s it. Aligning the rear feet is a bit tricky, but with some common sense, it’s possible. Ikea strongly recommends anchoring the cabinets. I have always skipped that step myself. When several cabinets are screwed together, have a heavy countertop on top, and not all drawers are pulled out at the same time, nothing will tip over. Ikea obviously needs to be cautious and assumes some people might act without any common sense.
We had the same issue in our kitchen. Since we only have drawers in the base cabinets, I didn’t want to skip anchoring them.
We placed the cabinets on feet at both front and back, omitted the mounting rail, and anchored the cabinets directly to the wall without the rail. Ikea also allows installation without the rail, using plastic spacers in the mounting brackets. In this setup, the wall drill holes are slightly deeper than they would be for the rail.
In our case, the holes in the wall are located just below the backsplash tiles. This means part of the mounting bracket rests on the tile. I tightened the cabinets by hand just enough to avoid damaging the tiles, but firmly enough to prevent any movement and especially to ensure they cannot tip forward.
We placed the cabinets on feet at both front and back, omitted the mounting rail, and anchored the cabinets directly to the wall without the rail. Ikea also allows installation without the rail, using plastic spacers in the mounting brackets. In this setup, the wall drill holes are slightly deeper than they would be for the rail.
In our case, the holes in the wall are located just below the backsplash tiles. This means part of the mounting bracket rests on the tile. I tightened the cabinets by hand just enough to avoid damaging the tiles, but firmly enough to prevent any movement and especially to ensure they cannot tip forward.
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