ᐅ Terraced Corner House Floor Plan in Development – Any Suggestions for Changes?
Created on: 20 Aug 2022 21:05
B
Bauherrin123
Hello dear forum members,
we are building an end-terrace house measuring 7 by 10 m (23 by 33 ft) without a basement. It will have 2 full floors and an attic above. Now the question is which roof we should have. I was shown a house with a 38-degree gable roof without a knee wall, which I found very nice in terms of the feeling of space. Now we have been informed that only a 35-degree gable roof is allowed for us, but with a 30 cm (12 inches) knee wall. What I didn’t realize was that our attic has a maximum height of only 63 cm (25 inches). So the attic space is very low. Now I have no basement and hardly any storage space and I’m a bit frustrated because the building permit application is now in front of me. I initially agreed that this was okay, but I would prefer a 1 m (3 ft) knee wall. The development plan only allows a maximum of 30 cm (12 inches). I’m really unsure what to choose... I don’t want to spend unnecessary money if it doesn’t make a big difference since we have a very large plot and can build storage in the garage, barn, or garden house...
What would you do?
A. 38-degree gable roof or
B. 35-degree gable roof with 30 cm (12 inches) knee wall or
C. 35-degree gable roof with 1 m (3 ft) knee wall, applying to the city office...
We would need to submit a request to the building authority to increase the knee wall to 1 m (3 ft), which would mean more effort, bureaucracy, and delays... I don’t know what it would cost or if it’s even possible, but it’s weighing on my mind because I only read online about people who built houses with a knee wall on the attic. The extra cost of $3,000–$5,000, if that’s roughly the amount, would be worth it to me if it creates nicer rooms and I get a higher attic for storage.
The second problem is that the plot is much lower than street level. We are paying an extra €10,000 to fill the plot with gravel up to street level. Now the house will be built just slightly above street level, so there will be a step at the entrance. There will be a total of 3 terraced houses, and we have the end house. In our row, two finished terraced houses from other builders are already standing next to ours. However, these are built 1 m (3 ft) above street level with 3 or 4 steps higher, so they probably look taller overall. I find this visually unappealing and also, personally, I want our house to be higher.
What are your thoughts on this?
I’m also uploading my floor plan, which I think is finished. I don’t understand how high the ceilings are; can someone tell from the plans? Inside the rooms, how high are they? And generally, do you notice anything about the floor plan?
My building permit application is ready, but I want to change it after all. It doesn’t suit me, and I’m sure it will cause trouble with the company if they have to make changes for us, but I want to be able to decide again and just need some feedback here.
Looking forward to your support!
Best regards
we are building an end-terrace house measuring 7 by 10 m (23 by 33 ft) without a basement. It will have 2 full floors and an attic above. Now the question is which roof we should have. I was shown a house with a 38-degree gable roof without a knee wall, which I found very nice in terms of the feeling of space. Now we have been informed that only a 35-degree gable roof is allowed for us, but with a 30 cm (12 inches) knee wall. What I didn’t realize was that our attic has a maximum height of only 63 cm (25 inches). So the attic space is very low. Now I have no basement and hardly any storage space and I’m a bit frustrated because the building permit application is now in front of me. I initially agreed that this was okay, but I would prefer a 1 m (3 ft) knee wall. The development plan only allows a maximum of 30 cm (12 inches). I’m really unsure what to choose... I don’t want to spend unnecessary money if it doesn’t make a big difference since we have a very large plot and can build storage in the garage, barn, or garden house...
What would you do?
A. 38-degree gable roof or
B. 35-degree gable roof with 30 cm (12 inches) knee wall or
C. 35-degree gable roof with 1 m (3 ft) knee wall, applying to the city office...
We would need to submit a request to the building authority to increase the knee wall to 1 m (3 ft), which would mean more effort, bureaucracy, and delays... I don’t know what it would cost or if it’s even possible, but it’s weighing on my mind because I only read online about people who built houses with a knee wall on the attic. The extra cost of $3,000–$5,000, if that’s roughly the amount, would be worth it to me if it creates nicer rooms and I get a higher attic for storage.
The second problem is that the plot is much lower than street level. We are paying an extra €10,000 to fill the plot with gravel up to street level. Now the house will be built just slightly above street level, so there will be a step at the entrance. There will be a total of 3 terraced houses, and we have the end house. In our row, two finished terraced houses from other builders are already standing next to ours. However, these are built 1 m (3 ft) above street level with 3 or 4 steps higher, so they probably look taller overall. I find this visually unappealing and also, personally, I want our house to be higher.
What are your thoughts on this?
I’m also uploading my floor plan, which I think is finished. I don’t understand how high the ceilings are; can someone tell from the plans? Inside the rooms, how high are they? And generally, do you notice anything about the floor plan?
My building permit application is ready, but I want to change it after all. It doesn’t suit me, and I’m sure it will cause trouble with the company if they have to make changes for us, but I want to be able to decide again and just need some feedback here.
Looking forward to your support!
Best regards
B
Bauherrin12318 Oct 2022 07:43Würfel* schrieb:
You don’t need a ceiling height of 272 cm (107 inches) in the attic. As @kbt09 already mentioned, around 245 cm (96 inches) is sufficient. So, you lower the attic floor, which gives you more headroom at the top. Specifically: with a ceiling height of 245 cm (96 inches), you get 27 cm (11 inches) more space in the attic — 90 cm (35 inches) instead of 63 cm (25 inches).
[ATTACH alt="grundriss-reiheneckhaus-in-planung-aenderungsvorschlaege-592114-1.png"]74279[/ATTACH] I don’t understand why this wouldn’t work well?
B
Bauherrin12318 Oct 2022 07:4611ant schrieb:
If I remember correctly, you are a Hildmann buyer. I recall seeing in another thread that one of the usual suspects (Weisenburgerwernerwengerter) mentioned the option to lower the ceiling between the first floor and attic. I’m not sure if your provider would do that as well – but I don’t see any benefit worth the extra effort and risk here.
As a loyal reader, you should have already noticed my warnings here and on bauen-jetzt (the site has changed domain) against doing extensive customizations beyond minor tweaks in developer-built homes.
Definitely avoid that. The heating manifold is the core of the heating pipe layout and therefore the last place where you should have ambitions to deviate from the house design. Having it central and easily accessible “does no harm.” You will only open the “cover” occasionally once the system is properly calibrated. It couldn’t be less conspicuous anywhere else. Even painted in 11ant yellow, it wouldn’t really stand out.No, I’m building with a completely different developer, you’re mixing me up. This small heating box is a narrow case located on the ground floor under the stairs, on the first floor behind the bedroom door, and in the attic to the right just after entering the laundry room. Could you compare the two laundry rooms to see if there are any differences? I posted two pictures side by side.
B
Bertram10018 Oct 2022 07:48I find a room lit only by spotlights to be uncomfortable. A kitchen like that would look like a showroom kitchen to me. There are always loads of spotlights there. I don’t find that cozy.
I only have spotlights in my practice room and find it terrible. That was a planning mistake on my part. Now I’ve improved the room with floor and desk lamps, and it looks much better.
I only have spotlights in my practice room and find it terrible. That was a planning mistake on my part. Now I’ve improved the room with floor and desk lamps, and it looks much better.
Spots of that size are completely inappropriate. We had them installed in the bathroom and bedroom 9 years ago… Now, in the bedroom, I regret having that nonsense up there. @kbt09 is referring to task lighting… maybe you should reread your own thread and try to understand it better. Also: I have been typing on my phone with my thick fingers for 10 years… Posts and words can be corrected. Please skim through your posts before sending them and correct any mistakes as a courtesy to us.
P.S.: Our ceiling height in the attic is 2.35 meters (7 ft 9 in).
P.S.: Our ceiling height in the attic is 2.35 meters (7 ft 9 in).
B
Bauherrin12318 Oct 2022 08:19I don’t understand the ceiling height issue. Why does the architect tell me it can’t be made lower? A ceiling height of 2.35 m (7 ft 9 in) on the attic floor would actually provide more space in the storage area and more height, wouldn’t it?
Bauherrin123 schrieb:
I don’t understand the ceiling height issue; why is the architect telling me it cannot be lowered.Could it be that the roof structure is validated by a standard structural calculation, and any changes require a new structural assessment.Similar topics