ᐅ Terraced Corner House Floor Plan in Development – Any Suggestions for Changes?
Created on: 20 Aug 2022 21:05
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Bauherrin123
Hello dear forum members,
we are building an end-terrace house measuring 7 by 10 m (23 by 33 ft) without a basement. It will have 2 full floors and an attic above. Now the question is which roof we should have. I was shown a house with a 38-degree gable roof without a knee wall, which I found very nice in terms of the feeling of space. Now we have been informed that only a 35-degree gable roof is allowed for us, but with a 30 cm (12 inches) knee wall. What I didn’t realize was that our attic has a maximum height of only 63 cm (25 inches). So the attic space is very low. Now I have no basement and hardly any storage space and I’m a bit frustrated because the building permit application is now in front of me. I initially agreed that this was okay, but I would prefer a 1 m (3 ft) knee wall. The development plan only allows a maximum of 30 cm (12 inches). I’m really unsure what to choose... I don’t want to spend unnecessary money if it doesn’t make a big difference since we have a very large plot and can build storage in the garage, barn, or garden house...
What would you do?
A. 38-degree gable roof or
B. 35-degree gable roof with 30 cm (12 inches) knee wall or
C. 35-degree gable roof with 1 m (3 ft) knee wall, applying to the city office...
We would need to submit a request to the building authority to increase the knee wall to 1 m (3 ft), which would mean more effort, bureaucracy, and delays... I don’t know what it would cost or if it’s even possible, but it’s weighing on my mind because I only read online about people who built houses with a knee wall on the attic. The extra cost of $3,000–$5,000, if that’s roughly the amount, would be worth it to me if it creates nicer rooms and I get a higher attic for storage.
The second problem is that the plot is much lower than street level. We are paying an extra €10,000 to fill the plot with gravel up to street level. Now the house will be built just slightly above street level, so there will be a step at the entrance. There will be a total of 3 terraced houses, and we have the end house. In our row, two finished terraced houses from other builders are already standing next to ours. However, these are built 1 m (3 ft) above street level with 3 or 4 steps higher, so they probably look taller overall. I find this visually unappealing and also, personally, I want our house to be higher.
What are your thoughts on this?
I’m also uploading my floor plan, which I think is finished. I don’t understand how high the ceilings are; can someone tell from the plans? Inside the rooms, how high are they? And generally, do you notice anything about the floor plan?
My building permit application is ready, but I want to change it after all. It doesn’t suit me, and I’m sure it will cause trouble with the company if they have to make changes for us, but I want to be able to decide again and just need some feedback here.
Looking forward to your support!
Best regards
we are building an end-terrace house measuring 7 by 10 m (23 by 33 ft) without a basement. It will have 2 full floors and an attic above. Now the question is which roof we should have. I was shown a house with a 38-degree gable roof without a knee wall, which I found very nice in terms of the feeling of space. Now we have been informed that only a 35-degree gable roof is allowed for us, but with a 30 cm (12 inches) knee wall. What I didn’t realize was that our attic has a maximum height of only 63 cm (25 inches). So the attic space is very low. Now I have no basement and hardly any storage space and I’m a bit frustrated because the building permit application is now in front of me. I initially agreed that this was okay, but I would prefer a 1 m (3 ft) knee wall. The development plan only allows a maximum of 30 cm (12 inches). I’m really unsure what to choose... I don’t want to spend unnecessary money if it doesn’t make a big difference since we have a very large plot and can build storage in the garage, barn, or garden house...
What would you do?
A. 38-degree gable roof or
B. 35-degree gable roof with 30 cm (12 inches) knee wall or
C. 35-degree gable roof with 1 m (3 ft) knee wall, applying to the city office...
We would need to submit a request to the building authority to increase the knee wall to 1 m (3 ft), which would mean more effort, bureaucracy, and delays... I don’t know what it would cost or if it’s even possible, but it’s weighing on my mind because I only read online about people who built houses with a knee wall on the attic. The extra cost of $3,000–$5,000, if that’s roughly the amount, would be worth it to me if it creates nicer rooms and I get a higher attic for storage.
The second problem is that the plot is much lower than street level. We are paying an extra €10,000 to fill the plot with gravel up to street level. Now the house will be built just slightly above street level, so there will be a step at the entrance. There will be a total of 3 terraced houses, and we have the end house. In our row, two finished terraced houses from other builders are already standing next to ours. However, these are built 1 m (3 ft) above street level with 3 or 4 steps higher, so they probably look taller overall. I find this visually unappealing and also, personally, I want our house to be higher.
What are your thoughts on this?
I’m also uploading my floor plan, which I think is finished. I don’t understand how high the ceilings are; can someone tell from the plans? Inside the rooms, how high are they? And generally, do you notice anything about the floor plan?
My building permit application is ready, but I want to change it after all. It doesn’t suit me, and I’m sure it will cause trouble with the company if they have to make changes for us, but I want to be able to decide again and just need some feedback here.
Looking forward to your support!
Best regards
B
Bauherrin12323 Oct 2022 23:54This is the house of an acquaintance. I am supposed to get the same design, just with a slightly different roof pitch... he has 38 degrees, I have 35 degrees plus a 30cm (12 inches) knee wall. Otherwise, the ceilings should be the same height everywhere, right? I don’t understand why the acquaintance has an attic space with a height of 120cm (47 inches), but it’s not possible for me... I visited his house, he measured it... I will also ask him about the ceiling heights in the basement and upper floor... according to the plans, we have the same heights... I thought they were acceptable, and we can’t change them anyway.
The house is 10 cm (4 inches) taller, and I don’t see 120 cm (47 inches) at the attic peak; I’m not sure where you got that number from.
You should take a few minutes to carefully understand all these height measurements.
Regarding the sill height... If you want a 96 cm (38 inches) working height, I would calculate a finished floor sill height of 92 cm (36 inches). If the countertop ends up being slightly less than 4 cm (1.5 inches) thick, it can be adjusted with some underlay. It’s also important that with a 92 cm (36 inches) finished floor sill height, the window frame rebate allows for at least a 4 cm (1.5 inches) thick countertop and that the window sash can still be opened comfortably.
You should take a few minutes to carefully understand all these height measurements.
Regarding the sill height... If you want a 96 cm (38 inches) working height, I would calculate a finished floor sill height of 92 cm (36 inches). If the countertop ends up being slightly less than 4 cm (1.5 inches) thick, it can be adjusted with some underlay. It’s also important that with a 92 cm (36 inches) finished floor sill height, the window frame rebate allows for at least a 4 cm (1.5 inches) thick countertop and that the window sash can still be opened comfortably.
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Bauherrin12324 Oct 2022 00:13Regarding the storage height, it was measured on site, and it is 120cm (47 inches) high. He measured it three times for us. According to the plan, it doesn't have this height, but on site, it does.
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Bauherrin12324 Oct 2022 00:20kbt09 schrieb:
The house is 10cm (4 inches) higher, and I don’t see that there are 120cm (47 inches) at the attic ridge—I don’t know where you got that value from.
You should take a few minutes to fully understand all these height measurements.
Regarding the window sill height… If you want a 96cm (38 inches) working height, I would calculate a finished floor window sill height of 92cm (36 inches). If the countertop ends up being a bit thinner than 4cm (1.5 inches), it can be built up later. It’s also important that with a 92cm (36 inches) finished floor window sill height, the window frame allows for at least a 4cm (1.5 inches) thick countertop and that the window sash can still be opened comfortably. Thanks, finally someone who understands my issue with the window sill height. I’ve asked 10 kitchen specialists and 5 architects, but no one could really explain it properly. What matters to me is considering everything so that the finished height ends up between 94 and 96cm (37 and 38 inches), definitely not lower. This is also what I’ve been trying to say all along—that the frame must fit accordingly so that the countertop fits in, but none of the specialists understand this.
So, if I tell the architect to plan for 92cm (36 inches) from the finished floor and that the window frame should allow for a 4cm (1.5 inches) countertop, can I later use a thinner countertop? Yes, right?
I want to have some buffer in case the construction isn’t exact; I’d rather have the window a bit higher than too low… I also don’t really know if the 1.5cm (0.6 inches) floor height works out. And as the architect calculated above, there should be some tolerance, right?
Bauherrin123 schrieb:
So if I tell the architect to set 92cm (36 inches) from the finished floor and to leave a 4cm (1.5 inches) false frame for the countertop, can I later use a thinner countertop? Right?Yes, then the countertop in the window sill will need to be supported from underneath to maintain the 96cm (38 inches) working height. But that is not a problem.
kbt09 schrieb:
It is also important that with a finished floor sill height of 92 cm (36 inches), the window frame profile allows for a worktop thickness of at least 4 cm (1.6 inches) and that the window sash can still be opened comfortably. For the kitchen window, I would suggest adding a fixed glazed bottom section of about 20 cm (8 inches) below the casement sash: this way, items like sugar jars and herb pots won’t interfere with opening the window.
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