ᐅ Terraced Corner House Floor Plan in Development – Any Suggestions for Changes?
Created on: 20 Aug 2022 21:05
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Bauherrin123
Hello dear forum members,
we are building an end-terrace house measuring 7 by 10 m (23 by 33 ft) without a basement. It will have 2 full floors and an attic above. Now the question is which roof we should have. I was shown a house with a 38-degree gable roof without a knee wall, which I found very nice in terms of the feeling of space. Now we have been informed that only a 35-degree gable roof is allowed for us, but with a 30 cm (12 inches) knee wall. What I didn’t realize was that our attic has a maximum height of only 63 cm (25 inches). So the attic space is very low. Now I have no basement and hardly any storage space and I’m a bit frustrated because the building permit application is now in front of me. I initially agreed that this was okay, but I would prefer a 1 m (3 ft) knee wall. The development plan only allows a maximum of 30 cm (12 inches). I’m really unsure what to choose... I don’t want to spend unnecessary money if it doesn’t make a big difference since we have a very large plot and can build storage in the garage, barn, or garden house...
What would you do?
A. 38-degree gable roof or
B. 35-degree gable roof with 30 cm (12 inches) knee wall or
C. 35-degree gable roof with 1 m (3 ft) knee wall, applying to the city office...
We would need to submit a request to the building authority to increase the knee wall to 1 m (3 ft), which would mean more effort, bureaucracy, and delays... I don’t know what it would cost or if it’s even possible, but it’s weighing on my mind because I only read online about people who built houses with a knee wall on the attic. The extra cost of $3,000–$5,000, if that’s roughly the amount, would be worth it to me if it creates nicer rooms and I get a higher attic for storage.
The second problem is that the plot is much lower than street level. We are paying an extra €10,000 to fill the plot with gravel up to street level. Now the house will be built just slightly above street level, so there will be a step at the entrance. There will be a total of 3 terraced houses, and we have the end house. In our row, two finished terraced houses from other builders are already standing next to ours. However, these are built 1 m (3 ft) above street level with 3 or 4 steps higher, so they probably look taller overall. I find this visually unappealing and also, personally, I want our house to be higher.
What are your thoughts on this?
I’m also uploading my floor plan, which I think is finished. I don’t understand how high the ceilings are; can someone tell from the plans? Inside the rooms, how high are they? And generally, do you notice anything about the floor plan?
My building permit application is ready, but I want to change it after all. It doesn’t suit me, and I’m sure it will cause trouble with the company if they have to make changes for us, but I want to be able to decide again and just need some feedback here.
Looking forward to your support!
Best regards




we are building an end-terrace house measuring 7 by 10 m (23 by 33 ft) without a basement. It will have 2 full floors and an attic above. Now the question is which roof we should have. I was shown a house with a 38-degree gable roof without a knee wall, which I found very nice in terms of the feeling of space. Now we have been informed that only a 35-degree gable roof is allowed for us, but with a 30 cm (12 inches) knee wall. What I didn’t realize was that our attic has a maximum height of only 63 cm (25 inches). So the attic space is very low. Now I have no basement and hardly any storage space and I’m a bit frustrated because the building permit application is now in front of me. I initially agreed that this was okay, but I would prefer a 1 m (3 ft) knee wall. The development plan only allows a maximum of 30 cm (12 inches). I’m really unsure what to choose... I don’t want to spend unnecessary money if it doesn’t make a big difference since we have a very large plot and can build storage in the garage, barn, or garden house...
What would you do?
A. 38-degree gable roof or
B. 35-degree gable roof with 30 cm (12 inches) knee wall or
C. 35-degree gable roof with 1 m (3 ft) knee wall, applying to the city office...
We would need to submit a request to the building authority to increase the knee wall to 1 m (3 ft), which would mean more effort, bureaucracy, and delays... I don’t know what it would cost or if it’s even possible, but it’s weighing on my mind because I only read online about people who built houses with a knee wall on the attic. The extra cost of $3,000–$5,000, if that’s roughly the amount, would be worth it to me if it creates nicer rooms and I get a higher attic for storage.
The second problem is that the plot is much lower than street level. We are paying an extra €10,000 to fill the plot with gravel up to street level. Now the house will be built just slightly above street level, so there will be a step at the entrance. There will be a total of 3 terraced houses, and we have the end house. In our row, two finished terraced houses from other builders are already standing next to ours. However, these are built 1 m (3 ft) above street level with 3 or 4 steps higher, so they probably look taller overall. I find this visually unappealing and also, personally, I want our house to be higher.
What are your thoughts on this?
I’m also uploading my floor plan, which I think is finished. I don’t understand how high the ceilings are; can someone tell from the plans? Inside the rooms, how high are they? And generally, do you notice anything about the floor plan?
My building permit application is ready, but I want to change it after all. It doesn’t suit me, and I’m sure it will cause trouble with the company if they have to make changes for us, but I want to be able to decide again and just need some feedback here.
Looking forward to your support!
Best regards
K a t j a schrieb:
Yes, of course, you can’t create a room underneath on the ground floor, which is probably why there’s little interest in that. It’s also possible with simple risers.
ypg schrieb:
This can also be done with simple risers.What do you mean by that? If she wants an open staircase, then there wouldn’t be risers, right?K a t j a schrieb:
What do you mean by that? If she wants an open staircase, then surely not with risers, right?To be honest, I can’t really follow the original poster’s writing. It’s too confusing. So I assume that a standard staircase is simply planned – which is usually open (I am familiar with plenty of construction specifications). In that case, having risers would be an option.B
Bauherrin12322 Aug 2022 21:33ypg schrieb:
To be honest, I can’t really follow the OP’s writing. It’s too confusing. So I assume it’s just a standard staircase being planned – which is usually open (I’m familiar with enough construction specifications). And then the option would be risers. Sorry for my confusing posts, I’m trying to write more clearly. I’m writing from my phone, which makes it a bit more complicated. I’m attaching a picture from our construction specifications showing how the staircase will look. Yes, regarding using the space under the staircase, it’s not possible—I just didn’t manage to comment on that yet because I was still planning and considering it.... I want to keep the staircase open, and honestly, I haven’t fully understood how the staircase could be changed to allow a large door there.
Bauherrin123 schrieb:
Sorry for my confusing posts, No problem 🙂
Bauherrin123 schrieb:
how the staircase can be changed so that the door can fit in there properly. That would need to be closed off by the drywall installer. Additionally, the steps should be fitted with risers (these are the vertical boards).
This would create some extra storage space.
In the living area, as in your case, an open staircase usually looks nicer.
B
Bauherrin12322 Aug 2022 21:53ypg schrieb:
No problem 🙂
A drywall installer would need to close that off. Additionally, the steps need to be closed with risers (these are the vertical boards).
This way, you gain a storage space.
In the living area, like yours, an open staircase just looks nicer. Yes, and since I sometimes admit that the look is more important to me than practicality, I definitely want the open staircase. So, the staircase option isn’t feasible after all? The staircase should be in a gray tone, but I am not sure which one yet. Someone upstairs was surprised... I want the entire house to be white and gray. So white doors with gray handles, gray wooden stairs. I saw a black staircase at some friends’ place, which also looked nice, but the dust shows up clearly there, so gray would be better. But that’s a matter of taste. First, I need to sort out the door situation without changing the staircase. I have an appointment with the architect on Wednesday, so I have time until then...
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