ᐅ Terraced Corner House Floor Plan in Development – Any Suggestions for Changes?
Created on: 20 Aug 2022 21:05
B
Bauherrin123
Hello dear forum members,
we are building an end-terrace house measuring 7 by 10 m (23 by 33 ft) without a basement. It will have 2 full floors and an attic above. Now the question is which roof we should have. I was shown a house with a 38-degree gable roof without a knee wall, which I found very nice in terms of the feeling of space. Now we have been informed that only a 35-degree gable roof is allowed for us, but with a 30 cm (12 inches) knee wall. What I didn’t realize was that our attic has a maximum height of only 63 cm (25 inches). So the attic space is very low. Now I have no basement and hardly any storage space and I’m a bit frustrated because the building permit application is now in front of me. I initially agreed that this was okay, but I would prefer a 1 m (3 ft) knee wall. The development plan only allows a maximum of 30 cm (12 inches). I’m really unsure what to choose... I don’t want to spend unnecessary money if it doesn’t make a big difference since we have a very large plot and can build storage in the garage, barn, or garden house...
What would you do?
A. 38-degree gable roof or
B. 35-degree gable roof with 30 cm (12 inches) knee wall or
C. 35-degree gable roof with 1 m (3 ft) knee wall, applying to the city office...
We would need to submit a request to the building authority to increase the knee wall to 1 m (3 ft), which would mean more effort, bureaucracy, and delays... I don’t know what it would cost or if it’s even possible, but it’s weighing on my mind because I only read online about people who built houses with a knee wall on the attic. The extra cost of $3,000–$5,000, if that’s roughly the amount, would be worth it to me if it creates nicer rooms and I get a higher attic for storage.
The second problem is that the plot is much lower than street level. We are paying an extra €10,000 to fill the plot with gravel up to street level. Now the house will be built just slightly above street level, so there will be a step at the entrance. There will be a total of 3 terraced houses, and we have the end house. In our row, two finished terraced houses from other builders are already standing next to ours. However, these are built 1 m (3 ft) above street level with 3 or 4 steps higher, so they probably look taller overall. I find this visually unappealing and also, personally, I want our house to be higher.
What are your thoughts on this?
I’m also uploading my floor plan, which I think is finished. I don’t understand how high the ceilings are; can someone tell from the plans? Inside the rooms, how high are they? And generally, do you notice anything about the floor plan?
My building permit application is ready, but I want to change it after all. It doesn’t suit me, and I’m sure it will cause trouble with the company if they have to make changes for us, but I want to be able to decide again and just need some feedback here.
Looking forward to your support!
Best regards
we are building an end-terrace house measuring 7 by 10 m (23 by 33 ft) without a basement. It will have 2 full floors and an attic above. Now the question is which roof we should have. I was shown a house with a 38-degree gable roof without a knee wall, which I found very nice in terms of the feeling of space. Now we have been informed that only a 35-degree gable roof is allowed for us, but with a 30 cm (12 inches) knee wall. What I didn’t realize was that our attic has a maximum height of only 63 cm (25 inches). So the attic space is very low. Now I have no basement and hardly any storage space and I’m a bit frustrated because the building permit application is now in front of me. I initially agreed that this was okay, but I would prefer a 1 m (3 ft) knee wall. The development plan only allows a maximum of 30 cm (12 inches). I’m really unsure what to choose... I don’t want to spend unnecessary money if it doesn’t make a big difference since we have a very large plot and can build storage in the garage, barn, or garden house...
What would you do?
A. 38-degree gable roof or
B. 35-degree gable roof with 30 cm (12 inches) knee wall or
C. 35-degree gable roof with 1 m (3 ft) knee wall, applying to the city office...
We would need to submit a request to the building authority to increase the knee wall to 1 m (3 ft), which would mean more effort, bureaucracy, and delays... I don’t know what it would cost or if it’s even possible, but it’s weighing on my mind because I only read online about people who built houses with a knee wall on the attic. The extra cost of $3,000–$5,000, if that’s roughly the amount, would be worth it to me if it creates nicer rooms and I get a higher attic for storage.
The second problem is that the plot is much lower than street level. We are paying an extra €10,000 to fill the plot with gravel up to street level. Now the house will be built just slightly above street level, so there will be a step at the entrance. There will be a total of 3 terraced houses, and we have the end house. In our row, two finished terraced houses from other builders are already standing next to ours. However, these are built 1 m (3 ft) above street level with 3 or 4 steps higher, so they probably look taller overall. I find this visually unappealing and also, personally, I want our house to be higher.
What are your thoughts on this?
I’m also uploading my floor plan, which I think is finished. I don’t understand how high the ceilings are; can someone tell from the plans? Inside the rooms, how high are they? And generally, do you notice anything about the floor plan?
My building permit application is ready, but I want to change it after all. It doesn’t suit me, and I’m sure it will cause trouble with the company if they have to make changes for us, but I want to be able to decide again and just need some feedback here.
Looking forward to your support!
Best regards
B
Bertram10023 Aug 2022 08:13I couldn’t quickly find a gradient image where each step has a different color shade.
I’m adding a picture from the internet of a staircase where you can clearly see that the railing sets the tone. The photo shows a more rural style. With a sleek metal railing in a simple design, the staircase would look completely different.
Of course, you can do whatever you want with your staircase. I remember feeling uncertain when choosing one and thinking a staircase has to be beautiful. But it doesn’t have to be—it just needs to be good enough. Most staircases aren’t ugly.
I’m adding a picture from the internet of a staircase where you can clearly see that the railing sets the tone. The photo shows a more rural style. With a sleek metal railing in a simple design, the staircase would look completely different.
Of course, you can do whatever you want with your staircase. I remember feeling uncertain when choosing one and thinking a staircase has to be beautiful. But it doesn’t have to be—it just needs to be good enough. Most staircases aren’t ugly.
Bertram100 schrieb:
It really doesn’t have to be perfect; good enough is good enough. Most stairs aren’t ugly.I have to disagree there. There are stairs, and then there are stairs. 😉And regarding all the thoughts about “space,” I suggest reconsidering Evelin’s kitchen ideas. In that case, the staircase could likely remain more open, and with some discipline, there would be only a decorative piece under the stairs. With a sufficiently large wardrobe, the bedroom closet can be relieved and might only need to be about 250 cm (98 inches), allowing for a proper office door, and so on.
For example, having only one seasonal jacket in the wardrobe seems very impractical to me. Especially during transitional seasons, you usually have jackets of varying warmth and decide each day which one to wear; or in winter, whether to choose the ski parka or the long coat, depending on where you are going and what you plan to do.
Also, be very clear about which utility connections need to remain downstairs and which should not be moved up to the attic. What about the electrical fuse box and so on?
For example, having only one seasonal jacket in the wardrobe seems very impractical to me. Especially during transitional seasons, you usually have jackets of varying warmth and decide each day which one to wear; or in winter, whether to choose the ski parka or the long coat, depending on where you are going and what you plan to do.
Also, be very clear about which utility connections need to remain downstairs and which should not be moved up to the attic. What about the electrical fuse box and so on?
K a t j a schrieb:
@ypg We need that list again. 🙂I present the L silently with wordshttps://www.hausbau-forum.de/threads/die-liste-die-jeden-bauherren-zu-interessieren-hat.34418/
I also found my wardrobe thread
https://www.hausbau-forum.de/threads/schuhe-und-jacken-auf-1-37qm-realistisch.38783/
Bauherrin123 schrieb:
The annoying thing is just the door above in the office; the only solution I have is to choose the narrow door, ...???I keep posting one solution after another...
Still, another attempt: Reverse the staircase direction:
This way, on the ground floor, the storage room could be expanded and the space under the stairs could be used as well. However, the walls above would need to be structurally supported. But it should be manageable.
On the first floor, we simply build over the first stair step to move the office door.
In the attic, we now need more height for the utility room door. Therefore, a large double casement window must be installed here to allow the door to open. We will place the washing machine right under the window -> water connection!!!
Bauherrin123 schrieb:
The storage room MUST have a freezer compartment, and on the right when you enter, a shoe cabinet; at the front wall a small coat rack—hooks are enough for us, plus some on the door for guests—and the remaining space should be a shelf for supplies. I’ll just place the vacuum cleaner and cleaning supplies in front of the shelf since we don’t mop that often. Well, not really, but with kids it’s different and a house is different from an apartment... I also have to clean upstairs; whether I bring things down from upstairs or carry them up from downstairs, they have to be carried once. But I could also store them in the utility room... yes, the pantry is small but still big enough to fit everything, at least I think so. Please feel free to correct me.
...
Drinks in the garage, or there’s space to the right in the kitchen along the wall, maybe there or—I don’t know—maybe under the open staircase. So yes, I’m definitely missing a few storage corners, but I don’t want to give up on the look. I’m still thinking about it because I don’t have kids yet, no experience with many things, and here everyone writing has already built and lives with kids, so I don’t want to regret it later.....
So, quickly back to the storage room/coat area. We also don’t have a basement, so we planned for a lot more storage space (though it still feels too little). I’ll run through it for you because I’d want someone to point this out to me now so I don’t totally regret it later. Especially regarding your consideration about an open or closed staircase.
There is more than enough (!) space in the entrance area for coats, shoe cabinet, and room for a stroller. We planned several meters for that.
Our kitchen has multiple tall cabinets, but we still have a pantry for the freezer, beverage crates, and a few shelves for supplies. This room is 4 square meters (43 square feet).
A technical room that houses only the building services equipment, and it’s really full. This room is 10 square meters (108 square feet).
A room just for laundry and cleaning supplies. It contains the washing machine, dryer, laundry basket, shelves for cleaning tools and also tools, a sink, and the vacuum cleaner, etc. In hindsight, this room could have been a bit bigger. The drying rack is very cramped and always has to be put away after use, otherwise you can’t easily access the shelves. This room is 5 square meters (54 square feet).
I know that it’s difficult to compare a detached house directly with a townhouse. BUT you can try to use the available space as efficiently as possible.
I wouldn’t call myself someone who keeps excessive amounts of stuff or hoards. But some things simply need more space than you might think right now—for example, the freezer. If you put it in that small room, it’s basically full. You can’t place anything in front of the freezer door either. But then, where will your coat storage be?! Not to mention shelves for supplies.
I would recommend closing off the staircase and incorporating the storage room space. Then, as has been suggested several times, make the kitchen narrower and accommodate the coat storage there. That solution seems very sensible, and no one needs two tables right next to each other—especially if it’s such a waste of space.
Please think carefully about what will be important to you in the future, especially if you have or plan to have children. 🙂
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