Hello,
here I would like to share some experiences and data regarding my brine heat pump and deep drilling, based in part on the expert’s "questionnaire":
a) What is the soil composition on your property?
Up to 3m (10 feet) silty, fine sandy, clayey soil
Up to 4m (13 feet) slope debris, rock fragments
Then bedrock (mainly limestone)
b) How deep was the drilling?
Drilled twice to a depth of 72m (236 feet)
c) How much did the drilling cost?
€10,400 including double U-probes DN25
Grouting material with 2.0 W/mK thermal conductivity
Permitting process (building permit / planning permission)
Pressure-tight house entry at the basement and underground routing of supply lines (about 25m (82 feet))
Filling/draining equipment, filling, pressure testing, etc. (all inclusive)
d) How much did the system cost?
System: Tecalor TTc 05 with heating output at B0/W35 of 5.8 kW and coefficient of performance (COP) of 4.8
Cost: €9,800
e) Were there any difficulties during installation, if so, what kind?
Because the water used to flush out the drilled material during drilling seeped away, a "small compressor" was needed to blow it out with air. However, it had to be placed on a neighbor’s property who had not yet started building. The machine was the size and approximate weight of a 20-ton truck but was off-road capable. This caused a 2-day delay because the compressor first had to be transported to our site. No additional costs were charged.
f) How is the daily operation?
"Like a refrigerator." Once the parameters on the heating system are correctly set, the only thing that should be done is occasionally reading the information/data such as operating hours and source temperature. Otherwise, it runs "on its own," just like any heating system. When the door is closed, the unit is virtually inaudible. Very discreet since, apart from the cabinet in the utility room, nothing else is visible (all brine pipes are underground).
e) What are the operating costs for which living area?
Currently, a living area of 180sqm (1937 sqft) is heated, plus an additional 65sqm (700 sqft) of cellar space within the insulated thermal envelope (these rooms are around 15-16°C (59-61°F) on the coldest days). From September 2014 to September 2015, 2,000 kWh of electricity was consumed for heating and hot water (2 adults, 1 baby, 1 toddler). The house is a KfW-70 standard building according to the 2009 energy saving regulations, which already met the required technical standards before the central ventilation system with enthalpy heat exchanger was installed (we decided to add this after the initial applications).
f) to be continued ....
Note regarding the comparison of the coefficient of performance (COP):
Since optimizing the heating curve and settings at the end of last year, the system has had a COP of about 5.5. Operating hours are around 1200; the deep borehole was drilled approximately 20% deeper than initially recommended by the companies, at our own request.
here I would like to share some experiences and data regarding my brine heat pump and deep drilling, based in part on the expert’s "questionnaire":
a) What is the soil composition on your property?
Up to 3m (10 feet) silty, fine sandy, clayey soil
Up to 4m (13 feet) slope debris, rock fragments
Then bedrock (mainly limestone)
b) How deep was the drilling?
Drilled twice to a depth of 72m (236 feet)
c) How much did the drilling cost?
€10,400 including double U-probes DN25
Grouting material with 2.0 W/mK thermal conductivity
Permitting process (building permit / planning permission)
Pressure-tight house entry at the basement and underground routing of supply lines (about 25m (82 feet))
Filling/draining equipment, filling, pressure testing, etc. (all inclusive)
d) How much did the system cost?
System: Tecalor TTc 05 with heating output at B0/W35 of 5.8 kW and coefficient of performance (COP) of 4.8
Cost: €9,800
e) Were there any difficulties during installation, if so, what kind?
Because the water used to flush out the drilled material during drilling seeped away, a "small compressor" was needed to blow it out with air. However, it had to be placed on a neighbor’s property who had not yet started building. The machine was the size and approximate weight of a 20-ton truck but was off-road capable. This caused a 2-day delay because the compressor first had to be transported to our site. No additional costs were charged.
f) How is the daily operation?
"Like a refrigerator." Once the parameters on the heating system are correctly set, the only thing that should be done is occasionally reading the information/data such as operating hours and source temperature. Otherwise, it runs "on its own," just like any heating system. When the door is closed, the unit is virtually inaudible. Very discreet since, apart from the cabinet in the utility room, nothing else is visible (all brine pipes are underground).
e) What are the operating costs for which living area?
Currently, a living area of 180sqm (1937 sqft) is heated, plus an additional 65sqm (700 sqft) of cellar space within the insulated thermal envelope (these rooms are around 15-16°C (59-61°F) on the coldest days). From September 2014 to September 2015, 2,000 kWh of electricity was consumed for heating and hot water (2 adults, 1 baby, 1 toddler). The house is a KfW-70 standard building according to the 2009 energy saving regulations, which already met the required technical standards before the central ventilation system with enthalpy heat exchanger was installed (we decided to add this after the initial applications).
f) to be continued ....
Note regarding the comparison of the coefficient of performance (COP):
Since optimizing the heating curve and settings at the end of last year, the system has had a COP of about 5.5. Operating hours are around 1200; the deep borehole was drilled approximately 20% deeper than initially recommended by the companies, at our own request.
D
DerUnbeugsame14 Aug 2017 17:05I have a Novelan system that operates at 50°C (122°F), and the disinfection program runs once a month. According to the manufacturer, it is only necessary every three months.
I chose this setup for my entire system because I sized the water storage so that the water is replaced frequently through showering and usage, preventing significant microbial growth. I believe the frequency of disinfection should also depend on the size of the storage compared to the consumption.
D
DerUnbeugsame15 Aug 2017 13:15It is not the amount of water flowing through the boiler that matters, but the temperature. Legionella bacteria only die at 68 degrees Celsius (154°F), as that is the temperature at which protein denatures.
You are mistaken. Legionella bacteria need time to multiply; a small number will always enter the storage tank through regular tap water. However, if the water turnover rate is high enough, the concentration of Legionella remains at a safe level. Only when the storage tank is too large does the concentration become too high, because the bacteria multiply faster than the water can be replaced.
D
DerUnbeugsame15 Aug 2017 13:58hmm... then I guess I failed in my studies and have been doing everything wrong in my profession for 25 years...
With your method, you might keep the legionella at a constant level about 75% of the time, but you carry a very high risk of an outbreak. You can reduce the risk to 100% by killing the entire strain, which you can only do at temperatures of 68°C (154°F) or higher.
With your method, you might keep the legionella at a constant level about 75% of the time, but you carry a very high risk of an outbreak. You can reduce the risk to 100% by killing the entire strain, which you can only do at temperatures of 68°C (154°F) or higher.
Equating a personal mistake with a complete failure in education and career is quite an unfair argument and not a factual way to discuss this. I don’t find any real arguments or factual information about Legionella in single-family homes in your post, except for some arbitrary percentage figures (where do your 75 and 100 percent come from?).
By the way, this is not just my method, but a common and definite approach. You always get new Legionella bacteria through the tap water. They can only be kept away over the long term if the water temperature is kept above 68°C (154°F), which is uneconomical with heat pumps (and the storage losses are high). Otherwise, there is no way to keep them away 100%.
Regular heating is also just a reduction strategy because you never kill 100% (just look up the studies yourself), and when you first draw water, new Legionella come in with the fresh water. So, the decisive factor is the concentration. If the water exchange rate is high enough, that is completely sufficient. If the entire water supply is replaced every two days, what would a weekly heating achieve? You are heating water with a Legionella concentration basically equal to tap water, which is replaced shortly after anyway. When heating the storage tank, long-unused pipes, etc., are often not heated along. Circulation lines and rarely used showers (these are where infection risk is highest due to water droplets in the air) are actually the main risk of infection!
Furthermore, the comparison with hospitals is incorrect. This concerns single-family homes, where the infrastructure, pipe lengths, etc., as well as the requirements in hospitals (which house immune-compromised individuals) are quite different.
By the way, this is not just my method, but a common and definite approach. You always get new Legionella bacteria through the tap water. They can only be kept away over the long term if the water temperature is kept above 68°C (154°F), which is uneconomical with heat pumps (and the storage losses are high). Otherwise, there is no way to keep them away 100%.
Regular heating is also just a reduction strategy because you never kill 100% (just look up the studies yourself), and when you first draw water, new Legionella come in with the fresh water. So, the decisive factor is the concentration. If the water exchange rate is high enough, that is completely sufficient. If the entire water supply is replaced every two days, what would a weekly heating achieve? You are heating water with a Legionella concentration basically equal to tap water, which is replaced shortly after anyway. When heating the storage tank, long-unused pipes, etc., are often not heated along. Circulation lines and rarely used showers (these are where infection risk is highest due to water droplets in the air) are actually the main risk of infection!
Furthermore, the comparison with hospitals is incorrect. This concerns single-family homes, where the infrastructure, pipe lengths, etc., as well as the requirements in hospitals (which house immune-compromised individuals) are quite different.
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