ᐅ Swedish Prefabricated Panel House / AB-Elementhus Renovation vs Demolition
Created on: 12 Jun 2019 17:51
H
HarvSpec
Hello everyone,
We have purchased a Swedish prefabricated house from the company AB-Elementhus. It features a solid masonry ground floor, on top of which the prefabricated house is built.
Initially, the plan was to completely demolish the house and replace it with a new cross-laminated timber (CLT) structure of the same size.
While studying the building documents and permits for the AB-Elementhus house, I was positively surprised by the construction.
The wall assembly is (inside to outside) 2cm (0.8 inches) cross-laminated timber, 16cm (6 inches) compressed wood chips, 2cm (0.8 inches) cross-laminated timber, and 0.2mm (0.008 inches) stove-lacquered aluminum.
The planned layout of the new building could be realized within the existing structure, so I am now considering renovating and upgrading instead of demolishing (insulation, interior, windows, etc.).
Does anyone have experience with these houses?
Best regards,
Harv
We have purchased a Swedish prefabricated house from the company AB-Elementhus. It features a solid masonry ground floor, on top of which the prefabricated house is built.
Initially, the plan was to completely demolish the house and replace it with a new cross-laminated timber (CLT) structure of the same size.
While studying the building documents and permits for the AB-Elementhus house, I was positively surprised by the construction.
The wall assembly is (inside to outside) 2cm (0.8 inches) cross-laminated timber, 16cm (6 inches) compressed wood chips, 2cm (0.8 inches) cross-laminated timber, and 0.2mm (0.008 inches) stove-lacquered aluminum.
The planned layout of the new building could be realized within the existing structure, so I am now considering renovating and upgrading instead of demolishing (insulation, interior, windows, etc.).
Does anyone have experience with these houses?
Best regards,
Harv
It already looks like there might have been moisture there at some point.
If you take a look at the construction description at the link above, elements can sometimes loosen over time due to trapped moisture. That wasn’t the case for us.
Without making significant changes to the structure, I don’t see a solution. The connecting beams are only located at the top and bottom of the elements.
If you drive a screw straight through the wall, you’ll create a perfect condensation point.
If you take a look at the construction description at the link above, elements can sometimes loosen over time due to trapped moisture. That wasn’t the case for us.
Without making significant changes to the structure, I don’t see a solution. The connecting beams are only located at the top and bottom of the elements.
If you drive a screw straight through the wall, you’ll create a perfect condensation point.
Good morning,
thank you very much for the quick response.
Do you mean that the panels cannot simply be screwed on (condensation points)?
How can we now re-secure the bulging areas without them loosening further?
We saw from your previous posts that you plastered your house. Judging by these pictures, it seems to be the same type of house that we have.
How did you plaster your house? Did you use a substructure, apply something directly onto the panels, or did you apply the plaster directly?
Do we need to remove the panels in the bulging areas beforehand (if we also want to plaster), or would it hold as is?
We would also like to speak with you personally to simplify the process and to clarify any questions directly. Please let us know if that would be okay for you.
thank you very much for the quick response.
Do you mean that the panels cannot simply be screwed on (condensation points)?
How can we now re-secure the bulging areas without them loosening further?
We saw from your previous posts that you plastered your house. Judging by these pictures, it seems to be the same type of house that we have.
How did you plaster your house? Did you use a substructure, apply something directly onto the panels, or did you apply the plaster directly?
Do we need to remove the panels in the bulging areas beforehand (if we also want to plaster), or would it hold as is?
We would also like to speak with you personally to simplify the process and to clarify any questions directly. Please let us know if that would be okay for you.
Gujo1988 schrieb:
Do we need to remove the elements from the bulging areas beforehand (even if we plaster over them), or would they still hold?
We would also like to speak with you personally to simplify the process and possibly clarify any questions directly. Please let us know if that would be okay for you. I see this facade as a fairly neat weather protection and would leave it as is. From what I understand, the small cosmetic flaw does not affect the structural integrity and is therefore not a concern for the house’s value. According to recent speculation, being able to exchange private messages requires both parties to have at least 250 posts. I solved this for myself by creating an account with the same nickname as here in the forum at a free email provider (gmx de). You then only need to mention in the forum which provider you use, which reduces the risk of spam compared to sharing your full email address.
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
Hello,
thank you in advance for the information.
However, we have further questions. To provide better protection for the exterior wall, we would prefer the option with wood fiber boards and plaster.
Did you attach or glue the wood fiber insulation directly onto the aluminum exterior facade, or did you install a substructure (also to allow for an air gap behind)?
If you used a substructure, what material was it made of, and what was the air gap distance between the house wall and the wood fiber board?
How thick should the wood fiber board be?
Would the wood fiber board including the plaster be too heavy for the existing wall? There are no studs except for the top and bottom horizontal beams.
Sorry for the many questions.
thank you in advance for the information.
However, we have further questions. To provide better protection for the exterior wall, we would prefer the option with wood fiber boards and plaster.
Did you attach or glue the wood fiber insulation directly onto the aluminum exterior facade, or did you install a substructure (also to allow for an air gap behind)?
If you used a substructure, what material was it made of, and what was the air gap distance between the house wall and the wood fiber board?
How thick should the wood fiber board be?
Would the wood fiber board including the plaster be too heavy for the existing wall? There are no studs except for the top and bottom horizontal beams.
Sorry for the many questions.
P
Peter Geiger21 May 2022 14:09Hello everyone,
I am new to the forum and have a question:
We live in an SEH Landskrona house (manufacturer AB-Elementhus, built in 1980) and would like to renovate both bathrooms (downstairs and upstairs) because the wall cladding in the showers is gradually becoming unattractive at the lower sections. The cladding appears to be hardboard panels covered with fabric or a similar material, then painted. We want to update the walls with aluminum Dibond panels to restore them to a like-new condition. Unfortunately, I have no building documents for the house.
Is it possible for a forum member to provide documents showing the construction of the interior walls (especially in the bathrooms) so I can properly instruct the plumbing company? If possible, complete building plans would be even better, as I expect there will be other renovation work needed in the coming years.
Of course, I am happy to cover any costs involved.
Please send me an email or a brief message here in the forum, and I will respond promptly.
Thank you very much in advance
Peter
I am new to the forum and have a question:
We live in an SEH Landskrona house (manufacturer AB-Elementhus, built in 1980) and would like to renovate both bathrooms (downstairs and upstairs) because the wall cladding in the showers is gradually becoming unattractive at the lower sections. The cladding appears to be hardboard panels covered with fabric or a similar material, then painted. We want to update the walls with aluminum Dibond panels to restore them to a like-new condition. Unfortunately, I have no building documents for the house.
Is it possible for a forum member to provide documents showing the construction of the interior walls (especially in the bathrooms) so I can properly instruct the plumbing company? If possible, complete building plans would be even better, as I expect there will be other renovation work needed in the coming years.
Of course, I am happy to cover any costs involved.
Please send me an email or a brief message here in the forum, and I will respond promptly.
Thank you very much in advance
Peter
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