ᐅ Substructure for facade with rhombus-shaped cladding boards without insulation
Created on: 22 May 2020 09:26
A
abc12345Hello everyone,
To visually enhance the entrance area, we would like to install rhombus cladding on the facade. The area measures 5 meters (16.4 feet) in length and 3 meters (9.8 feet) in height.
I have already ordered the rhombus cladding boards (untreated Siberian larch). I plan to apply a clear wood stain.
The wood will be installed on the north side of the facade, so it is not exposed to direct sunlight. Only a bit of morning sun reaches it early in the day.
The facade is already plastered and painted, with the staircase located behind it.
I want to skip insulation since this is purely for decorative purposes.
Now my question is how I should build the substructure.
My plan was simply to screw a timber batten onto the facade, then staple a black vapor-permeable underlay membrane over it, seal the overlaps with appropriate tape, and finally screw the rhombus profiles onto that.
Is this approach feasible?
What minimum thickness should the substructure have? I think a 40 x 60 mm (1.6 x 2.4 inches) spruce timber batten might be oversized, right?
Would a simple roof batten of 24 x 48 mm (1.0 x 1.9 inches) be sufficient?
To visually enhance the entrance area, we would like to install rhombus cladding on the facade. The area measures 5 meters (16.4 feet) in length and 3 meters (9.8 feet) in height.
I have already ordered the rhombus cladding boards (untreated Siberian larch). I plan to apply a clear wood stain.
The wood will be installed on the north side of the facade, so it is not exposed to direct sunlight. Only a bit of morning sun reaches it early in the day.
The facade is already plastered and painted, with the staircase located behind it.
I want to skip insulation since this is purely for decorative purposes.
Now my question is how I should build the substructure.
My plan was simply to screw a timber batten onto the facade, then staple a black vapor-permeable underlay membrane over it, seal the overlaps with appropriate tape, and finally screw the rhombus profiles onto that.
Is this approach feasible?
What minimum thickness should the substructure have? I think a 40 x 60 mm (1.6 x 2.4 inches) spruce timber batten might be oversized, right?
Would a simple roof batten of 24 x 48 mm (1.0 x 1.9 inches) be sufficient?
Vicky Pedia23 May 2020 14:01Well, the roof batten should hold if it is properly anchored. But why use the underlay membrane? Leave it out, you will encourage condensation. The facade is ventilated at the rear and works well. For the color, please consult a specialist retailer. Larch will definitely develop a silvery-gray patina. Instead of a glaze, I would look for a special oil. Please ask a professional about that.
I would have used the underlay membrane to prevent water from reaching the facade through the 8mm (0.3 inches) gap between the battens and to ensure the background is nicely black. Otherwise, I would have to paint the wall behind it black (it is currently white) and also paint the counter battens black.
You read everywhere that the underlay membrane should be installed underneath.
Okay, I will get advice from a specialist store about treating the wood with stain or oil, thanks for the information.
You read everywhere that the underlay membrane should be installed underneath.
Okay, I will get advice from a specialist store about treating the wood with stain or oil, thanks for the information.
Vicky Pedia23 May 2020 16:07Yes, of course, it glows in the dark; I didn’t know that. I’m not a facade builder, but I would be concerned about using a membrane on the outer surface. This is a question for all building physicists.
It is a breathable underlayment membrane, similar to those used in roof construction, so that’s fine.
Of course, you could also leave it out, but then the white facade would show through underneath, which I want to avoid.
I also think that impregnated spruce battens measuring 24 x 48 mm (about 1 x 2 inches) will work well. They will be anchored to the house.
My question was mainly whether there is a minimum ventilation gap that must be maintained for air circulation purposes.
Of course, you could also leave it out, but then the white facade would show through underneath, which I want to avoid.
I also think that impregnated spruce battens measuring 24 x 48 mm (about 1 x 2 inches) will work well. They will be anchored to the house.
My question was mainly whether there is a minimum ventilation gap that must be maintained for air circulation purposes.
The underlay membrane is simply essential for the desired appearance. Otherwise, the substructure and masonry would be visible. It is not installed directly on the masonry but fixed to the battens, which allows for ventilation behind it. It protects the masonry, and the airflow deters nesting pests (not 100%, but it works).
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