ᐅ New IKEA Kitchen – Questions Before Installation – Are Replacement Parts in Stock?

Good evening everyone,

I recently ordered a new kitchen at an IKEA store and expect to receive the individual parts next week. I have already read quite a bit about kitchen installation in general and about the specific items I ordered on IKEA’s website. However, I still have some questions that I would like to clarify sooner rather than later. Maybe someone here can help me with one or two of them...

I have dealt with couriers before, and almost every delivery had transport damage. With IKEA, do you need to meticulously document visible damage to the packages, or is that uncommon because of the large number of packages and usually handled later with IKEA customer service?

If replacement parts are needed, can you quickly pick them up, possibly at different stores nearby, or is it necessary to wait a longer time for delivery from the central warehouse?

I am getting several electrical appliances from IKEA and am wondering about their connection types (for example, Schuko plug, open cable ends, terminal blocks, etc.). The appliances are the integrated dishwasher Rengöra, the convection oven ANRÄTTA, and the ceramic cooktop MATMÄSSIG. Depending on the connection type, I might need to modify the electrical installation somewhat (for example, installing outlets). For the cooktop, I almost rule out factory-installed Schuko plugs, since the manual states it must be connected to a multiphase supply. Still, I would like to know beforehand how these devices are connected, which cables they come with, and their lengths.

The METOD base cabinets are supposed to be mounted using a hanging rail. According to IKEA’s kitchen installation guide, the bottom edge of the base cabinet rail should be 82cm (32 inches) above the floor. Unfortunately, in my kitchen the tile backsplash starts about 80cm (31½ inches) above the floor. The IKEA staff seemed completely overwhelmed by my question about what to do in this case besides the obvious no-go of drilling into the tiles. I can hardly be the first person to face this problem. I am assuming the base cabinets can be fixed without the rail. However, the METOD cabinet assembly instructions make it look as if the alternative fixing method without the rail is at about the same height as the rail because of the pre-drilled holes, meaning the 82cm height would still be necessary combined with the legs of the cabinets I bought. At least, that is what it looks like in the drawings, as the mounting hole appears to be roughly at rail level. Can anyone share more insight on this?

How much effort is usually required later to access built-in electrical appliances like the dishwasher or oven? For the dishwasher, I assume it simply slides in precisely and the cabinet door is then attached to the dishwasher door. For the oven, I have no clear idea how it is secured inside the cabinet or what exactly needs to be removed to pull the oven out of the kitchen unit.

I am thinking about having a kitchen fitter do the assembly for me due to time constraints, and he seems to have a lot of experience with IKEA kitchens. However, he charges nearly 200 euros per linear meter and justifies this by including the appliance installation. Honestly, I suspect that connecting the electrical appliances mostly consists of plugging in Schuko plugs—and if the cooktop is anything like others I have handled in my life, it only involves screwing down a few copper wires and possibly installing a jumper for the selected connection type.

I plan to install a non-IKEA low-pressure faucet in the sink afterwards and will also connect the entire sink myself. I don’t fully understand why the base price is calculated per linear meter since it surely makes a difference whether all drawers in the base cabinets are arranged with 3 drawers each or 8 drawers each regarding the work involved. Due to structural reasons, my kitchen consists only of a single straight bottom row about 3.30m (10 feet 10 inches) long, with 3 drawer cabinets totaling 10 drawers—there is no upper cabinet row or range hood planned. In addition, there is the VATTUDALEN sink without a faucet, as well as the 3 mentioned electrical appliances, where I will install sink and faucet myself and am willing to handle any connection work beyond plugging in Schuko plugs. I would be very interested to know what price you consider reasonable per linear meter under these conditions.

I wish you all a pleasant Sunday.

Many thanks and best regards,
Panzerknacker

Panzerknacker schrieb:
And if the cooktop is roughly comparable to the ones I have come across in my life, then it’s just a matter of securing a few copper wires with screws and possibly installing a jumper for the connection type.

To my knowledge, the oven and stove need to be connected by a professional.

Panzerknacker schrieb:
Actually, I assume the base cabinets can be installed without a rail.

Instead, fix them to the wall using anchors. For that, attach vertical battens under the backsplash so you have a straight line. The battens should be placed where you want to drill the cabinets at the back corners on the top (and bottom).

Panzerknacker schrieb:
I’m very interested to know what price you consider reasonable per linear meter under these circumstances.

200€/linear meter; if more questions arise, the work would be worth 300€/linear meter.
Because: everything I don’t know or can’t do is worth hiring a professional.
That’s a compromise you have to accept when assembling a kitchen with Ikea furniture.

This kitchen will need to be installed by a professional team. Trust me on this and set aside an extra 1000 units just to be safe.

Panzerknacker schrieb:
I am considering having the assembly done by a kitchen fitter due to time constraints; he apparently has a lot of experience with IKEA kitchens. However, he charges almost 200 euros per running meter (about 61 dollars per running foot).

I can’t really comment on that price (except that IKEA installers are not THAT expensive—I’ve actually hired them before).
However, I know three people who assembled their fairly large IKEA kitchens themselves. One of them is my husband; that was the kitchen in his previous apartment before we moved in together. It took him two days to assemble it, and he connected the stove himself.

We also have an Ikea kitchen. 3.60 meters (12 feet) at the back and a 2.40-meter (8 feet) island with cabinets on both sides. And here lies the catch with the Ikea assembly offer: the island counts double, so 4.8 meters (16 feet), even though, for example, there are no upper cabinets on it. That’s why I saved the 1700 EUR by assembling the kitchen myself. By the way, I find the rail system very practical.

The price for the installation is insane. A typical case for MyHammer. Moving companies offer their installers, who do this every day.
I paid about €500 for an estimated 2x4m (6.5x13 feet), including all tools (in practice, it doesn’t matter who is authorized for what). At Ikea itself, it would have cost around €1500. No thanks.
There were three people for one day. Two unpacked the packages and assembled the carcasses and drawers (that takes most of the time and is basically an assistant’s task), and one installed and adjusted the rails.
Cutting and fitting the countertop was then a joint effort.
I only had to take care of the waste disposal myself and make a spontaneous trip to the home improvement store to get a water connection fitting.