ᐅ New IKEA Kitchen – Questions Before Installation – Are Replacement Parts in Stock?
Created on: 23 Sep 2018 03:14
P
Panzerknacker
Good evening everyone,
I recently ordered a new kitchen at an IKEA store and expect to receive the individual parts next week. I have already read quite a bit about kitchen installation in general and about the specific items I ordered on IKEA’s website. However, I still have some questions that I would like to clarify sooner rather than later. Maybe someone here can help me with one or two of them...
I have dealt with couriers before, and almost every delivery had transport damage. With IKEA, do you need to meticulously document visible damage to the packages, or is that uncommon because of the large number of packages and usually handled later with IKEA customer service?
If replacement parts are needed, can you quickly pick them up, possibly at different stores nearby, or is it necessary to wait a longer time for delivery from the central warehouse?
I am getting several electrical appliances from IKEA and am wondering about their connection types (for example, Schuko plug, open cable ends, terminal blocks, etc.). The appliances are the integrated dishwasher Rengöra, the convection oven ANRÄTTA, and the ceramic cooktop MATMÄSSIG. Depending on the connection type, I might need to modify the electrical installation somewhat (for example, installing outlets). For the cooktop, I almost rule out factory-installed Schuko plugs, since the manual states it must be connected to a multiphase supply. Still, I would like to know beforehand how these devices are connected, which cables they come with, and their lengths.
The METOD base cabinets are supposed to be mounted using a hanging rail. According to IKEA’s kitchen installation guide, the bottom edge of the base cabinet rail should be 82cm (32 inches) above the floor. Unfortunately, in my kitchen the tile backsplash starts about 80cm (31½ inches) above the floor. The IKEA staff seemed completely overwhelmed by my question about what to do in this case besides the obvious no-go of drilling into the tiles. I can hardly be the first person to face this problem. I am assuming the base cabinets can be fixed without the rail. However, the METOD cabinet assembly instructions make it look as if the alternative fixing method without the rail is at about the same height as the rail because of the pre-drilled holes, meaning the 82cm height would still be necessary combined with the legs of the cabinets I bought. At least, that is what it looks like in the drawings, as the mounting hole appears to be roughly at rail level. Can anyone share more insight on this?
How much effort is usually required later to access built-in electrical appliances like the dishwasher or oven? For the dishwasher, I assume it simply slides in precisely and the cabinet door is then attached to the dishwasher door. For the oven, I have no clear idea how it is secured inside the cabinet or what exactly needs to be removed to pull the oven out of the kitchen unit.
I am thinking about having a kitchen fitter do the assembly for me due to time constraints, and he seems to have a lot of experience with IKEA kitchens. However, he charges nearly 200 euros per linear meter and justifies this by including the appliance installation. Honestly, I suspect that connecting the electrical appliances mostly consists of plugging in Schuko plugs—and if the cooktop is anything like others I have handled in my life, it only involves screwing down a few copper wires and possibly installing a jumper for the selected connection type.
I plan to install a non-IKEA low-pressure faucet in the sink afterwards and will also connect the entire sink myself. I don’t fully understand why the base price is calculated per linear meter since it surely makes a difference whether all drawers in the base cabinets are arranged with 3 drawers each or 8 drawers each regarding the work involved. Due to structural reasons, my kitchen consists only of a single straight bottom row about 3.30m (10 feet 10 inches) long, with 3 drawer cabinets totaling 10 drawers—there is no upper cabinet row or range hood planned. In addition, there is the VATTUDALEN sink without a faucet, as well as the 3 mentioned electrical appliances, where I will install sink and faucet myself and am willing to handle any connection work beyond plugging in Schuko plugs. I would be very interested to know what price you consider reasonable per linear meter under these conditions.
I wish you all a pleasant Sunday.
Many thanks and best regards,
Panzerknacker
I recently ordered a new kitchen at an IKEA store and expect to receive the individual parts next week. I have already read quite a bit about kitchen installation in general and about the specific items I ordered on IKEA’s website. However, I still have some questions that I would like to clarify sooner rather than later. Maybe someone here can help me with one or two of them...
I have dealt with couriers before, and almost every delivery had transport damage. With IKEA, do you need to meticulously document visible damage to the packages, or is that uncommon because of the large number of packages and usually handled later with IKEA customer service?
If replacement parts are needed, can you quickly pick them up, possibly at different stores nearby, or is it necessary to wait a longer time for delivery from the central warehouse?
I am getting several electrical appliances from IKEA and am wondering about their connection types (for example, Schuko plug, open cable ends, terminal blocks, etc.). The appliances are the integrated dishwasher Rengöra, the convection oven ANRÄTTA, and the ceramic cooktop MATMÄSSIG. Depending on the connection type, I might need to modify the electrical installation somewhat (for example, installing outlets). For the cooktop, I almost rule out factory-installed Schuko plugs, since the manual states it must be connected to a multiphase supply. Still, I would like to know beforehand how these devices are connected, which cables they come with, and their lengths.
The METOD base cabinets are supposed to be mounted using a hanging rail. According to IKEA’s kitchen installation guide, the bottom edge of the base cabinet rail should be 82cm (32 inches) above the floor. Unfortunately, in my kitchen the tile backsplash starts about 80cm (31½ inches) above the floor. The IKEA staff seemed completely overwhelmed by my question about what to do in this case besides the obvious no-go of drilling into the tiles. I can hardly be the first person to face this problem. I am assuming the base cabinets can be fixed without the rail. However, the METOD cabinet assembly instructions make it look as if the alternative fixing method without the rail is at about the same height as the rail because of the pre-drilled holes, meaning the 82cm height would still be necessary combined with the legs of the cabinets I bought. At least, that is what it looks like in the drawings, as the mounting hole appears to be roughly at rail level. Can anyone share more insight on this?
How much effort is usually required later to access built-in electrical appliances like the dishwasher or oven? For the dishwasher, I assume it simply slides in precisely and the cabinet door is then attached to the dishwasher door. For the oven, I have no clear idea how it is secured inside the cabinet or what exactly needs to be removed to pull the oven out of the kitchen unit.
I am thinking about having a kitchen fitter do the assembly for me due to time constraints, and he seems to have a lot of experience with IKEA kitchens. However, he charges nearly 200 euros per linear meter and justifies this by including the appliance installation. Honestly, I suspect that connecting the electrical appliances mostly consists of plugging in Schuko plugs—and if the cooktop is anything like others I have handled in my life, it only involves screwing down a few copper wires and possibly installing a jumper for the selected connection type.
I plan to install a non-IKEA low-pressure faucet in the sink afterwards and will also connect the entire sink myself. I don’t fully understand why the base price is calculated per linear meter since it surely makes a difference whether all drawers in the base cabinets are arranged with 3 drawers each or 8 drawers each regarding the work involved. Due to structural reasons, my kitchen consists only of a single straight bottom row about 3.30m (10 feet 10 inches) long, with 3 drawer cabinets totaling 10 drawers—there is no upper cabinet row or range hood planned. In addition, there is the VATTUDALEN sink without a faucet, as well as the 3 mentioned electrical appliances, where I will install sink and faucet myself and am willing to handle any connection work beyond plugging in Schuko plugs. I would be very interested to know what price you consider reasonable per linear meter under these conditions.
I wish you all a pleasant Sunday.
Many thanks and best regards,
Panzerknacker
Nordlys schrieb:
We have an L-shaped kitchen about 4m (13 feet) long with upper cabinets, appliances, wall panels, LED lighting, and a range hood. Assembly price is around 800 (currency) something. Is that already too expensive for you?Here, double the length for 300 (currency) less, as already mentioned.
Assembly by Ikea is silly. Really.
Nordlys schrieb:
There is always someone who is cheaper somewhere. I don’t stress myself out about that anymore.Oh, I see. I thought you would have a sharp comment comparing €200/m (about $215/yd) to €62.50/m (about $67/yd).
But apparently it doesn’t work so well the other way around.