ᐅ Ikea Pax 200 cm, sliding doors misaligned – possible solutions?
Created on: 3 Dec 2014 16:15
C
clementeHello,
my new Pax wardrobe in my new apartment (older building with wooden floorboards) is crooked—I estimate about a 20mm (0.8 inch) lateral offset, probably due to the floor.
The sliding doors run smoothly, but you can see the gap against the uneven side walls, and it’s not possible to install drawers everywhere (at least not in all spots—the sliding doors slightly overlap the frame only at certain points when open). Both sections are screwed together but not fixed to the wall at the back (the distance due to the baseboard/skirting board is too large)—however, that wouldn’t fix the lateral unevenness anyway.
I can’t correct the unevenness using the adjustable legs (already tested). If I now try to level it with furniture wedges and thin wooden boards underneath, do I have to remove the doors and the rails first? Do the sections need to be separated? I’m concerned the tension would be too high otherwise. How can I then level both parts individually? The guide rails will have to be reinstalled later as well, which could be problematic if the two sections are adjusted separately and end up with a small height difference.
Is it possible to somehow use the door height adjustment to help fix this?
How would you proceed?
Thanks!
my new Pax wardrobe in my new apartment (older building with wooden floorboards) is crooked—I estimate about a 20mm (0.8 inch) lateral offset, probably due to the floor.
The sliding doors run smoothly, but you can see the gap against the uneven side walls, and it’s not possible to install drawers everywhere (at least not in all spots—the sliding doors slightly overlap the frame only at certain points when open). Both sections are screwed together but not fixed to the wall at the back (the distance due to the baseboard/skirting board is too large)—however, that wouldn’t fix the lateral unevenness anyway.
I can’t correct the unevenness using the adjustable legs (already tested). If I now try to level it with furniture wedges and thin wooden boards underneath, do I have to remove the doors and the rails first? Do the sections need to be separated? I’m concerned the tension would be too high otherwise. How can I then level both parts individually? The guide rails will have to be reinstalled later as well, which could be problematic if the two sections are adjusted separately and end up with a small height difference.
Is it possible to somehow use the door height adjustment to help fix this?
How would you proceed?
Thanks!
H
Herr rossi4 Dec 2014 09:38hi Clemente,
First, I would check the wall with a spirit level; in older buildings, this can always be a bit tricky.
I would take the doors off and empty the cabinets. Then connect both cabinets (is it actually called carcasses, corps, or corpora?) so that the side panels align flush in the middle at the top, bottom, and front. Next, you need to find the highest point on the wall (using the spirit level) where your cabinet will stand. Then place the spirit level and shim it until it is level. Mark the center of the rear plinth. Shim the side panels in the middle and at the ends, and also the rear plinth in the middle. After that, place the assembled carcass on the shims, but with enough distance from the wall so you can tilt it slightly backward. Then tilt it backward and shim at the front, again remembering to shim the plinth in the middle. If the gap becomes too large, you can cover it using a glued metal or wooden strip. I used a self-adhesive metal foil on my cabinets.
Regards, Herr rossi
First, I would check the wall with a spirit level; in older buildings, this can always be a bit tricky.
I would take the doors off and empty the cabinets. Then connect both cabinets (is it actually called carcasses, corps, or corpora?) so that the side panels align flush in the middle at the top, bottom, and front. Next, you need to find the highest point on the wall (using the spirit level) where your cabinet will stand. Then place the spirit level and shim it until it is level. Mark the center of the rear plinth. Shim the side panels in the middle and at the ends, and also the rear plinth in the middle. After that, place the assembled carcass on the shims, but with enough distance from the wall so you can tilt it slightly backward. Then tilt it backward and shim at the front, again remembering to shim the plinth in the middle. If the gap becomes too large, you can cover it using a glued metal or wooden strip. I used a self-adhesive metal foil on my cabinets.
Regards, Herr rossi
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