Hello,
here I would like to share some experiences and data regarding my brine heat pump and deep drilling, based in part on the expert’s "questionnaire":
a) What is the soil composition on your property?
Up to 3m (10 feet) silty, fine sandy, clayey soil
Up to 4m (13 feet) slope debris, rock fragments
Then bedrock (mainly limestone)
b) How deep was the drilling?
Drilled twice to a depth of 72m (236 feet)
c) How much did the drilling cost?
€10,400 including double U-probes DN25
Grouting material with 2.0 W/mK thermal conductivity
Permitting process (building permit / planning permission)
Pressure-tight house entry at the basement and underground routing of supply lines (about 25m (82 feet))
Filling/draining equipment, filling, pressure testing, etc. (all inclusive)
d) How much did the system cost?
System: Tecalor TTc 05 with heating output at B0/W35 of 5.8 kW and coefficient of performance (COP) of 4.8
Cost: €9,800
e) Were there any difficulties during installation, if so, what kind?
Because the water used to flush out the drilled material during drilling seeped away, a "small compressor" was needed to blow it out with air. However, it had to be placed on a neighbor’s property who had not yet started building. The machine was the size and approximate weight of a 20-ton truck but was off-road capable. This caused a 2-day delay because the compressor first had to be transported to our site. No additional costs were charged.
f) How is the daily operation?
"Like a refrigerator." Once the parameters on the heating system are correctly set, the only thing that should be done is occasionally reading the information/data such as operating hours and source temperature. Otherwise, it runs "on its own," just like any heating system. When the door is closed, the unit is virtually inaudible. Very discreet since, apart from the cabinet in the utility room, nothing else is visible (all brine pipes are underground).
e) What are the operating costs for which living area?
Currently, a living area of 180sqm (1937 sqft) is heated, plus an additional 65sqm (700 sqft) of cellar space within the insulated thermal envelope (these rooms are around 15-16°C (59-61°F) on the coldest days). From September 2014 to September 2015, 2,000 kWh of electricity was consumed for heating and hot water (2 adults, 1 baby, 1 toddler). The house is a KfW-70 standard building according to the 2009 energy saving regulations, which already met the required technical standards before the central ventilation system with enthalpy heat exchanger was installed (we decided to add this after the initial applications).
f) to be continued ....
Note regarding the comparison of the coefficient of performance (COP):
Since optimizing the heating curve and settings at the end of last year, the system has had a COP of about 5.5. Operating hours are around 1200; the deep borehole was drilled approximately 20% deeper than initially recommended by the companies, at our own request.
here I would like to share some experiences and data regarding my brine heat pump and deep drilling, based in part on the expert’s "questionnaire":
a) What is the soil composition on your property?
Up to 3m (10 feet) silty, fine sandy, clayey soil
Up to 4m (13 feet) slope debris, rock fragments
Then bedrock (mainly limestone)
b) How deep was the drilling?
Drilled twice to a depth of 72m (236 feet)
c) How much did the drilling cost?
€10,400 including double U-probes DN25
Grouting material with 2.0 W/mK thermal conductivity
Permitting process (building permit / planning permission)
Pressure-tight house entry at the basement and underground routing of supply lines (about 25m (82 feet))
Filling/draining equipment, filling, pressure testing, etc. (all inclusive)
d) How much did the system cost?
System: Tecalor TTc 05 with heating output at B0/W35 of 5.8 kW and coefficient of performance (COP) of 4.8
Cost: €9,800
e) Were there any difficulties during installation, if so, what kind?
Because the water used to flush out the drilled material during drilling seeped away, a "small compressor" was needed to blow it out with air. However, it had to be placed on a neighbor’s property who had not yet started building. The machine was the size and approximate weight of a 20-ton truck but was off-road capable. This caused a 2-day delay because the compressor first had to be transported to our site. No additional costs were charged.
f) How is the daily operation?
"Like a refrigerator." Once the parameters on the heating system are correctly set, the only thing that should be done is occasionally reading the information/data such as operating hours and source temperature. Otherwise, it runs "on its own," just like any heating system. When the door is closed, the unit is virtually inaudible. Very discreet since, apart from the cabinet in the utility room, nothing else is visible (all brine pipes are underground).
e) What are the operating costs for which living area?
Currently, a living area of 180sqm (1937 sqft) is heated, plus an additional 65sqm (700 sqft) of cellar space within the insulated thermal envelope (these rooms are around 15-16°C (59-61°F) on the coldest days). From September 2014 to September 2015, 2,000 kWh of electricity was consumed for heating and hot water (2 adults, 1 baby, 1 toddler). The house is a KfW-70 standard building according to the 2009 energy saving regulations, which already met the required technical standards before the central ventilation system with enthalpy heat exchanger was installed (we decided to add this after the initial applications).
f) to be continued ....
Note regarding the comparison of the coefficient of performance (COP):
Since optimizing the heating curve and settings at the end of last year, the system has had a COP of about 5.5. Operating hours are around 1200; the deep borehole was drilled approximately 20% deeper than initially recommended by the companies, at our own request.
S
Strahleman6 Aug 2020 07:05annab377 schrieb:
** You can’t really go wrong with the NOVELAN SICV H3 / K3, right? Novelan belongs to Alpha Innotec, which is a brand of Nibe. They all have the same refrigeration circuit and mainly differ in their control units/software. Nibe is often considered the standard choice when it comes to geothermal systems.
annab377 schrieb:
Even though it’s probably a bit more expensive on average than an air-to-water heat pump. But then I don’t need an unnecessary outdoor unit. Can you still apply for BAFA funding? If so, definitely do it. Air-to-water heat pumps rarely reach the required seasonal performance factor of 4.5. With the 35% subsidy, you quickly end up well below the investment costs of an air-to-water heat pump. We are getting about 11,000 euros back through subsidies for the heat pump including pipes up to the heating manifold (which is also eligible for funding).
annab377 schrieb:
Yes, my question was also how good the passive cooling of the brine heat pump really is. Well, you certainly can’t compare it to an air conditioner that actually blows out cold air and also reduces humidity, which improves thermal comfort. That’s right, you will notice a cooling effect if you activate the passive cooling early and don’t wait until it’s already 28°C (82°F) inside the house. As you said, an air conditioner also dehumidifies the air, so for comfort reasons, an AC is usually more pleasant. But you will still get a cooling effect with the heat pump. Just keep in mind: with 20°C (68°F) cold water, the floor might feel quite cool. Where does the 3,000 euro surcharge come from? That seems quite high for the “PC” (passive cooling) option on Novelan. By the way, this can also be retrofitted later.
Roller blinds create a bunker-like atmosphere. Several neighbors here who have them complain about that.
If you don't raise them, you get overheated. But then inside, it feels like a cave. With venetian blinds, you get a good balance.
Even during the construction phase, we specified venetian blinds everywhere, and we think it was one of the best decisions we made.
If you don't raise them, you get overheated. But then inside, it feels like a cave. With venetian blinds, you get a good balance.
Even during the construction phase, we specified venetian blinds everywhere, and we think it was one of the best decisions we made.
annab377 schrieb:
We are about to decide on a ground source heat pump for our house in Baden-Württemberg. What are your experiences with the passive cooling function of ground source heat pumps?
I’m interested in the NOVELAN SICV (H3 / K3) and wanted to know how satisfied you are with it. Is the extra cost of over 3,000 worth it?
Do you run 19-20°C (66-68°F) water through the underfloor heating in summer? For that, I probably need a dew point sensor in one room of the house. Or do I need one in every room?
Thank you for sharing your experiences.
** You can’t go wrong with the NOVELAN SICV H3 / K3, right? We have the Novelan ground source heat pump you mentioned.
I’m more than satisfied! I don’t know where the 3k extra cost comes from. We even skipped the dew point sensor and have had no issues. Any condensation would be obvious right away since the ceiling also acts as a heated ceiling (= BKA concrete core activation. I installed three loops of underfloor heating pipes before the concrete ceiling was poured).
I set the flow temperature for passive cooling to 19-20°C (66-68°F). According to an online dew point calculator, you’d need an indoor temperature of 25°C (77°F) and 70% humidity to reach the dew point at 19°C (66°F). Our balanced ventilation system uses an enthalpy heat exchanger, and indoor humidity in summer stays constant at 60%. Even during prolonged heatwaves, the indoor temperature never exceeds 22.5°C (72.5°F) on the ground floor and 23°C (73°F) upstairs. When I cool continuously at 19°C (66°F), it’s around 21.5°C (71°F) in the mornings, which I actually find a bit too cool.
The passive cooling is really great, and I wouldn’t want to do without it.
PS: Shading is obviously essential. Although our kids never stick to it and keep the terrace door open all the time… even then, the indoor temperature remains comfortably cool!
Woogl schrieb:
We have the Novelan brine heat pump you mentioned.
I am more than satisfied! I don’t know where the extra 3k cost comes from. We even skipped the dew point monitor and have had no issues with that. I would notice any dripping condensation right away since the ceiling between floors also functions as a ceiling heating system (concrete core activation, BKA). Here, I installed 3 loops of underfloor heating pipes before pouring the concrete slab.
I set the supply temperature for passive cooling to 19–20°C (66–68°F). According to an online dew point calculator, you would need an indoor temperature of 25°C (77°F) and 70% humidity to reach the dew point at 19°C (66°F). Our balanced ventilation system with heat recovery operates with an enthalpy heat exchanger, and the indoor humidity in summer stays constant at 60%. Even during long heat waves, the indoor temperature never exceeds 22.5°C (72°F) on the ground floor and 23°C (73°F) upstairs. When I cool constantly at 19°C (66°F), it’s still 21.5°C (71°F) in the morning, which is almost too cool for me.
The passive cooling is really excellent and I would never want to give it up.
PS: Shading is, of course, essential. Although our children never follow that and keep the patio door open all the time… even then, the indoor climate remains pleasantly cool!Isn’t it said that:
A) Balanced ventilation is not designed for cooling
B) Passive cooling hardly makes a difference.
How are you able to cool down this low? Which brine-to-water heat pump and balanced ventilation system are you using?
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