Hello,
I want to make and install custom fronts for the Metod kitchen. For the hinge cup holes, I would like to use the hole rows of the Metod carcasses.
Unfortunately, the often mentioned marking/drilling template from Hettich No. 00351 does not work. The hole spacing in the row is 50 mm (2 inches), and the distance from the holes to the front edge is 20 mm (0.8 inches).
So, if I understand correctly, Metod does not use the System 32.
Does anyone have a suggestion on how to accurately position the markings for the hinge cup holes? Or is there a marking/drilling template available for this specific spacing?
Best regards,
Sven
I want to make and install custom fronts for the Metod kitchen. For the hinge cup holes, I would like to use the hole rows of the Metod carcasses.
Unfortunately, the often mentioned marking/drilling template from Hettich No. 00351 does not work. The hole spacing in the row is 50 mm (2 inches), and the distance from the holes to the front edge is 20 mm (0.8 inches).
So, if I understand correctly, Metod does not use the System 32.
Does anyone have a suggestion on how to accurately position the markings for the hinge cup holes? Or is there a marking/drilling template available for this specific spacing?
Best regards,
Sven
Hello Sven,
with Metod, the system is completely different.
For mounting inside the cabinet, you only need the two horizontally aligned holes.
And for attaching the hinge to the door, you mainly need the large hole; the hinge is no longer screwed in but simply clipped on.
If I were you, I would take a look at the hinges at Ikea or buy a few, since it’s not a major cost.
It’s really a clever solution—just clip it onto the door and that’s it.
For the soft closing of the door, dampers are simply attached to the hinge.
Best regards
with Metod, the system is completely different.
For mounting inside the cabinet, you only need the two horizontally aligned holes.
And for attaching the hinge to the door, you mainly need the large hole; the hinge is no longer screwed in but simply clipped on.
If I were you, I would take a look at the hinges at Ikea or buy a few, since it’s not a major cost.
It’s really a clever solution—just clip it onto the door and that’s it.
For the soft closing of the door, dampers are simply attached to the hinge.
Best regards
I
IKEA-Experte28 Aug 2014 22:32Hello, there is no template. Simply mark the distances to the door edges.
Hello,
since the prices for the fronts are often completely excessive (especially for cheap foil coatings) and I don’t particularly like them either, I am currently considering having fronts made from MDF and getting them properly painted (or getting Brokhult from Italy).
For doors with hinges, I was thinking of making a template myself. First, I still need to take measurements at Ikea. But I assume that the hinge holes at the top and bottom are equally distant from the corner [after further consideration: that must be the case since the doors can be used on the right or left side] and the distance from the edge is the same regardless of the door height.
Then I would drill a continuous hinge cup hole once in a board, at the correct distance from the corner – or maybe just buy an inexpensive front (HÄGGEBY) and drill through it. At the corner reference point, I would then attach two strips perpendicular over the edge, extending on both sides, so that the board can be used as a drilling template both at the top and, flipped, at the bottom corner. Then, you would basically only have to be careful not to drill too deep.
since the prices for the fronts are often completely excessive (especially for cheap foil coatings) and I don’t particularly like them either, I am currently considering having fronts made from MDF and getting them properly painted (or getting Brokhult from Italy).
For doors with hinges, I was thinking of making a template myself. First, I still need to take measurements at Ikea. But I assume that the hinge holes at the top and bottom are equally distant from the corner [after further consideration: that must be the case since the doors can be used on the right or left side] and the distance from the edge is the same regardless of the door height.
Then I would drill a continuous hinge cup hole once in a board, at the correct distance from the corner – or maybe just buy an inexpensive front (HÄGGEBY) and drill through it. At the corner reference point, I would then attach two strips perpendicular over the edge, extending on both sides, so that the board can be used as a drilling template both at the top and, flipped, at the bottom corner. Then, you would basically only have to be careful not to drill too deep.
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