ᐅ Air-to-Water Heat Pump: Current Consumption and Data

Deliverer schrieb:

I’m so glad to be free of that stress. Turn on a small air conditioner and I no longer have to deal with noise and pollen inside all night. The energy consumption is minimal (especially with solar panels) and the air is also dehumidified. Especially because of the dehumidifying effect, I recommend a central air conditioning unit to every new build (yes, even with underfloor cooling).

And before anyone asks: I still ventilate thoroughly in the morning and use external shading during the day.

I think air conditioning is really great for summer. However, on the ground floor, I only have one practical location outside and inside for the indoor and outdoor units. It’s not possible to put them anywhere else indoors.

Also, as always… no electrical connection was planned or installed, even though I had it in the back of my mind. I don’t think I can power it via the wiring for the roller shutters, right?

Zaba12 schrieb:

Also, as usual... No electrical connection was planned or installed, even though I had it in the back of my mind. I don't think I can power it through the wiring for the roller shutters, can I?

If your roller shutters are connected with a standard 3*1.5 mm² cable, it is possible. These units might draw a peak power of about 1.5 kW. So it’s not any worse than a hairdryer.

Generally, the outdoor units are supplied with power. From there, power is routed along with control and refrigerant lines to the indoor unit. The indoor unit also needs to drain condensate (preferably along the same path with a slope).

Of course, if you have power near the outdoor unit, that’s ideal. If power is only available near the indoor unit, you need to find a way from the nearest outlet to behind the indoor unit. From there, you can run power along with the other cables to the outdoor unit. From that point onward, it’s as described above.

There’s almost always a solution. HVAC technicians tend to be very creative in situations like this. ;-)

Yes, cutting a groove and re-plastering is definitely no problem, especially indoors. It’s more difficult to do on the outside.

We currently maintain an indoor temperature between 22 and 23 degrees Celsius (72 and 73°F), which is very comfortable. The bedroom gets too warm at 23 degrees Celsius (73°F), so we ventilate at night to bring it down to 21.8 degrees Celsius (71°F). That’s just right.

However, now that tropical nights are approaching, you’re pretty much doomed and will just end up sweating 😀. But honestly: finally summer! After this spring, I’d rather sweat (and I say that as a true winter and cold enthusiast 😀).

And there’s always the option to sleep in the basement, which we really enjoy during the peak of summer. It stays pleasantly cool 🙂

Deliverer schrieb:

And before anyone asks: I also ventilate thoroughly in the morning and keep the house shaded from the outside during the day.

And still, active cooling is necessary? 🙄

Underfloor heating temperature control is completely sufficient in our timber frame house. 😉

Yes. Where I live, it is warm in the summer.

I recently stayed overnight at my parents’ place. No mechanical ventilation system, no external venetian blinds, and a one-and-a-half-story house.

I honestly didn’t remember it being this bad at these temperatures. It felt like 70% humidity, 29°C (84°F) on the ground floor despite internal shading, and about 35°C (95°F) under the roof in the upper floor, like being in a sauna.