ᐅ House without a garage and basement? Converting the attic? Vent pipe?
Created on: 24 Jun 2015 19:59
G
Grym
We have been considering the following:
If we want to build without a basement and without a garage, preferably with just a carport, does it make sense – and what would the cost difference be – to convert the attic instead?
We plan to build a structure approximately 10.50 meters x 8.50 meters (34.4 ft x 27.9 ft) along the street. On top, a gable roof with a 45-degree pitch (alternatively: only 40 degrees), and the knee wall on the first floor should be about 1.40 meters (4.6 ft) high. At the highest point, the interior height would probably be around 2.80 meters (9.2 ft).
Instead of insulating the top floor ceiling, we would insulate the roof. For cost reasons, the top floor ceiling would remain a wooden beam construction (I assume?). The attic would be an unheated secondary space but equipped with at least one ventilation opening.
The staircase up to the attic should be reasonably comfortable. What is the cost of a standard residential staircase? We might simply extend the living area staircase to the attic if the additional cost is not too high.
In the medium term, we want a wood-and-metal design carport for two cars next to the house, with bike racks in the rear area (which in my opinion looks much better than a concrete and steel garage box). The bikes would be weather-protected but quickly accessible. Necessary garden tools will be stored in the utility room; unnecessary items, seasonal goods, heirlooms, etc., will go into the attic (within the thermal envelope and ventilated by a controlled residential ventilation system). Likewise, winter storage of the garden chairs would be in the attic; in summer, they will remain outside permanently.
It is also unclear whether and what kind of equipment could be located in the utility room (ground or air source heat pump, controlled residential ventilation system, hot water hygiene storage tank, etc.).
Another question is what the cost impact would be for this kind of attic conversion (planned from the start and carried out by the general contractor) compared to the standard option (insulating the top floor ceiling, insulated pull-down stairs to the unheated attic space).
If we want to build without a basement and without a garage, preferably with just a carport, does it make sense – and what would the cost difference be – to convert the attic instead?
We plan to build a structure approximately 10.50 meters x 8.50 meters (34.4 ft x 27.9 ft) along the street. On top, a gable roof with a 45-degree pitch (alternatively: only 40 degrees), and the knee wall on the first floor should be about 1.40 meters (4.6 ft) high. At the highest point, the interior height would probably be around 2.80 meters (9.2 ft).
Instead of insulating the top floor ceiling, we would insulate the roof. For cost reasons, the top floor ceiling would remain a wooden beam construction (I assume?). The attic would be an unheated secondary space but equipped with at least one ventilation opening.
The staircase up to the attic should be reasonably comfortable. What is the cost of a standard residential staircase? We might simply extend the living area staircase to the attic if the additional cost is not too high.
In the medium term, we want a wood-and-metal design carport for two cars next to the house, with bike racks in the rear area (which in my opinion looks much better than a concrete and steel garage box). The bikes would be weather-protected but quickly accessible. Necessary garden tools will be stored in the utility room; unnecessary items, seasonal goods, heirlooms, etc., will go into the attic (within the thermal envelope and ventilated by a controlled residential ventilation system). Likewise, winter storage of the garden chairs would be in the attic; in summer, they will remain outside permanently.
It is also unclear whether and what kind of equipment could be located in the utility room (ground or air source heat pump, controlled residential ventilation system, hot water hygiene storage tank, etc.).
Another question is what the cost impact would be for this kind of attic conversion (planned from the start and carried out by the general contractor) compared to the standard option (insulating the top floor ceiling, insulated pull-down stairs to the unheated attic space).
I do believe this will work. I showed the plan to my wife, and she said that as long as there’s space for a coat closet, it’s fine. A 120cm (47 inches) hallway is definitely not too narrow.
The utility room is no farther from the living room than it would be if it were located in the hallway. The kitchen is even closer to the living room than it would be if accessed from the hallway. I don’t understand why measurements should be taken from the front door. The living room is the central space in the house; if I want to optimize distances, it makes more sense to measure from the living room to room X (kitchen, utility room).
The utility room is no farther from the living room than it would be if it were located in the hallway. The kitchen is even closer to the living room than it would be if accessed from the hallway. I don’t understand why measurements should be taken from the front door. The living room is the central space in the house; if I want to optimize distances, it makes more sense to measure from the living room to room X (kitchen, utility room).
S
Sebastian7916 Jul 2015 09:02Don’t feed the trolls...
But take a look at Flur’s darkroom, and that’s just one of many mistakes.
Have you asked your wife if she’s as annoyed by your numerous floor plans as most people here or in the Green forum?
Then I can well imagine that she agrees to everything without objection because she knows you’ll present her with another floor plan tomorrow.
I’ve also drawn some floor plans, but a floor plan like the one you just drew, I would have discarded before anyone else ever saw it.
Have you asked your wife if she’s as annoyed by your numerous floor plans as most people here or in the Green forum?
Then I can well imagine that she agrees to everything without objection because she knows you’ll present her with another floor plan tomorrow.
I’ve also drawn some floor plans, but a floor plan like the one you just drew, I would have discarded before anyone else ever saw it.
The floor plan is basically a slightly modified catalog design, which should work fine. I haven’t changed the hallway width at all. In a show home by the provider, a similar hallway was used, and it felt quite spacious to us. A width of 120 or possibly 125 cm (47 or 49 inches) should be enough for a door with a large glass sidelight.
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