ᐅ Floor Plan Optimization for Urban Villa + Considerations for Land Elevation

Created on: 31 Jan 2020 13:29
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Shiny86
Plot size 492 sqm (5293 sq ft)
Slope yes
Site coverage ratio?
Floor area ratio?
Building envelope, building line, and boundary?
Boundary development?
Number of parking spaces 2
Number of floors 2
Roof type Pyramid roof, 25 degrees
Architectural style Modern urban villa
Orientation Main entrance facing north
Maximum heights/limits
Additional requirements?

Clients’ Requirements
Style, roof type, building type
Modern urban villa with pyramid roof, 25 degrees
Basement, floors 2 full floors without basement
Number of occupants 4
Open kitchen, kitchen island
Number of parking spaces 8-10
Garage


House design
Who designed it?
-Architect

What do you particularly like? Why?

Large living area, master bathroom

What don’t you like? Why?
Utility room quite small and master bedroom small, children’s room somewhat too large

Why is the design as it is now?
The architect implemented the corresponding wishes

What do you think is especially good or bad about it?
Good: large living area
I am uncertain about the half-height window sizes and the swing direction of the doors


What is the most important/basic question about the floor plan summarized in 130 characters?

  • Where could it still be optimized? Would you recommend different window dimensions or sill heights?
  • What do you think is poor or what would you do differently?
  • A partition wall will be added in the walk-in closet. That would theoretically allow watching TV from the bed. I am considering a lightweight wall. I plan to place a 211cm (83 inches) Pax combination wardrobe in the closet. The closet is planned with a raw width of 218cm (86 inches). Do you think 218cm is enough for the Pax once the walls are plastered, or how wide should the rough dimensions preferably be?
  • Is the hallway on the ground floor too narrow?
  • Would you raise the ground level? The house would be 40cm (16 inches) below street level. If I build a terrace into the garden, it would be about 1m (3 ft) difference. You could raise only the house level, resulting in approximately 1.6m (5 ft) difference between terrace and garden. I don’t know anyone living below street level. Raising the garden would probably not be allowed without permits, and affected neighbors likely wouldn’t agree. On the sides of the house adjacent to neighbors, raising is permitted only up to certain limits. I am overwhelmed with the decision.
  • Do you have any ideas for arranging the sofa differently and placing the TV sensibly? My husband doesn’t want the sofa back facing a window. I still need to get used to placing the sofa in the middle of the room.
  • Is the kitchen size sufficient for a nice kitchen with an island?


What do you think about the floor plans?

Floor plan of a single-family house: living/dining area, kitchen, hallway, storage room, cloakroom, WC.


Floor plan of a family home: CHILD 1, CHILD 2, PARENTS, WALK-IN CLOSET, BATHROOM, SHOWER/BATHROOM, HALLWAY.


Architectural drawing: two-story residential house with garage; southwest and northeast views.


Two facade views of a house: northwest and southeast with roof, windows, terrace, and garage.
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Crossy
26 Mar 2020 17:03
A structural dimension of 3.20 m (10 ft 6 in) is quite tight. That leaves about 66–67 cm (26–27 in) on each side.
While that might still work now when you’re young, try managing with a walker or any mobility limitation as you get older. For me, 3.60 m (11 ft 10 in) would really be the minimum, but you’ll have to weigh that yourselves.
Large children’s rooms are obviously nice, but 18 square meters (194 square feet) is already spacious; it doesn’t have to be 20 square meters (215 square feet). Of course, everything depends on the stair position, and if you move that, the kitchen might become too narrow.

If you want the sink and stove on the island, I would also try to make the island length 3.2 m (10 ft 6 in). After plastering, the clearance would be about 95 cm (37 in), which I think is still acceptable. However, an aisle width of 1.50 m (59 in) is a bit wide. Test that out. Around 1.10 m (43 in) is usually recommended.

You might also want to consider accessing the storage room under the stairs from the kitchen. The door should fit there under the stairs as well.

Will the windows or doors there be tilt-and-turn?
Pinky030126 Mar 2020 17:05
Usually, you purchase or order your kitchen using the floor plan. After that, the kitchen supplier creates an installation plan showing where the sockets need to be located.

Our new kitchen will also have a 3m (10 ft) cooking and sink island, so I believe that will be sufficient. Don’t you have any other appliances like a coffee machine or toaster? A niche in the tall cabinet wall would be suitable for those.
11ant26 Mar 2020 18:16
Shiny86 schrieb:

Is it important that the kitchen is accurately drawn in the floor plan? I mean, besides for your consultation, is it necessary for the electrical planning?

Electricity, gas, water – everything is available in the kitchen. Everything is in the wrong place, not ideal. It’s quite surprising how faithfully builders follow plans when they are incorrect or outdated (the plans, haha).
Shiny86 schrieb:

So a hip roof is allowed again.
It really is, even if it sounds strange.

What exactly does the plan say? – Ridge direction, house orientation, building axis, … – could the house be designed as 10.30 x 10.80 meters (34 x 35.5 feet) with the ridge running along the shorter side? – or do you understandably prefer no roof ridge and rather a hip roof?
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
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chrisw81
27 Mar 2020 09:16
Crossy schrieb:

The row spacing of 1.50m (5 feet) is a bit too wide. Try testing that. About 1.10m (3.6 feet) is recommended.
We also have 1.5m (5 feet), and at first I thought it was too much, but now I actually like not having to squeeze into such a narrow aisle with someone else. I probably wouldn’t go below 1.4m (4.6 feet).
Pinky030127 Mar 2020 10:14
It probably depends on whether it’s a peninsula or an island, and whether work is being done on both sides or not...
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Shiny86
27 Mar 2020 15:42
Crossy schrieb:

A shell construction size of 3.20 m (10.5 ft) is already quite tight. That leaves about 66-67 cm (26-27 inches) on each side.
It’s still manageable while you’re young, of course, but try handling a rollator or any other mobility limitation in old age.

I think it will work. Some forum members have already advised against having a shower on the ground floor, which I wanted for old age. But I’m not building for old age. Otherwise, I would have to do it everywhere consistently. For example, I haven’t considered turning circles anywhere. My husband told me just yesterday that I could also sleep in a kid’s room with my rollator. Those rooms won’t be needed at some point and are large enough.

Regarding the distance to the kitchen units: It is recommended to have at least 1.20 m (4 feet) to be able to open two drawers facing each other, with 1.5 m (5 feet) being ideal. I have enough space for that, so I’m using it fully.

Yes, French doors with stiles are planned. Do you have any tips?

I better have the peninsula properly drawn into the floor plan.

@11ant Honestly, I have no idea what exactly is on the plan. The house salesperson double-checked for us. We actually wanted a hip roof from the start. So that’s fine, and I’m happy about the slightly wider hallway now, since it currently feels too narrow. But you’re right, I don’t gain much with the larger measurement.

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