ᐅ Single-family house with a pitched roof, without a basement – feedback welcome
Created on: 1 Nov 2018 16:05
M
Milmay
Hello everyone,
We are planning to start building our single-family home next year. Currently, we are working on the floor plan, have tried several versions, and are quite satisfied with what we have so far.
I would appreciate it if you could share your opinions and feedback on the floor plan.
Development plan / restrictions:
Plot size: 445 sqm (4789 sq ft)
Slope: no
Site coverage ratio: 0.35
Floor area ratio: 0.7
Number of parking spaces: 2
Number of floors: 2 full stories plus attic conversion later
Roof style: gable roof
Maximum height: eaves height 6.5 m (21 ft 4 in) on the street side
Heating: geothermal
Personal budget limit: 400,000
Client requirements:
No basement
Number of occupants: 2 adults and 3 children
Open kitchen with sliding door
Double garage
The attic will initially be used instead of a basement.
It will also house the heating system and utility room with washing machine and dryer.
Since our family plan is not yet final, an additional children's room could be added in the attic in the future.
We are planning to start building our single-family home next year. Currently, we are working on the floor plan, have tried several versions, and are quite satisfied with what we have so far.
I would appreciate it if you could share your opinions and feedback on the floor plan.
Development plan / restrictions:
Plot size: 445 sqm (4789 sq ft)
Slope: no
Site coverage ratio: 0.35
Floor area ratio: 0.7
Number of parking spaces: 2
Number of floors: 2 full stories plus attic conversion later
Roof style: gable roof
Maximum height: eaves height 6.5 m (21 ft 4 in) on the street side
Heating: geothermal
Personal budget limit: 400,000
Client requirements:
No basement
Number of occupants: 2 adults and 3 children
Open kitchen with sliding door
Double garage
The attic will initially be used instead of a basement.
It will also house the heating system and utility room with washing machine and dryer.
Since our family plan is not yet final, an additional children's room could be added in the attic in the future.
D
derpikniker3 Nov 2018 23:29kaho674 schrieb:
That all sounds like a special regulation to me. Nope. It’s a simplified summary of the regulations in the regional building code for Rhineland-Palatinate and the federal building code. I had both under my pillow for a while.
kaho674 schrieb:
You’re worrying about the wrong things. That might be true. I studied civil engineering myself for some time, so I’m influenced by that.
kaho674 schrieb:
That actually surprises me. I’ll attach a photo of the current situation here.
kaho674 schrieb:
But finishing attic space as a reserve right away There are different ways of “finishing” an attic. You can equip an attic with a rough slab ceiling and just loosely lay 20cm (8 inches) of mineral wool insulation on top. That’s what most general contractors mean by “finishing.” But you can also properly insulate the attic, install drywall, and fit heating, screed, and electrical wiring. Then, when you complete it later, you only need to add a second layer of drywall, flooring, painting, and doors. That’s the approach I have in mind.
kaho674 schrieb:
If you take the laundry out of the dryer, it’s dry anyway. One of the reasons for a large laundry room is that I can also dry clothes there without a dryer. That way, I don’t have to pay €1 in coal-generated electricity for every load, but let nature do it for free. Since we do this about one to two times a day, financially it breaks even after roughly 10 years. Not to mention the wear and tear on the dryer and the clothes themselves. That’s why I want a combined laundry and drying room in the attic. If the attic is later converted, for example because of a new child or foster care, the laundry room will move into the smallest bedroom on the upper floor.
derpikniker schrieb:
not using coal-based electricity, but letting good old nature do it for free. Since we do this about once or twice a day, we break even financially after roughly 10 years. Not to mention the wear and tear on the dryer and the clothes themselves.That’s probably what my grandmother would have said... and she would have used it as an argument for stiff towels. It’s understandable that you’ve looked back 50 years, but not at the time you will actually live in the house.
derpikniker schrieb:
@ kbt09: The staircase layout I prefer along the exterior wall also works. As I already mentioned, the ceiling height in the middle of the stair landing is 230 cm (7 ft 6 in). My kids probably won’t grow that tall. No ... it doesn’t work if the attic floor has no knee wall.
This shows a landing staircase along the exterior wall where the attic floor has an 80 cm (31.5 in) knee wall.
Or is the attic floor supposed to have a knee wall above the upper floor?
EDIT:
And this looks like there is no knee wall in the attic floor:
Before I step away from this very interesting thread (interesting because of the complex conditions involved), I have to say that improvements are only possible if the original poster (OP) takes a step back.
Now, I don’t see the purpose of the thread anymore. I feel a bit sorry for the lady, who is the OP here, but is completely dominated by her partner.
Good luck to the OP.
Now, I don’t see the purpose of the thread anymore. I feel a bit sorry for the lady, who is the OP here, but is completely dominated by her partner.
Good luck to the OP.
First, a somewhat provocative remark on the garage topic: it is quite rare that both cars are newly purchased vehicles that require garage storage.
I initially plan all walls just by their location and afterwards assign dimensions—starting from the upper ones. It really pays off to draw freely during the sketch phase.
I do the same with windows: first their location, then the dimensions; and I place them exactly where I want light and/or a view. You can politely wave to curious passersby so they get used to not peeking inside. In any case, I don’t base my sill heights on that.
Really not? Is there no option to enable a grid overlay?
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
derpikniker schrieb:
Therefore, I plan at least all walls on the ground floor to be load-bearing
I initially plan all walls just by their location and afterwards assign dimensions—starting from the upper ones. It really pays off to draw freely during the sketch phase.
I do the same with windows: first their location, then the dimensions; and I place them exactly where I want light and/or a view. You can politely wave to curious passersby so they get used to not peeking inside. In any case, I don’t base my sill heights on that.
kaho674 schrieb:
No, sorry.
Really not? Is there no option to enable a grid overlay?
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
derpikniker schrieb:
- I planned a total ground floor area of 122m² (1312 sq ft), including the built-over garage. Additionally, there are 18m²/2 (194 sq ft/2) for the driveway, 6m²/2 (65 sq ft/2) for the path to the front door, 25m²/2 (269 sq ft/2) for the garage, and the 12m²/4 (129 sq ft/4) of the terrace as required by the building authority. We might still need to declare another terrace or sealed areas. I have a reserve of 5m² (54 sq ft) for that. Are you sure about these half-share proportions? Is that explicitly stated anywhere?
It would be really unfortunate if you misunderstood something. As I read it, the floor area ratio applies to the house and terrace. (For you, the house includes one garage – unlucky.) But I thought the paths aren’t counted at 50%, rather they are allowed as long as the total does not exceed 50% of the floor area ratio – so 222.5m² (2396 sq ft) in total. I have no idea either. Maybe someone else can shed some light on this.
[/QUOTE]
derpikniker schrieb:
I’ll attach a picture of the current situation. Uh, is that coming?
derpikniker schrieb:
There’s "finishing" and then there’s "finishing." You can equip an attic with a raw concrete slab ceiling and just loosely lay 20cm (8 inches) of mineral wool on top. That’s what most general contractors mean by "finishing." But you can also properly insulate the attic, simply plasterboard it, and install heating, screed, and electrical wiring – so that for the final finishing you just need to install the second layer of plasterboard, flooring, painting, and doors. That’s what I have in mind. Haha, yeah, I figured as much. We can discuss that again when you plan your financing.
I’m pretty sure you can initially leave out things like the stairs to the attic and still keep it as a finishing reserve. Then you simply close the opening with drywall for now. But I admit I have no experience there.
Unfortunately, I think that will not be enough for the attic. Maybe post a question in the financing thread. People there will calculate it for you and have really good experience with that.
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