Hello,
I have installed three toe-kick drawers in my old Faktum kitchen. However, these drawers stick out about 4mm (0.16 inches) further than the other toe kicks that are attached directly to the cabinet legs. If I wanted to add soft-closing mechanisms to the drawers, the difference would be about 6mm (0.24 inches).
So, I would need to insert something about 4mm (0.16 inches) thick between the toe kicks that are attached directly to the cabinet legs. But I’m not sure how to achieve this. The only idea I have is to screw the toe kick onto the cabinet using an angle bracket...
I hope someone understands my situation and can help me out.
Best regards,
Sabsn
I have installed three toe-kick drawers in my old Faktum kitchen. However, these drawers stick out about 4mm (0.16 inches) further than the other toe kicks that are attached directly to the cabinet legs. If I wanted to add soft-closing mechanisms to the drawers, the difference would be about 6mm (0.24 inches).
So, I would need to insert something about 4mm (0.16 inches) thick between the toe kicks that are attached directly to the cabinet legs. But I’m not sure how to achieve this. The only idea I have is to screw the toe kick onto the cabinet using an angle bracket...
I hope someone understands my situation and can help me out.
Best regards,
Sabsn
Do the rails end flush with the white bracket? Yes
Why is the baseboard cut off at the top? The baseboard is cut at the top because I thought the edging on the underside would offer better protection against moisture (and then I have the metal edge protection on top).
If it’s fine at the bottom, you could turn it around and apply some edging on the underside. I only have a jigsaw right now, which doesn’t allow me to make a perfectly straight 60cm (24 inch) cut. It might look bad if the cut is a bit wavy.
For now, I’ve temporarily wedged a 4mm (0.16 inch) object between the baseboard fastener (this semi-open clip) and the cabinet side panel. This eliminates any step between the drawer and the other baseboards. However, it’s a bit unstable, and I would also need to wedge a 4mm (0.16 inch) piece at both the top and bottom of the baseboard to prevent it from tipping forwards or backwards. Otherwise, the fastener holds fine even with the 4mm (0.16 inch) spacer between the clip and the side panel.
Is there really no other way?
- The option described above
- Leave out the aluminum plate
- Fix the baseboard to the underside of the cabinet using brackets
I
IKEA-Experte24 Jan 2017 23:13And what if you don’t push the cut pieces, on which the baseboard clips sit, all the way in?
And what if you don’t fully push in the small pieces where the baseboard clips sit? I’ve thought about that too. However, the small piece won’t stay secure that way. It’s a bit loose, and I would need a spacer at both the top and bottom of the baseboard again (where the baseboard normally rests on the cabinet base, top and bottom, there would then be a gap of a few millimeters (inches)).
I
IKEA-Experte25 Jan 2017 11:59When you look from the side, is the drawer fully closed all the way in, or what is touching what?
I
IKEA-Experte25 Jan 2017 15:39The front slope cannot be adjusted. You can only place something under the connecting strut at the back. If that adds 2mm (0.08 inches) and 2mm (0.08 inches) for the metal sheet, that would make a total of 4mm (0.16 inches).
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