Hello,
I have installed three toe-kick drawers in my old Faktum kitchen. However, these drawers stick out about 4mm (0.16 inches) further than the other toe kicks that are attached directly to the cabinet legs. If I wanted to add soft-closing mechanisms to the drawers, the difference would be about 6mm (0.24 inches).
So, I would need to insert something about 4mm (0.16 inches) thick between the toe kicks that are attached directly to the cabinet legs. But I’m not sure how to achieve this. The only idea I have is to screw the toe kick onto the cabinet using an angle bracket...
I hope someone understands my situation and can help me out.
Best regards,
Sabsn
I have installed three toe-kick drawers in my old Faktum kitchen. However, these drawers stick out about 4mm (0.16 inches) further than the other toe kicks that are attached directly to the cabinet legs. If I wanted to add soft-closing mechanisms to the drawers, the difference would be about 6mm (0.24 inches).
So, I would need to insert something about 4mm (0.16 inches) thick between the toe kicks that are attached directly to the cabinet legs. But I’m not sure how to achieve this. The only idea I have is to screw the toe kick onto the cabinet using an angle bracket...
I hope someone understands my situation and can help me out.
Best regards,
Sabsn
I
IKEA-Experte24 Jan 2017 19:42Hello,
did you install a standard drawer under the cabinet or the special plinth drawer?
did you install a standard drawer under the cabinet or the special plinth drawer?
I
IKEA-Experte24 Jan 2017 20:14Dampers? You can’t mount those on the rails at all. Or was something changed towards the end?
You can screw the rails one hole further back on the brackets. Then nothing should stick out anymore. The aluminum plate is not absolutely necessary, so you could save a bit there, but not 4 mm (0.16 inches).
You can screw the rails one hole further back on the brackets. Then nothing should stick out anymore. The aluminum plate is not absolutely necessary, so you could save a bit there, but not 4 mm (0.16 inches).
By "dampers," I meant those small round adhesive plastic pieces that come with all drawers.
The rail was installed exactly as described in the instructions. I don’t think moving the rail one hole further back on the brackets would help. At best, I’d just end up with a 2mm (0.08 inch) step.
Without the aluminum plate, the cut edges would be visible. So that’s not really an option either, unless you know where to get edge banding or edging strips by the meter (Ikea Sofiel and/or Brokhult).
The rail was installed exactly as described in the instructions. I don’t think moving the rail one hole further back on the brackets would help. At best, I’d just end up with a 2mm (0.08 inch) step.
Without the aluminum plate, the cut edges would be visible. So that’s not really an option either, unless you know where to get edge banding or edging strips by the meter (Ikea Sofiel and/or Brokhult).
I
IKEA-Experte24 Jan 2017 22:31The buffers don't really help.
Do the rails end with the white bracket? Then, of course, it doesn't make sense to screw the rails one hole further back. I didn't have this issue with the base drawer, so I'm a bit surprised.
Why is the baseboard cut off at the top? If the bottom side is fine, you can turn it over and attach some edge banding on the underside.
Do the rails end with the white bracket? Then, of course, it doesn't make sense to screw the rails one hole further back. I didn't have this issue with the base drawer, so I'm a bit surprised.
Why is the baseboard cut off at the top? If the bottom side is fine, you can turn it over and attach some edge banding on the underside.
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