ᐅ How can the height of Pax wardrobes be adjusted?

Thank you for the detailed description, Wyatt! I would like to add that experience has shown me that patience and caution are essential when shortening the height. Especially if you don’t have a professional workshop background, it’s easy to make uneven cuts that can damage the cabinet or make assembly more difficult. If possible, it’s worth working with someone experienced in painting or woodworking, as the visible surfaces should remain as clean as possible.

Additionally, I recommend that when reinforcing, you consider not only the technical aspects but also maintaining a visually cohesive appearance – for example, by choosing moldings that match the cabinet’s color scheme or by treating them with paint that complements the color.

A question I often encounter is whether shortening the height causes problems with the door’s functionality. From my experience, the hinges especially need to be correctly repositioned after the height adjustment; otherwise, the alignment will be off. Most hinges allow for height adjustment, but the new mounting points must be measured precisely. If not, the door may no longer close flush or operate smoothly. If you are not confident in doing this yourself, it is better to consult a carpenter.

I can only confirm the comments about the hinges. To add: The Pax doors and hinges are somewhat adjustable in their mounting holes, but the new measurements must be transferred precisely using a square and measuring tape. If the height is reduced, I also recommend checking the magnetic locks or door dampers, as their function may be affected by the changed position.

For non-professionals, shortening the carcass is therefore a rather advanced task where accurate measurements and proper reinforcement are crucial. In addition, the back panel should not be cut too short or become unstable, as it provides overall structural stability.

I believe it’s okay to get a bit creative sometimes! If someone isn’t aiming for perfect professional work but still wants to adjust the height, shortening the top works quite well, especially if you then add a decorative trim or finishing edge. This way, the cut edge is no longer visible, and any minor imperfections can be easily concealed. However, this is not a solution if you need something extremely precise.

What I also did: I attached some rubber buffers to the underside of the doors in case they were a bit too tight or squeaky after installation – it’s often these small details that make the difference!

Thank you very much for the detailed advice! To summarize, the best approach before shortening seems to be:
- taking precise measurements,
- using high-quality sawing equipment,
- professionally finishing edges and cut surfaces,
- adding reinforcements (wood strips or brackets),
- readjusting hinges and doors,
- possibly shortening and stabilizing the back panel as well.

Are there any recommendations on the best way to cut back panels? For example, which tools or techniques work best? Since back panel materials are usually thin, I am concerned they might fray or splinter easily when sawing.

Deogrit schrieb:
Are there any recommendations on the best way to shorten the back panels? For example, which tools or techniques to use?

Yes, this is a critical point. The back panels of Pax units are usually made of a thin hardboard panel (MDF or similar) that can easily break or splinter. I recommend:

- Use a fine-toothed hand saw or a circular saw with a fine blade.
- Cut with a guide rail to ensure straight cuts.
- Clearly mark the cutting line with a fine pencil.
- If possible, cut from the backside where the coating is less sensitive to protect the visible side.
- After cutting, smooth the edges lightly with fine sandpaper (grit 180-220).

Alternatively, you can replace the back panel with a new piece cut to size, which can be custom made with CNC cutting at a lumber or woodworking supplier. Although this is more expensive, it is very stable and precise.