ᐅ How can I safely install IKEA Platsa units on drywall (gypsum board) walls?

pauline1 schrieb:
Today I tested with a stud finder and actually found several metal studs, so I want to attach the Platsa to them.

Great that you found the substructure!

Directly screwing into metal studs is possible, but you will need self-tapping metal screws or appropriate metal drill screws, depending on the thickness of the profile. Simply using a regular wood screw is not ideal and could damage the stud.

To better distribute the load, you can also use washers to increase the bearing surface and prevent the screw from cutting into the edge material.

Make sure the screws are long enough to securely penetrate the metal stud and hold firmly. If the profile is too thin, reinforcing it with, for example, a wooden batten fixed to the wall might be a good idea to provide additional fastening points.

Would you like some advice on which screws work best? Or would you prefer to describe the measurements of the metal studs in more detail?

nikian schrieb:
Should I give some advice on which screws work best? Or do you want to describe the exact dimensions of the metal profiles?

Thanks, yes please, tips on screws would be great! The metal profiles are about 1.5 mm (0.06 inches) thick and made of galvanized steel. So far, I have only seen screws with a Phillips head and an initially sharp thread. Do I need to pre-tap the thread, or do these screws cut through the metal profile themselves? I want to make the assembly as neat as possible.

And one more question: Is it better to fix the IKEA Platsa to the wall before loading it with contents or attaching the doors, or does it not make any difference?

pauline1 schrieb:
The metal profiles are approximately 1.5 mm (0.06 inches) thick and made of galvanized steel.

For a thickness of 1.5 mm (0.06 inches), metal self-drilling screws (also called Tek screws) are ideal. These screws have a special drill tip, so generally no pre-drilling is needed. The screw essentially drills itself through the metal as long as the material is not too thick.

A few tips:
- Use stainless steel or galvanized screws to prevent corrosion
- The screw length should be at least 10-15 mm (0.4-0.6 inches) longer than the thickness of the profile plus the thickness of the furniture part
- Use washers to better secure the furniture and to distribute the pressure more evenly

For securing during assembly: It is advisable to first fix the cabinet to the wall and then attach the doors or load the cabinet. This way, you can better ensure that everything is straight and secure. Otherwise, the cabinet may loosen or tilt under load.

Textile tape or foam rubber between the cabinet and the wall helps to eliminate minor irregularities and protects the drywall surface. Screw directly into metal studs using self-drilling metal screws; do not forget the washer.

pauline1 schrieb:
I have already heard that special anchors or maybe additional reinforcement are needed because drywall alone is not very load-bearing.

That's absolutely correct! And if, as you already know, you can’t anchor into the studs, you should use drywall toggle anchors. These open up behind the board and distribute the load. However, do it properly and don’t just hope “it will hold.” Otherwise, that’s a guaranteed recipe for trouble and unpleasant surprises! Secure fastening is really crucial for a cabinet like that – you don’t just want to create storage space but also ensure safety.

I can well understand that you feel uncertain about a drywall, I felt the same way. In the end, I also used metal studs as attachment points and worked with metal self-tapping screws – I also added a small wooden batten between the cabinet and the wall for reinforcement. That gave me a good feeling, and I was able to check the fastening well. If you like, I can also tell you how I fixed the batten – it gave me the feeling of having double security.