ᐅ Floor Plan Optimization for Urban Villa + Considerations for Land Elevation
Created on: 31 Jan 2020 13:29
S
Shiny86
Plot size 492 sqm (5293 sq ft)
Slope yes
Site coverage ratio?
Floor area ratio?
Building envelope, building line, and boundary?
Boundary development?
Number of parking spaces 2
Number of floors 2
Roof type Pyramid roof, 25 degrees
Architectural style Modern urban villa
Orientation Main entrance facing north
Maximum heights/limits
Additional requirements?
Clients’ Requirements
Style, roof type, building type
Modern urban villa with pyramid roof, 25 degrees
Basement, floors 2 full floors without basement
Number of occupants 4
Open kitchen, kitchen island
Number of parking spaces 8-10
Garage
House design
Who designed it?
-Architect
What do you particularly like? Why?
Large living area, master bathroom
What don’t you like? Why?
Utility room quite small and master bedroom small, children’s room somewhat too large
Why is the design as it is now?
The architect implemented the corresponding wishes
What do you think is especially good or bad about it?
Good: large living area
I am uncertain about the half-height window sizes and the swing direction of the doors
What is the most important/basic question about the floor plan summarized in 130 characters?
What do you think about the floor plans?
Slope yes
Site coverage ratio?
Floor area ratio?
Building envelope, building line, and boundary?
Boundary development?
Number of parking spaces 2
Number of floors 2
Roof type Pyramid roof, 25 degrees
Architectural style Modern urban villa
Orientation Main entrance facing north
Maximum heights/limits
Additional requirements?
Clients’ Requirements
Style, roof type, building type
Modern urban villa with pyramid roof, 25 degrees
Basement, floors 2 full floors without basement
Number of occupants 4
Open kitchen, kitchen island
Number of parking spaces 8-10
Garage
House design
Who designed it?
-Architect
What do you particularly like? Why?
Large living area, master bathroom
What don’t you like? Why?
Utility room quite small and master bedroom small, children’s room somewhat too large
Why is the design as it is now?
The architect implemented the corresponding wishes
What do you think is especially good or bad about it?
Good: large living area
I am uncertain about the half-height window sizes and the swing direction of the doors
What is the most important/basic question about the floor plan summarized in 130 characters?
- Where could it still be optimized? Would you recommend different window dimensions or sill heights?
- What do you think is poor or what would you do differently?
- A partition wall will be added in the walk-in closet. That would theoretically allow watching TV from the bed. I am considering a lightweight wall. I plan to place a 211cm (83 inches) Pax combination wardrobe in the closet. The closet is planned with a raw width of 218cm (86 inches). Do you think 218cm is enough for the Pax once the walls are plastered, or how wide should the rough dimensions preferably be?
- Is the hallway on the ground floor too narrow?
- Would you raise the ground level? The house would be 40cm (16 inches) below street level. If I build a terrace into the garden, it would be about 1m (3 ft) difference. You could raise only the house level, resulting in approximately 1.6m (5 ft) difference between terrace and garden. I don’t know anyone living below street level. Raising the garden would probably not be allowed without permits, and affected neighbors likely wouldn’t agree. On the sides of the house adjacent to neighbors, raising is permitted only up to certain limits. I am overwhelmed with the decision.
- Do you have any ideas for arranging the sofa differently and placing the TV sensibly? My husband doesn’t want the sofa back facing a window. I still need to get used to placing the sofa in the middle of the room.
- Is the kitchen size sufficient for a nice kitchen with an island?
What do you think about the floor plans?
haydee schrieb:
But you need to specify the exact requirements, such as special waterproofing or screed needed, different build-up heights, etc., otherwise there will be thresholds, patched slopes, and so on.
Room 1 will have a covering with an 8mm (0.3 inch) build-up, the hallway with 12mm (0.5 inch), and the bathroom with 4mm (0.16 inch). The height differences will be evened out over the screed.
And what dimensions will the doors have? So how is this done? Do you lay parquet floors everywhere first and then do the bathrooms? The painter also applies screed before starting to plaster.
A general contractor who builds ready-to-move-in homes knows the exact floor structure height needed for the chosen floor covering and plans the screed accordingly (which can vary in height from room to room). The staircase installer receives precise specifications, and the door manufacturer has the correct measurements. If the general contractor does their job properly, the floor will be level without height differences, the stairs will fit perfectly, and the doors will align correctly—without needing additional patching or sanding.
If you remove the floor, you should provide the necessary information and ask for it to be incorporated into the detailed planning by the screed installer and others involved.
Why do you remove trades that you are not specialized in and assign them yourself? There are professionals for this: architects, construction supervisors, and so on.
Such a project is a complex, interconnected system.
If you remove the floor, you should provide the necessary information and ask for it to be incorporated into the detailed planning by the screed installer and others involved.
Why do you remove trades that you are not specialized in and assign them yourself? There are professionals for this: architects, construction supervisors, and so on.
Such a project is a complex, interconnected system.
haydee schrieb:
A general contractor (GC) who builds ready-to-move-in homes knows the thickness of the floor buildup required for the chosen flooring and plans the screed accordingly (which will vary in height from room to room). The stair builder receives precise measurements, and the door installer has the correct dimensions. If the GC does their job properly, the floor will be level without height differences, the stairs will fit exactly, and so will the doors—without any need for additional filling or sanding.
If you remove the floor yourself, you should pass on the necessary information and ask that it be taken into account in the execution planning by the screed installer and others involved.
Why do you subcontract trades that are outside your expertise and manage them yourselves? That’s what professionals like architects, construction supervisors, and others are for.
A construction project is like a finely tuned clockwork. We have to install the parquet ourselves, for example.
I thought tiles are also considered a type of flooring.
So you are suggesting that the GC should handle the seamless surface finishing in the bathrooms or assign it to their trusted painter subcontractor, so that we don’t have to manage this part of the organization ourselves?
We are currently discussing this with our installer. He needs to know whether to allow 1cm (0.4 inches) for tiles or less for plaster. He requires this information, for example, for the fixtures (how far they will protrude) or for the shower tray (how tightly it will be installed).
Shiny86 schrieb:
Why are seamless microcement bathrooms doomed to fail? I didn’t specifically mean the wall covering in the bathroom, but rather the general attitude of inexperienced people trying to take control away from the professionals. A staircase is a particularly tricky joint and trip hazard.
haydee schrieb:
A construction like this is a finely tuned mechanism And the original poster always carries sand in their pocket just in case it’s needed to throw into the gears.
Shiny86 schrieb:
The painter also lays the screed before starting to plaster. Screed. The painter. Oh right, you already said that.
Shiny86 schrieb:
I’m completely lost now. haydee schrieb:
What works is handing over responsibility. Fewer interfaces, fewer mistakes, less for you to worry about. In construction-specific terms, that means: for your first house, build it without any custom modifications. Not even the flooring would I get from anywhere other than the general contractor’s usual supplier. If necessary, it’ll just be laminate. Then, after six to eight years, with a solid track record as a reliable mortgage payer, you take all your experience living in a single-family home and build your second house. Done.
haydee schrieb:
If someone completely lacks spatial awareness, 3D views with dollhouse furniture won’t help either. Only a 3D model with properly scaled furniture will do. In 2D plans, the dollhouse furniture can still be seen as a sort of post-it note, just marking where the real furniture should go. But in 3D, it becomes almost a sworn falsehood, since most clients associate 3D with virtual reality and don’t expect to encounter a virtual fabrication.
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