Hello,
here I would like to share some experiences and data regarding my brine heat pump and deep drilling, based in part on the expert’s "questionnaire":
a) What is the soil composition on your property?
Up to 3m (10 feet) silty, fine sandy, clayey soil
Up to 4m (13 feet) slope debris, rock fragments
Then bedrock (mainly limestone)
b) How deep was the drilling?
Drilled twice to a depth of 72m (236 feet)
c) How much did the drilling cost?
€10,400 including double U-probes DN25
Grouting material with 2.0 W/mK thermal conductivity
Permitting process (building permit / planning permission)
Pressure-tight house entry at the basement and underground routing of supply lines (about 25m (82 feet))
Filling/draining equipment, filling, pressure testing, etc. (all inclusive)
d) How much did the system cost?
System: Tecalor TTc 05 with heating output at B0/W35 of 5.8 kW and coefficient of performance (COP) of 4.8
Cost: €9,800
e) Were there any difficulties during installation, if so, what kind?
Because the water used to flush out the drilled material during drilling seeped away, a "small compressor" was needed to blow it out with air. However, it had to be placed on a neighbor’s property who had not yet started building. The machine was the size and approximate weight of a 20-ton truck but was off-road capable. This caused a 2-day delay because the compressor first had to be transported to our site. No additional costs were charged.
f) How is the daily operation?
"Like a refrigerator." Once the parameters on the heating system are correctly set, the only thing that should be done is occasionally reading the information/data such as operating hours and source temperature. Otherwise, it runs "on its own," just like any heating system. When the door is closed, the unit is virtually inaudible. Very discreet since, apart from the cabinet in the utility room, nothing else is visible (all brine pipes are underground).
e) What are the operating costs for which living area?
Currently, a living area of 180sqm (1937 sqft) is heated, plus an additional 65sqm (700 sqft) of cellar space within the insulated thermal envelope (these rooms are around 15-16°C (59-61°F) on the coldest days). From September 2014 to September 2015, 2,000 kWh of electricity was consumed for heating and hot water (2 adults, 1 baby, 1 toddler). The house is a KfW-70 standard building according to the 2009 energy saving regulations, which already met the required technical standards before the central ventilation system with enthalpy heat exchanger was installed (we decided to add this after the initial applications).
f) to be continued ....
Note regarding the comparison of the coefficient of performance (COP):
Since optimizing the heating curve and settings at the end of last year, the system has had a COP of about 5.5. Operating hours are around 1200; the deep borehole was drilled approximately 20% deeper than initially recommended by the companies, at our own request.
here I would like to share some experiences and data regarding my brine heat pump and deep drilling, based in part on the expert’s "questionnaire":
a) What is the soil composition on your property?
Up to 3m (10 feet) silty, fine sandy, clayey soil
Up to 4m (13 feet) slope debris, rock fragments
Then bedrock (mainly limestone)
b) How deep was the drilling?
Drilled twice to a depth of 72m (236 feet)
c) How much did the drilling cost?
€10,400 including double U-probes DN25
Grouting material with 2.0 W/mK thermal conductivity
Permitting process (building permit / planning permission)
Pressure-tight house entry at the basement and underground routing of supply lines (about 25m (82 feet))
Filling/draining equipment, filling, pressure testing, etc. (all inclusive)
d) How much did the system cost?
System: Tecalor TTc 05 with heating output at B0/W35 of 5.8 kW and coefficient of performance (COP) of 4.8
Cost: €9,800
e) Were there any difficulties during installation, if so, what kind?
Because the water used to flush out the drilled material during drilling seeped away, a "small compressor" was needed to blow it out with air. However, it had to be placed on a neighbor’s property who had not yet started building. The machine was the size and approximate weight of a 20-ton truck but was off-road capable. This caused a 2-day delay because the compressor first had to be transported to our site. No additional costs were charged.
f) How is the daily operation?
"Like a refrigerator." Once the parameters on the heating system are correctly set, the only thing that should be done is occasionally reading the information/data such as operating hours and source temperature. Otherwise, it runs "on its own," just like any heating system. When the door is closed, the unit is virtually inaudible. Very discreet since, apart from the cabinet in the utility room, nothing else is visible (all brine pipes are underground).
e) What are the operating costs for which living area?
Currently, a living area of 180sqm (1937 sqft) is heated, plus an additional 65sqm (700 sqft) of cellar space within the insulated thermal envelope (these rooms are around 15-16°C (59-61°F) on the coldest days). From September 2014 to September 2015, 2,000 kWh of electricity was consumed for heating and hot water (2 adults, 1 baby, 1 toddler). The house is a KfW-70 standard building according to the 2009 energy saving regulations, which already met the required technical standards before the central ventilation system with enthalpy heat exchanger was installed (we decided to add this after the initial applications).
f) to be continued ....
Note regarding the comparison of the coefficient of performance (COP):
Since optimizing the heating curve and settings at the end of last year, the system has had a COP of about 5.5. Operating hours are around 1200; the deep borehole was drilled approximately 20% deeper than initially recommended by the companies, at our own request.
spooky0815 schrieb:
Thanks Mastenmind1 for the explanation – I get the principle…. basically, we have a fixed setting for the controllers in the house and never touch them. The bedrooms are set to zero, as is the guest room, which is the only one adjusted depending on the situation. The rest remains constant.
I have one more question: if my wife wants a cozy warm bathroom floor, should we lower the base temperature and turn the room thermostat up all the way, or increase the base temperature and lower all the other controllers in the house? The second option causes your heat pump to cycle very briefly because closing all the controllers in the house faster except for the bathroom means it won’t heat either. This is due to the heat pump’s minimum flow rate not being reached.
spooky0815 schrieb:
Thanks Mastenmind1 for the explanation – I get the principle. Basically, we have a fixed setting on the thermostats in the house and never adjust them. The bedrooms are set to zero, as is the guest room, which is the only one occasionally adjusted depending on the situation. The rest remains constant.
I have one more question: if my wife wants a cozy warm bathroom floor, should we lower the base temperature and turn the room thermostat up fully, or increase the base temperature and lower all other thermostats in the house?Cozy warm means a surface temperature higher than body temperature. That’s unrealistic.
Underfloor heating does not create hot feet.
Your second option comes closest to the goal but is inefficient.
Alex85 schrieb:
Cozy warm means a surface temperature higher than body temperature. That’s ridiculous.When outside temperatures drop significantly in winter, so that the supply temperature is >= 30°C (86°F), the bathroom tiles are already pleasantly warm, not only when >37°C (99°F). For most of the year, the tiles feel rather "undetectable." You only really notice the difference when you step on tiles without heating underneath (e.g., utility room).
The approach is exactly right. Maximum openness of all loops results in a low supply temperature and, through high hysteresis, a longer runtime. You can cook pasta at 99°C (210°F) in 10 minutes, or at 50°C (122°F) it just takes 5 hours.
The heat pump operates best at the lowest possible temperature, but to get the heat into the house under these conditions, you need long runtimes and many loops fully open.
So, open the loops in the bedrooms wide as well.
Tip: Buy an inexpensive infrared thermometer. Then attach a strip of masking tape to each return pipe of the underfloor heating. After a long runtime (weather conditions might not be ideal for this right now), measure the temperature differences. Where the temperature is noticeably higher, you have too much flow. I did this in two houses and managed to extend my heating cycles to 4 hours.
The heat pump operates best at the lowest possible temperature, but to get the heat into the house under these conditions, you need long runtimes and many loops fully open.
So, open the loops in the bedrooms wide as well.
Tip: Buy an inexpensive infrared thermometer. Then attach a strip of masking tape to each return pipe of the underfloor heating. After a long runtime (weather conditions might not be ideal for this right now), measure the temperature differences. Where the temperature is noticeably higher, you have too much flow. I did this in two houses and managed to extend my heating cycles to 4 hours.
C
chand198618 May 2018 23:07A quick question for the experts here: Would it make sense, for the following scenario, to do this: If I want a) the bathroom particularly warm, b) the living areas at a normal temperature, and c) the bedrooms especially cool, could I simply adjust the density of the heating pipes per square meter of floor in each room (higher density in the bathroom, lower density in the bedrooms) and then run the heating system at the same setting throughout the entire house?
It sounds like this would technically provide the most efficient solution?
It sounds like this would technically provide the most efficient solution?
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