Hello,
here I would like to share some experiences and data regarding my brine heat pump and deep drilling, based in part on the expert’s "questionnaire":
a) What is the soil composition on your property?
Up to 3m (10 feet) silty, fine sandy, clayey soil
Up to 4m (13 feet) slope debris, rock fragments
Then bedrock (mainly limestone)
b) How deep was the drilling?
Drilled twice to a depth of 72m (236 feet)
c) How much did the drilling cost?
€10,400 including double U-probes DN25
Grouting material with 2.0 W/mK thermal conductivity
Permitting process (building permit / planning permission)
Pressure-tight house entry at the basement and underground routing of supply lines (about 25m (82 feet))
Filling/draining equipment, filling, pressure testing, etc. (all inclusive)
d) How much did the system cost?
System: Tecalor TTc 05 with heating output at B0/W35 of 5.8 kW and coefficient of performance (COP) of 4.8
Cost: €9,800
e) Were there any difficulties during installation, if so, what kind?
Because the water used to flush out the drilled material during drilling seeped away, a "small compressor" was needed to blow it out with air. However, it had to be placed on a neighbor’s property who had not yet started building. The machine was the size and approximate weight of a 20-ton truck but was off-road capable. This caused a 2-day delay because the compressor first had to be transported to our site. No additional costs were charged.
f) How is the daily operation?
"Like a refrigerator." Once the parameters on the heating system are correctly set, the only thing that should be done is occasionally reading the information/data such as operating hours and source temperature. Otherwise, it runs "on its own," just like any heating system. When the door is closed, the unit is virtually inaudible. Very discreet since, apart from the cabinet in the utility room, nothing else is visible (all brine pipes are underground).
e) What are the operating costs for which living area?
Currently, a living area of 180sqm (1937 sqft) is heated, plus an additional 65sqm (700 sqft) of cellar space within the insulated thermal envelope (these rooms are around 15-16°C (59-61°F) on the coldest days). From September 2014 to September 2015, 2,000 kWh of electricity was consumed for heating and hot water (2 adults, 1 baby, 1 toddler). The house is a KfW-70 standard building according to the 2009 energy saving regulations, which already met the required technical standards before the central ventilation system with enthalpy heat exchanger was installed (we decided to add this after the initial applications).
f) to be continued ....
Note regarding the comparison of the coefficient of performance (COP):
Since optimizing the heating curve and settings at the end of last year, the system has had a COP of about 5.5. Operating hours are around 1200; the deep borehole was drilled approximately 20% deeper than initially recommended by the companies, at our own request.
here I would like to share some experiences and data regarding my brine heat pump and deep drilling, based in part on the expert’s "questionnaire":
a) What is the soil composition on your property?
Up to 3m (10 feet) silty, fine sandy, clayey soil
Up to 4m (13 feet) slope debris, rock fragments
Then bedrock (mainly limestone)
b) How deep was the drilling?
Drilled twice to a depth of 72m (236 feet)
c) How much did the drilling cost?
€10,400 including double U-probes DN25
Grouting material with 2.0 W/mK thermal conductivity
Permitting process (building permit / planning permission)
Pressure-tight house entry at the basement and underground routing of supply lines (about 25m (82 feet))
Filling/draining equipment, filling, pressure testing, etc. (all inclusive)
d) How much did the system cost?
System: Tecalor TTc 05 with heating output at B0/W35 of 5.8 kW and coefficient of performance (COP) of 4.8
Cost: €9,800
e) Were there any difficulties during installation, if so, what kind?
Because the water used to flush out the drilled material during drilling seeped away, a "small compressor" was needed to blow it out with air. However, it had to be placed on a neighbor’s property who had not yet started building. The machine was the size and approximate weight of a 20-ton truck but was off-road capable. This caused a 2-day delay because the compressor first had to be transported to our site. No additional costs were charged.
f) How is the daily operation?
"Like a refrigerator." Once the parameters on the heating system are correctly set, the only thing that should be done is occasionally reading the information/data such as operating hours and source temperature. Otherwise, it runs "on its own," just like any heating system. When the door is closed, the unit is virtually inaudible. Very discreet since, apart from the cabinet in the utility room, nothing else is visible (all brine pipes are underground).
e) What are the operating costs for which living area?
Currently, a living area of 180sqm (1937 sqft) is heated, plus an additional 65sqm (700 sqft) of cellar space within the insulated thermal envelope (these rooms are around 15-16°C (59-61°F) on the coldest days). From September 2014 to September 2015, 2,000 kWh of electricity was consumed for heating and hot water (2 adults, 1 baby, 1 toddler). The house is a KfW-70 standard building according to the 2009 energy saving regulations, which already met the required technical standards before the central ventilation system with enthalpy heat exchanger was installed (we decided to add this after the initial applications).
f) to be continued ....
Note regarding the comparison of the coefficient of performance (COP):
Since optimizing the heating curve and settings at the end of last year, the system has had a COP of about 5.5. Operating hours are around 1200; the deep borehole was drilled approximately 20% deeper than initially recommended by the companies, at our own request.
M
Markus130418 Oct 2018 17:42Thank you for your feedback. So, opinions differ here as well. For now, I will operate without nighttime setback. The issue was caused by a faulty sensor.
@Saruss: You are talking about adjusting the heating curve to the house. What is the most effective way to do this?
@Saruss: You are talking about adjusting the heating curve to the house. What is the most effective way to do this?
Saruss schrieb:
It would be nice if you started by making an argument!The argument was made in #308. I emphasize once again, as you apparently overlooked this in your reflex to snap back, that this is not my argument. So you can keep beating around the bush, but I will not elaborate further.
@Markus1304 Just search for heating curve or heating characteristic. I find the explanation on the bosy online site quite good (he tends to explain things in detail, which I like ) and I also once found a good description on the Viessmann site.
After that, you just have to experiment and adjust...
After that, you just have to experiment and adjust...
R
readytorumble19 Oct 2018 07:37The heating curve cannot be adjusted quickly. It requires at least one winter plus the transition period. Change only one parameter at a time and then wait 1–2 days.
On days when there is additional heat input from outside, for example from the sun, no adjustments should be made.
In short: lower the base level and slope enough so that even on cold, dark days the coldest room stays just warm enough.
Ideally, all individual room thermostats are always fully open (making them essentially redundant) and the rooms maintain the desired temperature thanks to appropriate flow rates.
On days when there is additional heat input from outside, for example from the sun, no adjustments should be made.
In short: lower the base level and slope enough so that even on cold, dark days the coldest room stays just warm enough.
Ideally, all individual room thermostats are always fully open (making them essentially redundant) and the rooms maintain the desired temperature thanks to appropriate flow rates.
readytorumble schrieb:
In short: Lower the level and slope enough so that even on cold and dark days, the coldest room is still just warm enough.Is this a misunderstanding on my part, or did you phrase it incorrectly?Doesn't the heating curve need to be adjusted so that the warmest room is just warm enough? You then control the cooler rooms by adjusting the flow rate.
By the way, it took me about three years for this.
In the first and second years, I adjusted the heating curve using the ERR.
At first, it felt too cold during the transitional seasons (so the level was too low), and in winter it was too warm (so I lowered the slope). What you set during the transitional periods doesn’t necessarily work for winter and vice versa. So, you check in the next transitional season how the winter settings performed and adjust again.
One winter and one transitional season are actually not enough, or you’d have to keep detailed records not only of heating system data and settings but also of weather and personal comfort levels.
In the third year, I gradually adjusted the flow rates, and once no further changes were necessary, I deactivated the valves to reduce the power consumption caused by valves being constantly open.
If you turn up the heating fully in all rooms and set the heating curve correctly, one room will reach the target temperature (e.g., 22°C (72°F)) while all the others will be warmer. You then need to reduce the heating in those rooms. That’s why referring to the coldest room is accurate.
Ideally, the heating system is properly designed so that all rooms reach the same temperature (or higher if desired, such as in the bathroom).
Ideally, the heating system is properly designed so that all rooms reach the same temperature (or higher if desired, such as in the bathroom).