ᐅ Are there alternative boards or panels available for the Ikea BRIMNES wardrobe?
Created on: 19 Aug 2018 14:23
K
Klastell34K
Klastell3419 Aug 2018 14:23Hello everyone, I am currently considering whether there are alternative shelves or back panels for the Ikea Brimnes wardrobe that do not come from the original manufacturer. The reason is that I would like to replace or upgrade the existing boards after several years of heavy use, but I do not necessarily want to rely on the expensive replacement parts from Ikea.
Are there any products on the market that are comparable in quality or even better, fit the dimensions, and also offer good stability and appearance? Important to me, besides exact measurements, would be a suitable load-bearing capacity and possibly different surface finishes or material qualities (e.g., wood, MDF, particleboard).
Has anyone here already had experience with alternative products or even custom-cut shelves fitted themselves? How does it work with the fittings and compatibility with the mounting brackets inside the wardrobe?
I look forward to your tips and advice, especially if you can recommend specific suppliers or types of materials suitable for the BRIMNES.
Are there any products on the market that are comparable in quality or even better, fit the dimensions, and also offer good stability and appearance? Important to me, besides exact measurements, would be a suitable load-bearing capacity and possibly different surface finishes or material qualities (e.g., wood, MDF, particleboard).
Has anyone here already had experience with alternative products or even custom-cut shelves fitted themselves? How does it work with the fittings and compatibility with the mounting brackets inside the wardrobe?
I look forward to your tips and advice, especially if you can recommend specific suppliers or types of materials suitable for the BRIMNES.
Regarding the topic "Are there alternative shelves for the Ikea BRIMNES wardrobe?" I can provide some detailed advice, as I have personally purchased and customized replacement shelves multiple times.
Basically, standard boards from hardware stores fit as long as the exact dimensions are known: the BRIMNES carcass typically uses shelves measuring 50 cm (20 inches) wide and about 40 cm (16 inches) deep (varies depending on the model, so please measure carefully). The thickness is usually around 1.8 to 2 cm (0.7 to 0.8 inches). It is important that the drilled holes for the supplied dowels and brackets are precisely in the correct positions; otherwise, fitting issues will occur.
Many users therefore buy MDF or chipboard panels with the correct thickness and have the holes drilled at small carpentry workshops or through hardware store services. It is recommended to remove the original shelves, measure the hole distances exactly, and create a template.
Alternatively, solid wood shelves can be found from specialty suppliers, which are often even more durable. These usually need to be sanded smooth and painted or oiled to protect against moisture. Weight should be considered here—solid wood boards can increase the overall weight and may put more strain on the brackets.
The stability of the brackets and the load capacity of the shelves generally depend on the hanging system itself. Therefore, the hole pattern should match, as drilling new holes in the carcass is usually not ideal due to the material.
My question to you would be: Do you need the replacement shelves only to fit, or do you have specific requirements regarding the material (e.g., higher load capacity, special appearance)? Are you also interested in applying the finish yourself?
I hope this gives you a good starting point.
Basically, standard boards from hardware stores fit as long as the exact dimensions are known: the BRIMNES carcass typically uses shelves measuring 50 cm (20 inches) wide and about 40 cm (16 inches) deep (varies depending on the model, so please measure carefully). The thickness is usually around 1.8 to 2 cm (0.7 to 0.8 inches). It is important that the drilled holes for the supplied dowels and brackets are precisely in the correct positions; otherwise, fitting issues will occur.
Many users therefore buy MDF or chipboard panels with the correct thickness and have the holes drilled at small carpentry workshops or through hardware store services. It is recommended to remove the original shelves, measure the hole distances exactly, and create a template.
Alternatively, solid wood shelves can be found from specialty suppliers, which are often even more durable. These usually need to be sanded smooth and painted or oiled to protect against moisture. Weight should be considered here—solid wood boards can increase the overall weight and may put more strain on the brackets.
The stability of the brackets and the load capacity of the shelves generally depend on the hanging system itself. Therefore, the hole pattern should match, as drilling new holes in the carcass is usually not ideal due to the material.
My question to you would be: Do you need the replacement shelves only to fit, or do you have specific requirements regarding the material (e.g., higher load capacity, special appearance)? Are you also interested in applying the finish yourself?
I hope this gives you a good starting point.
G
Genevieve21 Aug 2018 17:05kla69 schrieb:
Many users therefore buy MDF or particleboard panels in the appropriate thickness and have the holes drilled at smaller carpentry workshops or through hardware store services.That might work, but what about long-term durability? IKEA panels often come with special melamine coatings that are more resistant to scratches and moisture. MDF from hardware stores usually lacks this surface treatment, which can lead to wear and tear much faster.
kla69 schrieb:
Many users therefore buy MDF or particleboard panels in the appropriate thickness and have the holes drilled at smaller carpentry workshops or through hardware store services.Furthermore: Is it really certain that the average DIYer or hardware store service can drill these holes with enough precision to ensure the shelves fit securely and without play? Who can guarantee that stability is not compromised here?
I would also question whether these "alternative" boards can match the fit and load-bearing capacity of the original product. Are there reliable user experiences or test reports on such alternatives? Or is this more of a cost-saving makeshift solution that works temporarily but causes problems in the long run?
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