Hello everyone,
I am currently facing a problem that some of you might be familiar with: I want to securely mount my KALLAX shelf from the Ikea range in my older apartment. Unfortunately, the walls here are not simple drywall or concrete, but rather very porous masonry with significant unevenness and probably older materials such as calcium silicate bricks.
My specific question to the community is: What methods, fasteners, and procedures do you use to reliably and safely mount a KALLAX shelf in older apartments?
I am especially interested in which anchors you use (e.g., chemical anchors, expansion anchors, or others), whether you use special tools or mounting rails, and how you handle uneven walls or crumbly substrates.
Since KALLAX shelves can be loaded quite heavily, the mounting needs to be stable and not just hold cosmetically.
I look forward to your experiences, tips, and tricks! Thanks in advance.
I am currently facing a problem that some of you might be familiar with: I want to securely mount my KALLAX shelf from the Ikea range in my older apartment. Unfortunately, the walls here are not simple drywall or concrete, but rather very porous masonry with significant unevenness and probably older materials such as calcium silicate bricks.
My specific question to the community is: What methods, fasteners, and procedures do you use to reliably and safely mount a KALLAX shelf in older apartments?
I am especially interested in which anchors you use (e.g., chemical anchors, expansion anchors, or others), whether you use special tools or mounting rails, and how you handle uneven walls or crumbly substrates.
Since KALLAX shelves can be loaded quite heavily, the mounting needs to be stable and not just hold cosmetically.
I look forward to your experiences, tips, and tricks! Thanks in advance.
Hello Robomin,
I have also installed KALLAX units in an older building with similar masonry. My experience shows that in porous walls, traditional expansion anchors often hold only partially. I have had good results with chemical anchors, as they essentially strengthen the material and provide significantly better holding power.
However, you need a drill bit with the correct diameter and a vacuum cleaner to thoroughly remove the drilling dust. Otherwise, the resin does not bond well during installation.
Mounting rails from Ikea itself or universal models greatly simplify the installation, allowing you to distribute the weight more evenly. Also important: before finally setting the anchors, align everything provisionally, as uneven wall surfaces often need to be compensated for.
In summary:
- Chemical anchors (e.g., injection mortar)
- Mounting or hanging rails
- Precise preparation of drill holes (dust removal!)
This should help you achieve a stable result.
I have also installed KALLAX units in an older building with similar masonry. My experience shows that in porous walls, traditional expansion anchors often hold only partially. I have had good results with chemical anchors, as they essentially strengthen the material and provide significantly better holding power.
However, you need a drill bit with the correct diameter and a vacuum cleaner to thoroughly remove the drilling dust. Otherwise, the resin does not bond well during installation.
Mounting rails from Ikea itself or universal models greatly simplify the installation, allowing you to distribute the weight more evenly. Also important: before finally setting the anchors, align everything provisionally, as uneven wall surfaces often need to be compensated for.
In summary:
- Chemical anchors (e.g., injection mortar)
- Mounting or hanging rails
- Precise preparation of drill holes (dust removal!)
This should help you achieve a stable result.
W
warrenka5716 Oct 2024 10:11Robomin, I know how frustrating that can be, especially when you’re not completely sure if the mounting will hold. I have two KALLAX units in my older house, and my walls were even a bit more fragile.
In addition to the chemical anchors mentioned, I also screwed a metal plate to the wall and attached the shelf to it. This helps distribute the load better. However, it’s more of a demolition job, since I had some cracking around the holes before.
It was also important to me that the shelf is not just hanging but secured against tipping, especially with children in the house!
How do you deal with unevenness? I placed small wooden wedges behind the rail and filled the gaps with filler until everything was flush.
In addition to the chemical anchors mentioned, I also screwed a metal plate to the wall and attached the shelf to it. This helps distribute the load better. However, it’s more of a demolition job, since I had some cracking around the holes before.
It was also important to me that the shelf is not just hanging but secured against tipping, especially with children in the house!
How do you deal with unevenness? I placed small wooden wedges behind the rail and filled the gaps with filler until everything was flush.
Hello Robomin,
to answer your question in detail, here is a brief guide based on my experience:
1. Material Analysis: First, identify the type of wall material (e.g., solid brick, calcium silicate brick, aerated concrete). The type of wall determines the appropriate anchor type.
2. Drill Hole Preparation: Always clean drill holes with a vacuum cleaner or blower to remove dust. This is crucial for the adhesion of chemical anchors.
3. Anchor Selection:
- For brittle masonry, chemical anchors (injection mortar) work very well.
- For solid walls, nylon expansion anchors are sufficient.
- Alternatively, use special cavity anchors if hollow spaces are present.
4. Mounting Rails:
If you use a longer rail (e.g., IKEA mounting rail or universal rails), the weight is distributed much better, and you can align it precisely.
5. Installation: Attach the rail to the wall, use a spirit level, and if needed, small wedges or shims to compensate for unevenness.
6. Tilt Protection:
I also recommend always installing safety brackets at the top of the shelf to prevent tipping, especially if there are children or pets.
Summary:
- Chemical anchors for a durable bond
- Clean drill holes
- Use mounting rails
- Careful leveling and compensation
- Don’t forget tilt protection
If you want more details on any of the steps, just let me know.
to answer your question in detail, here is a brief guide based on my experience:
1. Material Analysis: First, identify the type of wall material (e.g., solid brick, calcium silicate brick, aerated concrete). The type of wall determines the appropriate anchor type.
2. Drill Hole Preparation: Always clean drill holes with a vacuum cleaner or blower to remove dust. This is crucial for the adhesion of chemical anchors.
3. Anchor Selection:
- For brittle masonry, chemical anchors (injection mortar) work very well.
- For solid walls, nylon expansion anchors are sufficient.
- Alternatively, use special cavity anchors if hollow spaces are present.
4. Mounting Rails:
If you use a longer rail (e.g., IKEA mounting rail or universal rails), the weight is distributed much better, and you can align it precisely.
5. Installation: Attach the rail to the wall, use a spirit level, and if needed, small wedges or shims to compensate for unevenness.
6. Tilt Protection:
I also recommend always installing safety brackets at the top of the shelf to prevent tipping, especially if there are children or pets.
Summary:
- Chemical anchors for a durable bond
- Clean drill holes
- Use mounting rails
- Careful leveling and compensation
- Don’t forget tilt protection
If you want more details on any of the steps, just let me know.
blapau schrieb:
Chemical anchors (e.g., injection mortar)Thanks, blapau, that was my first thought as well. Do you possibly have a specific brand or product you would recommend?warrenka57 schrieb:
Metal plate screwed to the wall and the shelf attached to it.That sounds interesting! How exactly did you install the mounting plate, and what material did you use for the plate?Nabla64 schrieb:
Use mounting railsExactly, I was also considering the mounting rail. I will probably go with the original one from Ikea. I just thought the unfinished wall might make it a bit tricky to mount the rail perfectly straight. Am I right that shims are used for that?Thanks for the detailed responses so far, looking forward to more of your tips.
Robomin, I had the same issue with unevenness. I got some small plastic wedges from the hardware store and adjusted the rail step by step. It's important not to tighten the screws right away, but first loosely fasten them, then align everything, and finally tighten the screws completely.
Another thing that helps me is doing a dry run of the shelf and rail on the wall before final installation. This way, you can clearly see where adjustments are needed.
Robomin schrieb:Yes, that's exactly how I did it.
Am I correct in understanding that wedges are used here?
Another thing that helps me is doing a dry run of the shelf and rail on the wall before final installation. This way, you can clearly see where adjustments are needed.
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