Hello everyone,
I am currently facing a problem that some of you might be familiar with: I want to securely mount my KALLAX shelf from the Ikea range in my older apartment. Unfortunately, the walls here are not simple drywall or concrete, but rather very porous masonry with significant unevenness and probably older materials such as calcium silicate bricks.
My specific question to the community is: What methods, fasteners, and procedures do you use to reliably and safely mount a KALLAX shelf in older apartments?
I am especially interested in which anchors you use (e.g., chemical anchors, expansion anchors, or others), whether you use special tools or mounting rails, and how you handle uneven walls or crumbly substrates.
Since KALLAX shelves can be loaded quite heavily, the mounting needs to be stable and not just hold cosmetically.
I look forward to your experiences, tips, and tricks! Thanks in advance.
I am currently facing a problem that some of you might be familiar with: I want to securely mount my KALLAX shelf from the Ikea range in my older apartment. Unfortunately, the walls here are not simple drywall or concrete, but rather very porous masonry with significant unevenness and probably older materials such as calcium silicate bricks.
My specific question to the community is: What methods, fasteners, and procedures do you use to reliably and safely mount a KALLAX shelf in older apartments?
I am especially interested in which anchors you use (e.g., chemical anchors, expansion anchors, or others), whether you use special tools or mounting rails, and how you handle uneven walls or crumbly substrates.
Since KALLAX shelves can be loaded quite heavily, the mounting needs to be stable and not just hold cosmetically.
I look forward to your experiences, tips, and tricks! Thanks in advance.
To be honest, I always wonder if it really makes sense to attach heavy IKEA shelves to fragile old building walls.
But maybe fastening the shelf to those kinds of walls isn’t the right approach. One could consider stabilizing the shelf freestanding with weights or securing it with a floor stop instead of relying on the old walls.
Just a thought to provoke discussion 🙂 What do you think?
Nabla64 schrieb:– Honestly, anti-tip safety is a must anyway, whether it’s an old building or a new one.
Don’t forget the anti-tip safety
But maybe fastening the shelf to those kinds of walls isn’t the right approach. One could consider stabilizing the shelf freestanding with weights or securing it with a floor stop instead of relying on the old walls.
Just a thought to provoke discussion 🙂 What do you think?
GALEO4, your approach is valid, but if the shelf is to be fixed to the wall, secure fastenings are essential.
Freestanding solutions are an option but may significantly change the room layout.
For fixing to older walls, I recommend the following procedure:
- Determine the wall material (e.g., calcium silicate brick, clay brick, aerated concrete)
- Choose suitable anchors: injection mortar for porous substrates, heavy-duty anchors for solid walls
- Remove drill dust before inserting anchors
- Use mounting rails to distribute weight
- For large unevenness, consider using additional shims and leveling compound
This way, you can make a well-informed decision that ensures safety.
Freestanding solutions are an option but may significantly change the room layout.
For fixing to older walls, I recommend the following procedure:
- Determine the wall material (e.g., calcium silicate brick, clay brick, aerated concrete)
- Choose suitable anchors: injection mortar for porous substrates, heavy-duty anchors for solid walls
- Remove drill dust before inserting anchors
- Use mounting rails to distribute weight
- For large unevenness, consider using additional shims and leveling compound
This way, you can make a well-informed decision that ensures safety.
Robomin,
I would like to add a point that is often overlooked: load distribution. The KALLAX shelf can hold a lot of weight, especially when books or heavy decorative items are placed on it. Therefore, you should never secure it only at the top corners, but choose at least three attachment points, ideally with a continuous mounting rail or multiple brackets in the middle section.
Also, I recommend using a strong drill (preferably an SDS drill bit) before installation and drilling at a slow pace to avoid causing cracks.
Another important tip: after drilling, blow out the holes with compressed air to ensure the anchors hold firmly.
I would like to add a point that is often overlooked: load distribution. The KALLAX shelf can hold a lot of weight, especially when books or heavy decorative items are placed on it. Therefore, you should never secure it only at the top corners, but choose at least three attachment points, ideally with a continuous mounting rail or multiple brackets in the middle section.
Also, I recommend using a strong drill (preferably an SDS drill bit) before installation and drilling at a slow pace to avoid causing cracks.
Another important tip: after drilling, blow out the holes with compressed air to ensure the anchors hold firmly.
Hey everyone! I find this topic really interesting because I am currently planning a KALLAX project in an older building myself!
I am doing it similarly to what Nabla64 described: chemical anchors are really amazing because they provide much more security than simple expansion anchors. My recommendation: Fischer FIS V or similar products from Hilti.
What helps a lot is a spirit level with a magnet and a good hammer drill.
I’m really looking forward to seeing my shelf installed 🙂 🙂
I am doing it similarly to what Nabla64 described: chemical anchors are really amazing because they provide much more security than simple expansion anchors. My recommendation: Fischer FIS V or similar products from Hilti.
What helps a lot is a spirit level with a magnet and a good hammer drill.
I’m really looking forward to seeing my shelf installed 🙂 🙂
GALEO4 schrieb:That’s also an option, but I prefer the classic and secure way of mounting it to the wall. Safety first!
Freestanding... weights for stability
Thanks to everyone for the detailed advice!
One more question: Has anyone had experience with installing anchors in particularly crumbly klinker brickwork with a high sand content? I’m concerned that the chemical anchor might not hold if the material doesn’t properly grip.
Are there any techniques to internally reinforce the masonry before installing anchors?
Thanks for your assessments.
One more question: Has anyone had experience with installing anchors in particularly crumbly klinker brickwork with a high sand content? I’m concerned that the chemical anchor might not hold if the material doesn’t properly grip.
Are there any techniques to internally reinforce the masonry before installing anchors?
Thanks for your assessments.
Robomin, this is indeed a challenging topic.
With very crumbly brickwork, the only effective solution is often to drill the holes particularly deep and blow out the dust thoroughly. Then I recommend a chemical anchoring method using a two-component injection system, as this mortar cures inside the drilled hole and “binds” the porous structure.
Alternatively, I have tried to stabilize the hole somewhat using a special masonry foam or even gypsum filler before placing the anchor. However, this is a rather uncertain method and requires experience.
In general:
- Use higher-quality injection mortars
- Clean the holes very carefully
- Use a generous amount of mortar
This is not a 100% guarantee, but it significantly improves durability.
With very crumbly brickwork, the only effective solution is often to drill the holes particularly deep and blow out the dust thoroughly. Then I recommend a chemical anchoring method using a two-component injection system, as this mortar cures inside the drilled hole and “binds” the porous structure.
Alternatively, I have tried to stabilize the hole somewhat using a special masonry foam or even gypsum filler before placing the anchor. However, this is a rather uncertain method and requires experience.
In general:
- Use higher-quality injection mortars
- Clean the holes very carefully
- Use a generous amount of mortar
This is not a 100% guarantee, but it significantly improves durability.
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