Hello everyone
Development plan / Restrictions
Plot size: 2429 m² (26,134 sq ft)
Slope: slight downward slope to the left (when looking at the plot from the street)
Building envelope, building line and boundary: only 5 m (16 ft) setback at front and back
Floor area ratio: 0.4
Number of floors: 1 full floor
(There are actually no further restrictions such as roof pitch or similar.)
Client requirements
Style, roof shape, building type: originally 2 full floors desired → townhouse
Basement, floors: no basement, 2 floors
Number of occupants, age: 2 (planned 4), 23 & 26
Space requirements on ground and upper floors
Office: family use
Guest overnight stays per year: difficult to estimate, rather few
Open or closed architecture
Conservative or modern construction
No open kitchen, preferably with cooking island
Number of dining seats: 6 (+ expandable up to 12 for birthdays/Christmas)
Fireplace: yes
Music / stereo wall: 5.1 surround system
Balcony, roof terrace: no
Double garage
Small utility garden
Other features: it should be a smart home
House design
Who designed it: Do-it-Yourself, 3D view by developer
What do you dislike? Why? More covered terrace would be desirable
Cost estimate according to architect/planner: €265k for the house + €58k for garage
Personal price limit for house, including equipment: €300k - €320k (DIY electrical work possible)
Preferred heating system: geothermal heat pump
If you have to give up something, which details / additions
- can you give up: size of children’s rooms and bedroom
Why is the design the way it is now? months of self-planning
What is the most important / fundamental question about the floor plan in 130 characters?
Basically, we like the layout. Of course, considering the cost, it would be good to save a few square meters without noticeably losing living space. That’s the crucial point. Is the floor plan practical? Or could small adjustments yield more (space/comfort/cost)?
The file Grundriss 2 shows our planned layout on the plot with approximate sun path. On the left side in the top view there is already a bungalow. The land slopes down increasingly to the right, and nothing has been built there yet. Two full floors are possible there. No trees are present. The plot consists only of meadow.
I hope I have covered the essentials and look forward to your feedback.
Best regards, denz
Development plan / Restrictions
Plot size: 2429 m² (26,134 sq ft)
Slope: slight downward slope to the left (when looking at the plot from the street)
Building envelope, building line and boundary: only 5 m (16 ft) setback at front and back
Floor area ratio: 0.4
Number of floors: 1 full floor
(There are actually no further restrictions such as roof pitch or similar.)
Client requirements
Style, roof shape, building type: originally 2 full floors desired → townhouse
Basement, floors: no basement, 2 floors
Number of occupants, age: 2 (planned 4), 23 & 26
Space requirements on ground and upper floors
Office: family use
Guest overnight stays per year: difficult to estimate, rather few
Open or closed architecture
Conservative or modern construction
No open kitchen, preferably with cooking island
Number of dining seats: 6 (+ expandable up to 12 for birthdays/Christmas)
Fireplace: yes
Music / stereo wall: 5.1 surround system
Balcony, roof terrace: no
Double garage
Small utility garden
Other features: it should be a smart home
House design
Who designed it: Do-it-Yourself, 3D view by developer
What do you dislike? Why? More covered terrace would be desirable
Cost estimate according to architect/planner: €265k for the house + €58k for garage
Personal price limit for house, including equipment: €300k - €320k (DIY electrical work possible)
Preferred heating system: geothermal heat pump
If you have to give up something, which details / additions
- can you give up: size of children’s rooms and bedroom
Why is the design the way it is now? months of self-planning
What is the most important / fundamental question about the floor plan in 130 characters?
Basically, we like the layout. Of course, considering the cost, it would be good to save a few square meters without noticeably losing living space. That’s the crucial point. Is the floor plan practical? Or could small adjustments yield more (space/comfort/cost)?
The file Grundriss 2 shows our planned layout on the plot with approximate sun path. On the left side in the top view there is already a bungalow. The land slopes down increasingly to the right, and nothing has been built there yet. Two full floors are possible there. No trees are present. The plot consists only of meadow.
I hope I have covered the essentials and look forward to your feedback.
Best regards, denz
I would definitely rotate the staircase by 90 degrees and relocate the passage, taking it from the utility room and using the space for a properly deep built-in wardrobe cabinet. This way, you get a neat hallway without the utility room being cluttered with laundry and heating equipment.
denz. schrieb:
So, the walls on the upper floor should rather be built with 17.5 cm (7 inches)? For whom or what would that be beneficial?
I assume it’s a timber truss roof and that the engineer will increase the wall thickness to 17.5 cm (7 inches) under the ridge, but I don’t see any further need for that.
Otus11 schrieb:
Unfortunately, 17.5 cm (7 inches) sand-lime bricks are not very generous either. Because they are usually hollow inside nowadays... (2-3 vertical tubes). So what? – For a Metallica concert hall, those “tubes” are too small anyway; what else are they supposed to be used for?
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
@ypg That’s a good point as well. However, this would result in a long hallway in that area. I’m still unsure how that would look.
@11ant I don’t quite understand you. First, you ask what the purpose of it is, and then you say it will be done that way. Well... I wrote that because @Otus11 said the walls were too thin from a soundproofing perspective.
I don’t understand the second paragraph.
@11ant I don’t quite understand you. First, you ask what the purpose of it is, and then you say it will be done that way. Well... I wrote that because @Otus11 said the walls were too thin from a soundproofing perspective.
I don’t understand the second paragraph.
denz. schrieb:
I don’t quite understand you. First, you ask what the purpose is, and then you say it will happen that way. I only see a wall that I would have made thicker—because I expect the structural engineer to recommend it. Why else would anyone make walls thicker there?
denz. schrieb:
the walls would be too thin from a soundproofing point of view. I also had only 11.5 cm (4.5 inches) toward my younger brother and I’m still alive. All this fuss (that only a diamond is hard enough to block sound, and that sand-lime brick is basically a compromise) seems wildly exaggerated to me. The argument that the brick is hollow is true—but the conclusion that this is a disadvantage for sound insulation is not.
If you don’t have siblings practicing drums nearby, a regular standard wall is not too thin. Non-load-bearing walls of 11.5 cm (4.5 inches) are absolutely sufficient.
Most people who talk about sound in homebuilding forums are also proud of their “D grade” in physics; they don’t differentiate between different types of sound, frequencies, and transmission paths. They have simply glanced at some manufacturer’s brochure comparison chart stating basically: You must buy our brick, otherwise you’ll need walls a meter thick or earplugs. Then they just pass on that nonsense.
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
Ok. I will wait to see if the structural engineer requires the wall to be larger, and if not, I can still consider it later.
One thing I noticed: I think the garage should be made a bit wider, around 7.60 meters (25 feet), since I’m planning 2 meters (6.5 feet) per car, with 1 to 1.20 meters (3.3 to 4 feet) between the two cars to get through with the motorcycle (which is currently 0.8 meters (2.6 feet) wide). On each side, I would allow 1.20 meters (4 feet) so that on one side there is easy access from the utility room door into the workshop, and on the other side there might be space to hang winter tires on the wall, while still being able to open the doors without any problems.
A bit longer would also be nice since I’m counting on a vehicle length of 5 meters (16.5 feet). That leaves 25 cm (10 inches) in the front and back. This is impractical on the side of the utility room, because you also want to be able to get through to the workshop there. I understand now that opening the trunk is not really possible; I don’t think it’s reasonable to plan an extra meter (3.3 feet) just for that.
So now, to allow easy passage from the utility room to the workshop and to the second car, I could recess the wall either halfway or completely by about 0.5 meters (20 inches). This would make the workshop smaller, but I don’t see another option. The alternative would be not aligning the workshop flush with the house, but I don’t think that would look good.
By the way, the motorcycle also needs to fit in the workshop. Initially, it was planned to park it in front of the second car, but then the wall to the workshop would have to be moved further, making the workshop a very long, narrow space.
I just thought of another idea: the workshop could be made only half as big. The wall in front of the first car (the right one) could be removed, and that area could be used for bicycles (which also need a place) and the motorcycle, while keeping the workshop as a proper workshop.
What do you all think about this?
One thing I noticed: I think the garage should be made a bit wider, around 7.60 meters (25 feet), since I’m planning 2 meters (6.5 feet) per car, with 1 to 1.20 meters (3.3 to 4 feet) between the two cars to get through with the motorcycle (which is currently 0.8 meters (2.6 feet) wide). On each side, I would allow 1.20 meters (4 feet) so that on one side there is easy access from the utility room door into the workshop, and on the other side there might be space to hang winter tires on the wall, while still being able to open the doors without any problems.
A bit longer would also be nice since I’m counting on a vehicle length of 5 meters (16.5 feet). That leaves 25 cm (10 inches) in the front and back. This is impractical on the side of the utility room, because you also want to be able to get through to the workshop there. I understand now that opening the trunk is not really possible; I don’t think it’s reasonable to plan an extra meter (3.3 feet) just for that.
So now, to allow easy passage from the utility room to the workshop and to the second car, I could recess the wall either halfway or completely by about 0.5 meters (20 inches). This would make the workshop smaller, but I don’t see another option. The alternative would be not aligning the workshop flush with the house, but I don’t think that would look good.
By the way, the motorcycle also needs to fit in the workshop. Initially, it was planned to park it in front of the second car, but then the wall to the workshop would have to be moved further, making the workshop a very long, narrow space.
I just thought of another idea: the workshop could be made only half as big. The wall in front of the first car (the right one) could be removed, and that area could be used for bicycles (which also need a place) and the motorcycle, while keeping the workshop as a proper workshop.
What do you all think about this?
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