ᐅ Which type of staircase did you choose?

Hello,

Knallkörper schrieb:
The stair vibrations are transmitted directly to the masonry. That would NEVER work for me.

No, actually significantly fewer vibrations are transmitted to the masonry than with other stairs because, as mentioned, the bolts are mounted in rubber bearings. With standard stringer or steel stairs, on the other hand, everything is transferred directly to the masonry since they are anchored rigidly.

But as long as no elephants are walking up and down the stairs, it’s not a problem at all, provided the house has a proper structural design. If cracks appear just from stair vibrations, I wouldn’t want to be in that house during a storm or even a minor earthquake...

Best regards,

Andreas

WildThing schrieb:
No, the bolts are embedded in rubber within the wall. This means there is an additional sound and vibration insulation layer between the wall and the staircase.

And a general question: Why would that be so bad? Because of possible cracking or due to sound insulation?

Good morning,

I am particularly concerned about sound insulation, as it is very important to me in general. In multi-family buildings, it has been standard practice for some time, following recognized technical standards, to install staircases with vibration isolation. With proper execution, this approach is gradually being adopted in single-family homes as well. Our half-turn concrete staircase has four elastic bearings. The masons left steel protruding in the bearing areas as “connection reinforcement,” because that is the usual practice. So this is only slowly changing. I know many noisy to very noisy staircases. Some steel staircases sound like someone is banging a large cooking pot with a wooden spoon. Depending on the natural frequency of the staircase and the adjacent building components, this sound can be heard throughout the entire house if proper decoupling has not been done. Vibration isolation for structure-borne sound is not trivial; just placing any rubber between two parts is not enough. This requires calculations or experience.

How exactly have you solved the bolts and rubber in your case?

Here is a picture of our staircase.
It was important for us to have a width of 1 meter (3.3 feet) to provide plenty of space across.
As mentioned, it is made of knotty oak with an oiled finish.

Koempy schrieb:
Here is a picture of our staircase.
It was important for us to have a width of 1 meter (3.3 feet) to ensure plenty of space across.
As mentioned, it is knotty oak, oiled.

Is the staircase only a quarter-turn?
The rise looks very steep to me.
Our staircase is also 1 meter (3.3 feet) wide.

ypg schrieb:
Is the staircase only a quarter-turn?
The rise looks very high to me.
We also have 1 meter


Regards

Yes, it is a quarter-turn staircase. Previously, it was a half-turn staircase. Unfortunately, the rise couldn’t be altered otherwise.
Our rise is 19.9 cm (7.8 inches) with a tread depth of 25.2 cm (9.9 inches).
A lower rise would have been possible, but then the tread depth would have been only about 23.x cm (9.x inches), which was too small for us. So we preferred to remove one step instead.
The clear width is 92.8 cm (36.5 inches), which I find very comfortable.
I would have preferred a slightly gentler rise as well, but there was a steel beam in the way that couldn’t be changed.
However, we can live well with it.

We chose a white-stained wooden staircase with oak treads (both to the upper floor and the basement). Personally, I simply prefer wood over stone, so the decision for the material was quite easy—even if it might creak a bit sometimes.