ᐅ Interior walls on the upper floor: lightweight construction instead of masonry?
Created on: 22 Feb 2014 17:19
K
KazaziHello dear forum community,
I have read several times here that for the construction of non-load-bearing partition walls, especially in the attic, lightweight construction is recommended instead of masonry, as it can actually provide better sound insulation than masonry walls, contrary to common belief.
What I haven’t been able to find right away, however, is information on the exact specifications of such walls (material, thickness, construction). Who can help with this?
We would like to request an alternative quote for this; the standard currently still includes masonry walls.
Thank you very much,
Kazazi
I have read several times here that for the construction of non-load-bearing partition walls, especially in the attic, lightweight construction is recommended instead of masonry, as it can actually provide better sound insulation than masonry walls, contrary to common belief.
What I haven’t been able to find right away, however, is information on the exact specifications of such walls (material, thickness, construction). Who can help with this?
We would like to request an alternative quote for this; the standard currently still includes masonry walls.
Thank you very much,
Kazazi
Hello Kazazi,
Putting all technical arguments aside, we are very glad to have masonry.
You have no problems screwing something firmly, drilling a hole, using wall plugs, and it’s done. It holds. Not like hollow wall anchors and screws that don’t hold. And when they pull out, you get a huge hole that’s not easy to patch.
To answer your question about the construction method, as far as I know, a stud frame made of aluminum rails is used, with insulation wool in between and drywall (plasterboard) on top, done. It’s quick and easy. But it’s basically cardboard—no heavy items should be attached!
Best regards
Galahad
Putting all technical arguments aside, we are very glad to have masonry.
You have no problems screwing something firmly, drilling a hole, using wall plugs, and it’s done. It holds. Not like hollow wall anchors and screws that don’t hold. And when they pull out, you get a huge hole that’s not easy to patch.
To answer your question about the construction method, as far as I know, a stud frame made of aluminum rails is used, with insulation wool in between and drywall (plasterboard) on top, done. It’s quick and easy. But it’s basically cardboard—no heavy items should be attached!
Best regards
Galahad
We used lightweight construction on the upper floor.
The insulation is on the inside, with 11.5mm (0.45 inches) drywall panels on the outside. In the bathroom, where tiles are installed, two layers of moisture-resistant drywall (marked green) must be applied one after the other.
For me, having these walls was not a mental issue. After all, this also helped reduce moisture during construction. Additionally, we planned walls upstairs that are not perfectly aligned with the ones below, which provides a structural advantage.
If we had used wallpaper, it wouldn’t have been a problem either, but we did not want wallpaper or fabric wall coverings. So, we had to sand the joint compound again. However, you can still partly see where individual drywall panels meet or where patching was done (by us during sanding and reapplying compound).
We also had to reinforce several walls, specifically where a sliding partition door was to be installed and where wall cabinets were planned. Of course, this came at an additional cost.
Conclusion: I would recommend using masonry walls! Possibly a drywall partition where a future opening is planned. The sloped walls will be covered with panels anyway. Alternatively, it’s important to budget for a high-quality level 4 (Q4) finishing of the drywall joints right from the start.
I also have to disagree with or correct Galahad on the topic of anchors: even with Poroton or other hollow bricks or aerated concrete, different anchors are required than for sand-lime bricks. So, it doesn’t really matter when you visit the hardware store.
We haven’t had any outliers or similar issues either.
The insulation is on the inside, with 11.5mm (0.45 inches) drywall panels on the outside. In the bathroom, where tiles are installed, two layers of moisture-resistant drywall (marked green) must be applied one after the other.
For me, having these walls was not a mental issue. After all, this also helped reduce moisture during construction. Additionally, we planned walls upstairs that are not perfectly aligned with the ones below, which provides a structural advantage.
If we had used wallpaper, it wouldn’t have been a problem either, but we did not want wallpaper or fabric wall coverings. So, we had to sand the joint compound again. However, you can still partly see where individual drywall panels meet or where patching was done (by us during sanding and reapplying compound).
We also had to reinforce several walls, specifically where a sliding partition door was to be installed and where wall cabinets were planned. Of course, this came at an additional cost.
Conclusion: I would recommend using masonry walls! Possibly a drywall partition where a future opening is planned. The sloped walls will be covered with panels anyway. Alternatively, it’s important to budget for a high-quality level 4 (Q4) finishing of the drywall joints right from the start.
I also have to disagree with or correct Galahad on the topic of anchors: even with Poroton or other hollow bricks or aerated concrete, different anchors are required than for sand-lime bricks. So, it doesn’t really matter when you visit the hardware store.
We haven’t had any outliers or similar issues either.
Kazazi schrieb:
...., as contrary to common rumors, this can even provide better sound insulation than masonry walls.... Rumors are often spread online and in forums, especially by anonymous "advisors," usually without any professional training! Why not ask them what financial or personal liability they assume for their "wise" advice! Best regards
Our "lightweight walls" have a wooden frame inside, insulation, double-layered wooden panels, and gypsum board on top. I can hang a kitchen cabinet on them with a Spax screw without any problems. I’m not sure if "lightweight construction" is a standardized term, but our "lightweight construction" is very sturdy. Acoustically, it is challenging – the walls are still somewhat sound-transmissive, probably similar to Y-Ton material,...
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