ᐅ Interior walls on the upper floor: lightweight construction instead of masonry?
Created on: 22 Feb 2014 17:19
K
Kazazi
Hello dear forum community,
I have read several times here that for the construction of non-load-bearing partition walls, especially in the attic, lightweight construction is recommended instead of masonry, as it can actually provide better sound insulation than masonry walls, contrary to common belief.
What I haven’t been able to find right away, however, is information on the exact specifications of such walls (material, thickness, construction). Who can help with this?
We would like to request an alternative quote for this; the standard currently still includes masonry walls.
Thank you very much,
Kazazi
I have read several times here that for the construction of non-load-bearing partition walls, especially in the attic, lightweight construction is recommended instead of masonry, as it can actually provide better sound insulation than masonry walls, contrary to common belief.
What I haven’t been able to find right away, however, is information on the exact specifications of such walls (material, thickness, construction). Who can help with this?
We would like to request an alternative quote for this; the standard currently still includes masonry walls.
Thank you very much,
Kazazi
B
Bauexperte10 Mar 2014 10:47Hello,
The issue in attic spaces is usually sound insulation between bedrooms, and this cannot be achieved with very thin materials—even if they are solid. Only calcium silicate bricks are an exception here, but most bricks cannot handle mixed materials well. So the choice is either full calcium silicate bricks plus external thermal insulation composite system (ETICS) or clinker bricks or another type of brick, and in the attic drywall or gypsum boards if the homeowner is sensitive to noise.
Regards, Bauexperte
Kurt1985 schrieb:Of course, especially with 17.5 cm (7 inches) walls and thinner. Installing drywall instead of masonry is more labor-intensive, which is why this type of interior finishing tends to be somewhat more expensive compared to masonry.
I’m not a big fan of drywall and prefer masonry walls. It’s more work but also more solid.
The issue in attic spaces is usually sound insulation between bedrooms, and this cannot be achieved with very thin materials—even if they are solid. Only calcium silicate bricks are an exception here, but most bricks cannot handle mixed materials well. So the choice is either full calcium silicate bricks plus external thermal insulation composite system (ETICS) or clinker bricks or another type of brick, and in the attic drywall or gypsum boards if the homeowner is sensitive to noise.
Kurt1985 schrieb:You need a special anchor for each type of brick; neither calcium silicate bricks, hollow bricks, expanded clay, nor aerated concrete will hold anything beyond a picture without a specific mounting system.
It’s also easier to mount things there than on drywall.
Regards, Bauexperte
A small tip: Use Fermacell gypsum fiberboards, double-layered, with insulation (Isover Acoustic) in between. The advantage is that they can be easily dismantled during future renovations, are slim, and simple to install—just prime and paint, and you’re done. Alternatively, I would choose an 11.5 cm (4.5 inches) thick solid or hollow brick wall, depending on structural requirements. However, this is more labor-intensive to build and requires plastering on both sides. Gypsum boards, expanded clay, or bricks are also possible options.
Best regards
Best regards
N
Nordlichtchen26 Mar 2014 17:15We have a 6x8 cm (2.4x3.1 inch) KVH stud frame with 12 mm (0.47 inch) OSB on both sides and 12.5 mm (0.49 inch) drywall (gypsum plasterboard) on both sides as well (so much for wall mounting compared to masonry; I don’t need any anchors, don’t have to pre-drill, there’s hardly any dust or mess, and I can screw and nail directly into the wall—our 50-inch flat-screen TV holds perfectly). The inside is filled with 6 cm (2.4 inch) partition board.
The stud frame for the adjacent apartment (basically like a semi-detached house) is doubled, and in the middle I simply placed 5 cm (2 inch) concrete slabs as mass, which works great too. Compared to my neighbor’s house, built the same year with aerated concrete and interior walls made of sand-lime bricks, this is no better.
The stud frame for the adjacent apartment (basically like a semi-detached house) is doubled, and in the middle I simply placed 5 cm (2 inch) concrete slabs as mass, which works great too. Compared to my neighbor’s house, built the same year with aerated concrete and interior walls made of sand-lime bricks, this is no better.
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