ᐅ How do I build a PAX wardrobe as a room divider?

Hello everyone,

I am planning to use an IKEA Pax wardrobe as a room divider in my living room, as the space is open and relatively large. However, I have some questions about the assembly and stability, especially since the furniture will not be placed against a wall but will stand freely in the middle of the room: What measures do I need to take to ensure the wardrobe is stable and won’t tip over? Are there any special fittings or tips to make the Pax stable as a room divider?

I am also curious whether it is advisable to install the back panel completely or only partially, and how to finish the sides as neatly and professionally as possible when the back is visible in the room.

What modular options does Pax offer to adjust the depth or width of the room divider flexibly? Can multiple units be connected, and what is the best way to do this?

I appreciate any tips or experiences you can share to help with this project!

Hello Ximoleo,

It's great that you are already considering stability, which is essential for a free-standing PAX wardrobe! Generally, PAX systems are designed to be attached to walls, as their height and material alone do not provide much resistance to tipping.

– To stabilize the unit in the room, it is definitely recommended to use the included wall mounts—or depending on the situation, securing it to the ceiling.
– If you want to keep it completely free-standing, connecting the PAX modules to each other can help create a wider, more stable construction.
– The back panel significantly strengthens the structure and should not be omitted. Alternatively, there are metal back panels available, which are somewhat sturdier.
– For a clean finish on the sides without a visible back, it is advisable to use matching trims or side panels from IKEA, or custom-made wooden solutions.

Regarding connecting the units: IKEA provides connectors that allow you to screw multiple PAX wardrobes together. This also increases stability and makes the room divider more even.

If you need further details, for example about the exact connectors or stability solutions, I can provide them. I also recommend checking your floor thoroughly before assembly—uneven floors can additionally affect stability.

Good luck with your project!

Matthewt48 schrieb:

The back panel significantly stabilizes the structure and should not be omitted.

This is an important point. A solid attachment of the back panel is even more critical for freestanding units than for cabinets placed against a wall.

Regarding room dividers, I recommend the following approach:

- Use the original IKEA connectors to securely join multiple PAX units together.
- Always install the back panels fully and tension them tightly; this will strengthen the structure laterally.
- If possible, place the cabinet on a level, solid surface and check the alignment with a spirit level.
- For the side coverings, use appropriate side panels or moldings to avoid visible raw edges.

There is also a variation: instead of a wood veneer back panel, you can optionally install a reinforced metal back panel, which IKEA offers separately. This noticeably increases stability.

Another consideration would be combining this with floor or ceiling anchors, in case tipping cannot be reliably prevented by other means.

In summary: install the back panel, connect the modules, use corner brackets, and neatly cover the sides. All together, this creates a robust freestanding solution.

Hey Ximoleo,

I set up exactly this kind of PAX as a room divider and can share some experience with you! 🙂

First of all: Great idea to place the furniture in the middle of the room! It really makes the space feel cozy and modern.

I connected several PAX units side by side – this makes the room divider wide and stable. I used the original IKEA connectors to join the cabinets, which hold very securely.

I installed the full back panel, no half measures, otherwise it wobbles too much. If you want it to look nicer, you can decorate the back with a foil or even wallpaper – that way, it doesn’t just look like a back panel, but a real design feature!

Regarding the side panels: The supplied IKEA side pieces are more than enough if you use the unit on both sides, as a room divider. The sides then stand freely, giving a neat, finished look!

A little tip: If you combine multiple cabinets, it’s worth having doors open on one side for passage and keeping closed surfaces on the other side – this creates variety and functionality!

So: don’t be intimidated, it works really well and adds a lot to the living atmosphere.

Have fun putting it together!

bauku schrieb:

I connected several PAX units side by side – this makes the room divider really wide and stable.

That is exactly the right approach. Just as a reminder: if the room divider is going to be very tall, you should not underestimate the weight. In that case, make sure the upper connecting pieces are securely fixed and, if necessary, fastened with additional brackets.

AUSTINREN schrieb:

For the side panels, suitable side trims or moldings should be used to avoid exposed edges.

That really makes a big difference visually, especially if the divider is accessible from both sides. In some cases, small base moldings around the bottom can also help to make the room divider more stable and give it a clean finish.

Regarding your question, Ximoleo, about whether to attach the back panel partially or fully: fully installing the back panel is definitely preferable for stability and tipping protection. Partial back panels often don’t provide enough rigidity.

I am happy to help with any further questions about joining or fastening techniques!