ᐅ Garden Wall 105 m² up to 2.5 m High as a Boundary – Which System to Use?
Created on: 1 Oct 2017 14:32
O
odw-bauen
Hello everyone,
The title already describes my issue. Our plot needs a perimeter wall along a length of 75m (82 yards) to compensate for the slope of the land. On average, the height is around 1.2 to 1.4m (4 to 4.5 feet), with a maximum of 2.5m (8 feet) at the highest point. Terracing could be an option here to reduce the height of each individual wall.
Since the garden isn’t very large and I don’t want to lose much space due to a slope, the only solution is ultimately a wall all around. The question is: what should it be made of?
All the wall systems I found from brands like Weserwaben, EHL, Diephaus, or Kreher are concrete hollow blocks that are quite limited in maximum allowable height. Unfortunately, they are also expensive. I would prefer the opposite. I’m not willing to spend €20,000 just for the bare blocks.
With simple concrete formwork blocks and proper reinforcement, I should be able to achieve the desired height. The price for just the blocks would be about €2,500, which is a significant difference.
Does anyone have ideas, experiences, or suggestions on how to implement this? It should be affordable, durable, and visually reasonably attractive.
Thanks for your help!
The title already describes my issue. Our plot needs a perimeter wall along a length of 75m (82 yards) to compensate for the slope of the land. On average, the height is around 1.2 to 1.4m (4 to 4.5 feet), with a maximum of 2.5m (8 feet) at the highest point. Terracing could be an option here to reduce the height of each individual wall.
Since the garden isn’t very large and I don’t want to lose much space due to a slope, the only solution is ultimately a wall all around. The question is: what should it be made of?
All the wall systems I found from brands like Weserwaben, EHL, Diephaus, or Kreher are concrete hollow blocks that are quite limited in maximum allowable height. Unfortunately, they are also expensive. I would prefer the opposite. I’m not willing to spend €20,000 just for the bare blocks.
With simple concrete formwork blocks and proper reinforcement, I should be able to achieve the desired height. The price for just the blocks would be about €2,500, which is a significant difference.
Does anyone have ideas, experiences, or suggestions on how to implement this? It should be affordable, durable, and visually reasonably attractive.
Thanks for your help!
Bau-Schmidt schrieb:
There is no fence height over 1.8 meters (5 feet 11 inches) allowed without a building permit / planning permission.That is not correct.
It depends on what is specified in the relevant state or regional building regulations.
B
Bau-Schmidt1 Oct 2017 20:27In Lower Saxony and Bremen, it is 180 cm (70.9 inches).
Should the wall be built instead of a slope? Then pressure will be exerted on one side of the foundation soil. Or is that the idea...? Maybe I just don’t understand it correctly.
At the very least, a frost-resistant foundation should be considered.
However, the national building code always applies and must be followed. Therefore, don’t just talk here and dismiss good advice, but listen and think it over as well.
Mobile greetings from on the move
At the very least, a frost-resistant foundation should be considered.
However, the national building code always applies and must be followed. Therefore, don’t just talk here and dismiss good advice, but listen and think it over as well.
Mobile greetings from on the move
O
odw-bauen9 Oct 2017 07:34It is absolutely clear that the state building regulations apply. It is also clear that the project will follow the official approval process if required. However, the building authority will hardly refuse a permit if, for example, the neighbor agrees to take on an easement, if necessary.
I am not interested in discussing approval regulations here.
What interests me is how to build a retaining wall in the most efficient and cost-effective way to support the fill. The plot slopes about 3.5-4.0 meters (11.5-13 feet) diagonally. We have compensated for almost half of the slope by building into the hillside. The other half will be compensated by fill.
Using a slope for this fill is not an option due to the large space it would require. Therefore, a retaining wall is necessary, which I can backfill.
I am not interested in discussing approval regulations here.
What interests me is how to build a retaining wall in the most efficient and cost-effective way to support the fill. The plot slopes about 3.5-4.0 meters (11.5-13 feet) diagonally. We have compensated for almost half of the slope by building into the hillside. The other half will be compensated by fill.
Using a slope for this fill is not an option due to the large space it would require. Therefore, a retaining wall is necessary, which I can backfill.
B
Bau-Schmidt9 Oct 2017 08:51odw-bauen schrieb:
What I’m interested in is how to build a wall in the most efficient and cost-effective way to hold back the fill. Using L-shaped retaining blocks.We have a similar problem, but only up to 1.20m (4 feet) high and over 42m (138 feet) long.
I have tried everything from L-shaped blocks to industrial masonry techniques. The following methods were the most cost-effective:
1. Build and pour your own formwork: You make a formwork yourself over 2 to 3 meters (6.5 to 10 feet) and pour the mixed concrete in, including reinforcement. You can pour the foundation at the same time.
Advantage: It is the cheapest method and you can work in stages.
Disadvantage: It’s a very tedious job to constantly adjust the formwork, and the appearance may not be appealing.
2. Dig a concrete foundation (with reinforcement extending upwards) and then lay formwork blocks on top, which you fill with concrete—of course mixed by yourself.
Advantage: You can work in stages, and the result even looks good.
Disadvantage: The quantities of formwork blocks stay unused for quite a while, and the blocks are not that light.
I have tried everything from L-shaped blocks to industrial masonry techniques. The following methods were the most cost-effective:
1. Build and pour your own formwork: You make a formwork yourself over 2 to 3 meters (6.5 to 10 feet) and pour the mixed concrete in, including reinforcement. You can pour the foundation at the same time.
Advantage: It is the cheapest method and you can work in stages.
Disadvantage: It’s a very tedious job to constantly adjust the formwork, and the appearance may not be appealing.
2. Dig a concrete foundation (with reinforcement extending upwards) and then lay formwork blocks on top, which you fill with concrete—of course mixed by yourself.
Advantage: You can work in stages, and the result even looks good.
Disadvantage: The quantities of formwork blocks stay unused for quite a while, and the blocks are not that light.
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